dripley

I understand what you are saying and I have read this with great interest. Need to do some re reading to get a better grip on it. My problem right now is no time implement any help I would get. When I get this darn CFA open I will be back on an even keel and have some quality time to digest it better. Think I will retain the info better and fix my gremlins. @W-T I agree with what you said above. I have a spare engine harness I partially opened up the other day to find that ground. I am hoping to open up, address any issues and swap into my truck.

The pump should not run contiuosly at key on. What kind of AD do you have and do you know how it it is wired?

Welcome. Great place here to cure what ails the truck. Maybe I can stop by and pick up @JAG1 and we will head that way to visit and try out the gateway.

Most likely not. Mine 6 speed is like that has been since new. The second one too, on both new and old clutches. Sometime she goes right in and others not. Sometimes I will drop into a high gear and then to reverse and it slips right in.

You are welcome. Now if some one had one photo that would make me electrically UN challenged, that would fantastic.

Just to add, your fuel pressure is quite low. You will want to address this issue as well. You want to stay above 14 psi at all times. Your VP will love you for it or it will make your wallet a lot lighter. I do not see your mods. You can go to your profile and fill out your signature and it will appear under every post you make for all to see.

Take the retrun line from the steering box loose at the power steering pump and plug the hole. Stick that line in a bucket or any good receptical. Then make sure the the resevoir is full, crank the truck and work the wheel. Be sure to keep the reservoir full or you will get air in the system. If you do get air in and the fluid foams you will have to let it sit for the air to float out and repeat until it is gone. Do this until until it runs as clean as what you are putting in. And IIRC you dont want to touch the brake pedal while doing this. You can do it this way and see if it helps but it will leave some crud behind. But you will know if the fluid is the problem.

I am thinking he means the one in the upper right corner in this picture. I hope no one cringes at my dusty under hood but I am normally parked in a dusty world at work most of the time. Not that anyone here is anal about cleanliness.

I still have the oe pump on mine at 434k and the only trouble i have ever was with low air pressure or low fluid. Many years ago I lost some fluid, never found a leak, not sure what happened. I replaced what was lost and it never happened again. I know a lot of folks are going to cringe with this, but you could suck out the fluid from the reservoir and fill it back up and see if that helps. I have done this a few times over the years with success. This does NOT take the place of flush by any means and if you put new parts on definitely flush it before replacing the part. This will waste some fluid but you dont want to flush a bunch of dirty fluid thru the brand new part. I don't remember how much fluid you need but 2 or 3 quarts should be a plenty. Return any unopened bottles or keep for later.

I would say you knocked it out alignment or bent something or both. An alignment might fix it. I would still take a look under the truck and check every joint in the steering first. If tie rod ends or track bar or ball joints they want align it. They will tell you what it will cost to fix it so they can. My first time going for an anlignment was at 240k. Though the truck wandered a good bit I never had much uneven tire wear until then. Any way they told what all was wrong and the total would be $900. I thanked and started looking for parts. Ended spending less than the 900 and replaced everything. That included buying a deluxe ball joint press and a few other tools, you can borrow one from most auto parts places. Worked on it for 2 or 3 days. Could be done in less if you stick with it. I take as many beer breaks or whatever as I like. As far as the jack stands, i usually just do one wheel at time for checking the ball joints and wheel bearing. When its time to replace all that steering stuff jack stands are necessary. The only time my steering seems hard to turn is when my tire pressure is low. Got a slow leak in my right front that let's me know that occasionally. I most likely am not seeing the temps as low as you are however. Could be your fluid too. If it has not been changed in a long time you might might be due for flush.

If you dont have jack stands you can do one wheel at a time with your jack. I always leave my wheels on the ground for checking the steering components.

No annoyance for me at all. I am here for the same reason. I have tackled a lot projects on my truck I would not have had it not been for the folks here, I have been reading this thread with great interest, the electrical part is definitely my weak point. So I will keep reading and hopefully gain a little more confidence along with it.

Empty truck + 80 psi = Fred Flintstone tires. I rode around like that for a while cause I thought you were supposed to. That was pretty good beating I got until I learned better

up and down, ball joints. Side to side wheel bearings. Worth checking. Get under the truck and have some one turn the wheel back and forth and look at every thing that moves. You are looking for sloppy or loose joints. Another thing is to sit in the cab and turn the wheel a few inches either way about a quarter turn while looking over the hood. If the track bar is shot you can watch the front of the truck move side to side before the wheels actually start moving. All this with engine running.

I am looking for the MASH unit my self. This makes me wonder if somehow this might be the reason for the crazy temp swings my gauge experiences. They started about 10 years and continue today. I also developed an engine surgeabout 3 years that a new apps sensor did cure. This was accompanied with apps codes and an occasional map code. So one day i was going to put my spare map sensor in. During that process I broke the replacement and re installed the old. It has not surged since and the temp worked perfect for a couples then went back to its old swing self. It seems my issues kind of wander around. I am not trying to turn this into a solving my problem thread. That ismfor another thread. I have mostly thought my issues are electronic in nature rather than mechanical.

Never seen that high on my truck. I think I will break 70k on these though they have had a lot of non towing highway miles. Time will tell.

The best two I have run have been Micheline LTX I think, came oh the truck new, and the current ones, Cooper ATP's. Both about 65k and great service from them. The Michelines have gotten to pricey for me at near $1200 a set. The Coopers are running me about $900. No where near what @Mopar1973Man is paying for the ones he is using. MM how many miles do you think you will get?

Grab a NASCAR tire one day. I swear I could poke my finger thru one. Amazingly thin.

I have a spare harness I need to do this to. Bought it a while back and have not attempted to open much of it. Now all I need is some time. Aint getting much of that lately. To be a D or not a D that is the question. l leave it to you. Ah ha haaaaaa!!

Aww back to my day. No wonder my old man could not understand it. Cant help but notice the the video has everything but a boy and a man in it. Life was simpler then. Good song of the day though.

I changed my oe's out at 240k. They were pretty worn. Replaced with MOOG at the time and they now have close to 200k on them. I do have a little up and down play in them but no side to side. From what I read about all of the replacements is the upper will have vertical play. Federal Mogul took over Moog not long after I bought mine and that might be the difference. Looking for replacements myself. The carli and other high priced replacements will not be my choice because they do not offer any better warranty than the low cost one's that I have seen. Of course I have not looked in a while either. If I find some new old stock of the oe's I would buy them in heart beat. Just my opinion.

You always have been. Why do we tolerate you. I have been reading all of this and trying to soak it in. A little hard for my electrically uneducated arse to do. I am on the other end of the stick since I lost my ECM within 7 years. Went out in 08 with only 217k on the clock. No one I spoke to then had a clue of what my problem was. This is how I found my way here. By then I had to pull the trigger and get a rebuilt ECM to fix my problem on my own. Bad experience with the rebuilders but I did end up with a new one from Cummins and not a reman. But now I have 215k on that one and hope I dont have to find another. So I will keep reading and learning so hopefully mine will not fail again. Currently my grids have been disconnected for the past 2.5 years.

Welcome.

I have the DAP 50's in mine right now. Very similar. I think either are good. I think they their own RV275's. Might be wrong though just ask them. If you get both do the injectors first then drive it a little and you can see the difference they make alone. Then add the tuner. Which tuner are you looking at? Should have read you're sig a little closer. I see what you have coming.

Mine held just fine with a 75hp banks tuner put on at 100k. Pulled a 5th wheel at about 14k with it too. Added some RV275's at about 175k and kept on going. That stock one lasted another 75k or so more. So i would say there should be no problem.