dripley

Of course now that you have said all of the above, I check the weather at home this weekend. 1/2" of rain on Saturday and a 55* high on Sunday with clouds and wind. I think you did this on purpose ya scallywag.

I have seen some after market breathers installed in few valve covers, but would not know where the best place to buy one is nor how they were installed.

Not sure how far I will get. I have a spare engine wiring harness that I opened enough to see the sensor ground splice at the ECM . Figured I would start with those since my sensors are having tough time. Then work may way to the others unless I am missing something. This was the portion of the harness I grabbed and wiggled. Your input is welcome.

A Fel pro is only $15 and a Mahle is less than $10 on rock auto. Of course if you need it today that would rule them. But if you have time there are probably more to be found on the interweb.

As cheap as they are I think I would put a new one on for peace of mind.

I was going to revive an old thread on my issues but it seems ther are more than one. So I will give the Readers Digest version. About 4years ago I started having engine surging problems. It would surge about 3% to 5% and was annoying and would set a couple of apps codes. But the problem got worse and would surge upwards of 14%. When it would go this far it would soon trip an apps code and would dead pedal. Always recovered, though it would take a few minutes. So I broke down and made my electrically challenged arse do some diagnostics on the apps and everything pointed to the sensor being bad. I bought a cheap one off of EBay installed and sure enough no surging. Ran that one a week or so and ordered a new Timbo. Installed it and bam right to surging again. Reinstalled the cheap no surging but now I have a p0222 code that won't go away. Cleared multiple times and it always came back immediately. And every so often I would get a MAP sensor code. I was not sure if the cheap apps was hurting anything so I put the Timbo back in Fast forward some and I decided to swap the MAP sensor with the spare I had to see if that was part of the problem. Well i broke that one and just had to stick the old one back in. I had to hit the road to go back to work and no surging and it has yet to surge since. The only I messed with was the MAP wiring harness, though I did have my hand shoved in around the ECM wiring harness at the ECM. Now on the trip back to Maryland I pick up another issue. CEL comes on with a p237 code and the engine is defuled and I can only accelerate at about 40 maybe 50%. Stayed that way for several miles then went back to normal. But it kept doing this on and off sporadically. This did morph itself into bouncing in and out of the defuel mode when ever I put much more than 40% throttle to the engine. No more codes either. I also noticed that whenever this happens the Scan Gauge is loosing the MAP signal. Fast forward to this week and I have the no start issue. I have messed with that for 3 days and after swapping the fuses around it has worked fine. One thing I did while messing with it Tuesday was grab the engine wiring harness near the ECM. I gave it good squeeze and moved back and forth what little it would move. Drove back to the motel and it ran like a scalded dog. No jumping in and out of the defuel mode and for now she is back to normal. My conclusion is that the grounds in the engine wiring harness that @W-T wrote about are most likely the cause of the multiple issues I have experienced over the past years. So i am going to take an extra day this weekend and see how many of them I can redo.

My 02 has a sticker on the glove box door that shows my axles and gear ratio. You can get on Mr. Google and find the build sheet for your truck using the VIN # and that will tell. I just dont remember how I looked mine. It has been a while.

Makes me wonder just how noisy a 2nd gen is with a noisy clutch. With my hearing I might 100% deaf right now instead 50%.

That would make a big difference. The new is definitely quiet.

My single is great in the drive thru's, it's the Cummins that makes me shut it down to talk the order taker. I cant hear them and they cant hear me with it running.

I need a new cholesterol filter, about a one micron ought a do.

I have a SB ofe in at the moment. Prior to that I had a Valair organic clutch that I never liked due to the grabiness of that clutch. Since then I have seen a couple members here install the same clutch and they love it. That was not the experience I had with the same clutch. I like the OFE but it is still a touch grabby on launch but it holds like an ox. I would still like to find the smoothness of the oe clutch and I believe the OHD is the way I will try next. I had no trouble with the OE clutch, 75hp tuner and rv275's. This makes me lean toward the OHD even with the Comp I am running now. Just my opinion.

Try to get a grip on what you have. The above advice is good, but what is on your truck now for us to know where to help you take into the future. Do you now anything about the trucks history?

Rock auto will sell you the same brand name products as anyone. Just becomes a matter of where you can get the better price. Their shipping is good to the point that I usually get things quicker than they advertise, though occasionally that does not happen as with anyone else. I have received core credits quickly after their receipt of the cores providing the shipper gets them there promptly. If you have questions call them and the will answer them. I have had no issues with them. As far as getting heavier duty springs than what came on the truck I would not do it unless you plan on carrying the extra load the majority of the time or the truck will beat on you more than normal. Of course if you plan on carrying that load by all means beef it up. You wont know until you are empty and just riding around town. The air bags you are interested in will take up the slack that the oe springs lack when you are loaded.

It would appear that it has had a good life at 200k.

You could dose it up with 2 cycle oil and might help it for a little while. It wont fix the damage but might breath a little life into it until you replace it.

Personal or vehicle? Computer that is.

Mine has had the stock rake all its life. When I put my 5th wheel on it sits level. Thats with right at 6k on the rear axle. It just sets on the overloads nicely. I, like you, dont like the rear squatted. I have always liked the look of the stock rake on 3/4 and 1 ton trucks.

Careful now, us folks from Carolina don't like it either. The springs I saw on Rock Auto are about the cheapest. If You are hauling heavy loads and have busted rear spring, it's time for 4 new ones. I could not tell where to buy them.

My 02 has a sticker in the glove box with the rear end type and gears on it. Other info also.

Mine are 265 75 16. Got to be a lift on @Waydin_Stewart truck or my truck has sagged something fierce, just equally.

Would you have to replace four? I believe @AH64ID means front and rear to match up. I would defer to @AH64ID for the need on that. I measured mine and they are only 9" fender to tire. Either mine have sagged equally or you have lift kit. Unless the 98 springs are taller than my 02 is. You would be better off replacing at least the front together. At less than 100 bucks for the pair it would be a no brainer for me. I would not want fight one of a junker compared to the cost of new ones. Just my opinion.

The bolts on the control arms are for the caster adjustment and part of a complete alignment and do not affect ride height. Your springs are the problem. Unless something is bent like @AH64ID mentions. A quick look at Rock Auto shows front springs that meet or for less than less than 100 bucks by more than one manufacturer.

Just shy of 2.5 years ago. Got near 65k on it.

I had a good bit of the roll over noise with the Valair I had before the OFE and that noise is non existent with the OFE. I do like the holding power of the OFE but would like to get the smoothness of the oe back. Good to see someone with some experience with the OHD. I was lacking that when I was in the market for a clutch. Do you know whether it will work on the OFE flywheel?