dripley

There gonna stack me and @JAG1 on either side of that PBY one day. Though it has a pretty good head start, they were flying those in the 30's.

Have not seen that with mine.

Stock and happy with it.

Mine is the same way. They do make a pushlock coupling to join 2 pieces of hose together.

The 1693 code itself does not condemn anything. It is telling you there is another code in the other computer.

I have heard that term many times thru my life and for the past 35 years rented many under the name shooting boom forklift. They will accomplish a mountain of work.

Curious about the inline filter. Does the WS on the FASS not serve as a prefilter for the pump?

What is the speed limited to on manuals? I have had mine up 105 and it never tried the cut out.

Mine is still rock solid in both directions. Scares me silly like a hose clamp is going to fly into it from Idaho.

I figure the heat from the turbo and maybe the exhaust is what cooked the head unit on my EB. So maybe a worthwhile investment. So I hope no BS is involved.

What does a paint job like that cost, if you don't mind me asking? That way I can find the proper place on my dream list for it.

Well that sucks.

How so? I never had to work on the oe basket only the in tank pump version.

Might want make sure it is clean too. If it stops up it will cause fuel delivery problems also.

The air leaks that cause this are usually on the high pressure side or the fuel return line letting air into the system, while the engine is off, causing a loss of prime which in turn causes hard starts. These are usually visible fuel leaks while the engine is running. The air I believe you are looking for is being sucked in by the pump while the engine is running. It is easy to suck the air in but not so easy for the fuel leak out when the engine is off and the fuel is not under pressure. Really 2 different animals. I am lucky, I still have the quick disconnects on mine. They have worked fine the 7 years I have had them. I am in a small minority though. They will go if I start having problems with them however.

Nice looking job.

Did you ever determine whether that you did have air getting into the system? Neither way will stop air infiltration if it is getting in after the fuel tank. I personally would not cut a hole in the bottom of my fuel tank.

Mine in NC was $160 with it registered for 10k. That includes property on it also and I do not how much that is this year. I will know when the wife gets my tag.

Mine is 12 5/16". Measured from the outside of the spring from the lip of the lower cup to the lip of the upper cup.

Never could lock mine until this last time the lights came. Flat spotted all 4 tires that were fairly new, 20k on them maybe. They drove kinda funny under 20 mph for a good while. All better now. The ps pump does supply boost to the brakes, could be the culprit but I would not know.

I went back out and looked at the blocks and it looks like 2 blocks separated by a spacer. Would require some cleaning to know for sure. To cold and damp for that today. They do look different than the than @RipnRam99 lower block. Mine have an indentation that runs vertical. You can see what I think is a spacer between them in the first picture but not second. Looks like you good advice Rip. I'll guit talking about blocks.

The factory studs are actually bolts and a lot cheaper. Nothing wrong with them unless you plan to add a lot power. That would help explain some of the lower cost.

You can. Think you need the bell housing and you have to modify the drive shaft. Clutch disc might not match the input shaft on the 5 speed. Not sure on the last one, but things to look for.

Mine sits on 2 equal blocks under the bottom spring on each side. I never considered that one to be an overload. I always considered the upper spring the overload spring.

That pdf and me not being a tranny guy convinced me to look. At that time I was also hearing about a lot of cheap Chinese hard parts on the market and original NVparts were very hard to come by not to mention pricey.