dripley

Maybe already asked, but is the starter clicking when try and start it during the issue?

You can swap your horn relay for the fuel system relay and see ifm that works. If not swap it for the starter relay and see if that works. You could eliminate those as an issue anyway. I know asked earlier but is your WTS light coming during the issue?

For now i would clean up the connection and make sure you seat it good to see if that's the problem. I know those quick disconnects have a bad rep but mine have been in use for 6 plus years and they are still working fine.

I am sticking with the needle valve just because it works, not because of any fear of the sintered metal. It has been around for a long time.

That's good view. Lots of tiny particles smashed together.

It is sintered metal, not stone. Sintering is the process by which it is made. The vent on my EB is made from it. Google sintered metal.

Maybe I will shove a rock in mine. Plenty of those laying around here.

It definitely will damage it. My needle valve did come from Vulcan. Ordered it when I got the big line kit. The valve is barely cracked open and it dampens the pulses from the VP well. But the seal on the valve is about shot on mine and I need to address that pretty soon.

3 open lines will put out a fair amount of fuel even just cranking. Does not sound like it is getting up there. You might bump the starter again and make sure the fuel is still getting to the pump. Might have been air bubble still in the line. Blue Chip Diesel has the hot wire VP44 info that @Me78569 mentions.

Just a needle valve on mine. Bumped it open the other day when my injector line blew. That thing was bouncing back and forth 20 psi ridiculously fast. It was pretty much a blur.

Then i guess you have to follow the water.

The water should be steaming if straight out of the block and at temp.

If it is that noticeable on the a arm follow the trail up and see.

I understand what you are saying, the payments are no fun. But I would buy a new one before I tried to buy one with 30k on it, the new ones are cheaper. At least what I have looked at over the years. @Me78569 already got almost 10k on the sticker. I bought mine new and almost 16.5 years later I am still driving it a d it has been very dependable and exceeded my expectations. I do not disagree with paying cash if you have it, it is the way to go.

Sorry for the misunderstanding. @IBMobile has it lined out pretty good above. I think I would rather get hit in the head with a drive shaft than have to do what he talks about but he has it lined out where i could mostly do what he says and could not give any better advice. Though I do believe if it happened again I would swap the starter relay for the horn relay and see if that worked first especially if you are by yourself. Sorry IB, had to drop some Ripley electrical advice in there.

You mean the starter will not turn the engine over?

That is one part of the new truck thing I am not jealous of. I rember driving mine off brand spanking new and how cool that was. After the 12th payment and only 60 more to go, it soaked in pretty hard.

Funky fuel system relay maybe? Next time it does it swap the horn relay for the fuel sytem relay. Might say fuel pump relay, can't remember. Matter of fact you could go a head and do it and see if it does it again. Just using my powrrs of guesstamation here.

If I have this right you are trying to turn this back into a 4th gen truck thread from a 2nd gen clutch thread. What's this place coming to? On a different note I am enjoying the thread and still jealous.

Is your WTS light coming on at key on?

I have a Southbend OFE. It holds great but is not as smooth as the oe clutch. I miss that but don't want to be slipping one. I have more power than I did then. They also have an OHD which I will consider if I wear this one out. OFE is one organic and one feramic facing. The one I bought. OHD is both organic facings. The one I would consider. @AH64ID and his father have some experience with the OHD Google south bend clutch and see what they have.

I changed mine out around 240k because it was in a shop for a few days and was surprised at how friction material was left. Not sure how far it would have gone.

It's a process of elimination. The fuel system is pretty simple except for the VP and it's internals. I like you dont think it's an injector but it could any connection in the system. It seems 9 times out of 10 the issue lies in what you worked on. It does for me any how.

That's pretty much it, providing the problem is in the injector.

Mine had a little over 400k on the oe. The ac line on the passanger lower side had cut into it. I had the radiator and intercooler out to reseal the front of the motor and just replaced them all. Kept the old ones for an emergency. Did not seem to be anything wrong with them.