dripley

Is the truck drivable with the quad disconnected?

And to add the wire was rated SAE J1127 and temp rated to 105*c.

Rock auto Remy starter 120 bucks. Parts houses around here want 190 bucks for the same starter. The last Remy lasted 6+ years. Ordered it on Thursday before Xmas and it got here on Saturday. Cant believe that with Xmas and all. Sure was nice hearing it bust off as soon as you hit the key.

I am with you on that. When mine blew the only reason they asked as many questions as they did was because all the info I needed to answer them was 200 miles away. All in all it was a very good customer service experience.

Is your starter up to par? Does it seem to spin slower than in the past? If it is spinning the engine good and taking longer, fuel is a good place to start. Mine has been starting slower but my stater was also spinning slower. Almost did not start this morning. Had new one by my chair and stuck it on today.

The pump I blew happened 3 years ago or so. I just popped a fuse today. They replaced that with very few questions asked. The pressure was a little wonky when I replaced the fuse but settled in after about 20 seconds and all is good so far. I will have to keep an eye on it. If this goes the warranty still better cover it. As far as the relay goes, I will check that out tomorrow. Too many things to remember sometimes.

I never had my daddy do much looking under the hood. Just was not his cup of tea, even though his father was the engineer at the textile plant. But trust me he found enough things about me to make his blood boil. I got mine off of amazon I believe. As far as solder versus crimp, mine seem to be working good so I guess I am living with it for now.

Did the same thing about 3 months ago with 2/0 welding cable. I soldered mine though, no crimper.

The few times I have adjusted mine the larger nut has not turned. I have just loosened the smaller jam nut and set the pressure the re tightened the jam nut. Never had an issue with it. I must be lucky, all the bad stories I have heard about quick disconnects and now the pressure adjustment. Just never had problems with either. I did blow pump motor though and today I blew a fuse on the pump. I hope I am not in for so pay back now.

That picture helps a lot and @AH64ID is right. You loosen the smaller nut and turn the shaft with a screw driver. I have the same adjuster on my AD.

Not the expert by any means but I dont see how you could adjust properly without it being connected to the VP.

I know this is a long shot but I found that part number listed for a Fiat also. Strange thing is they have an alternate part number that matches an alternate I saw on one of the Mopar parts places. I could never pull up a picture of the part on the Fiat site. https://www.fiatpartswebstore.com/products/FIAT/500L/LEVER-AC-Vent-Defrost-Door/12028151/04720348.html It also says lever in the description but a long shot at best.

I will plug in when I can, and use a timer set foran hour before I leave. Raises the temp on the engineabout 50*. More so for the quick warmup.

That is exactly how mine acts.

If i crank mine with the vp disabled I see low fluctuating pressure. I was under the impression the ECM cycled the lift pump power on and off quickly to reduce the pressure for cranking. I even think I have heard the relay clicking on and off before, though my ears are not the best. On a stock lift pump there is no relay so 50% voltage would lower the pressure.

I got the* Stant 13479 for a 12v. It does not have the jiggle pin or pins. I seemed to have gotten them both ways over the years. I a going to stick it in later and see what it does around town before hitting the highway with it.

Harbor Freight has a large selection of removal tools. Dont know which are best since I have tried any of them.

I should expand on my previous statement on the Cummins 180 I had. My temps were swinging with and with out the Cummins. Mine was definitely not the t stat.

It's all good. Takes me back to the days of "wood and screamin beavers" if you know what I mean.

The mirror switch is just connected to the door panel. All you need to do is disconnect the wire one you get the panel open far enough. At least thats how mounted mine. Mine door panels still seem very flexable to me. Never had to pull the whole thing tough.

My Banks came that way on the elbow. Just never thought of putting one there. Live and learn.

They could a been my baby brother!!! I always feel the love here even when my kin are being smashed. Another Merry Christmas to you all.

One of the last things I bought from Cummins was a 180* t stat. They swore thats what came on my truck. $80 IIRC no fries, no toy. Only difference between it and the others. it ran 10* colder.

@JAG1 has a point. The only way to know is to pull the panel and see whats going on inside. Cant me much to it.

I dropped the tank, not hard to do. A lot of folks tilt the bed, sounds easy to do too. Never done that so I can't compare. I have a5th wheel hitch and decided to just drop the tank. I do all my work in a gravel drive also. I have a couple of foam mats like you use on a shop floor i lay on. A piece of plywood will work also. I have pulled my NV5600 twice using the plywood method. It works but a concrete floor would be nicer. If you are doing a draw straw outside the bsket/module there might not be any reason to remove the basket, don't know for sure. Vulcan sells this module under the name "Liberty tank module" I believe. Eric could tell you if it is the same. Just more money to spend. With what you are considering doig a good look at the basket would be a good thing to do. It might be on its last leg from age. Your fuel level sender is part of it also.