dripley

You are correct. The 150 does not have the small inlet screen.

Technicalities, always with the technicalities. I stand somewhat corrected.

My AD II 165 has no screen and neither should the 150. It has a return just like the 150 should and 2 filters. The Raptor does have the screen, no filters, and no return line. 2 different systems. If it has gotten noisy it may sucking in air. You might check and see if you lost the seal between the pump and the filter head. I am assuming that's all you had to mess with to install the new pump. I had to put a new on mine about 3 years ago and dont remember how it sealed. If you had to remove any lines double check them too.

I got thick hide @MnTom. Thats a funny one right there.

Welcome. That is quite a modification.

I have not. And with some of the prices I have seen I started looking on line and lucked into front seats cheap. My back seat is fine. I would like leather but for the money I would rather spend it else where.

Nunhttps://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/ Here is a list of DTC s with diagnostics. I have the fly wire also. I believe the PCM is involved also. I believe it sends the speed signal to the ECM for to regulate the cruise. I do not know this for sure though. The sensors share a common ground in the engine wiring harness near the ECM connector. Not sure how the 5v power supply works. I do know this, we are in an area that I am not good with. Electronics is my weak spot. I am learning but have a long way to go. Hopefully folks more versed in this than I can add to this.

I would swap it back and see if it acts the same as before on his. Could be a bad joint in the ECM that got knocked in place during the swap. When mine went I would get different codes every time I read them.

Wide Open Throttle.

You learned cashinese, the powerful language.

Learn to speak Chinese, it might help. I ordered a cheap apps sensor off of EBay. All the literature on and in the packageing was in Chinese. Still just took a week or so to get it.

Are you still using the oe fuel lines? That will cause a pretty good drop in pressure. The big line kit won't help if you are pushing fuel thru the stock lines. Up grade all of your lines and that will help. How much, hard to say until you do it. Little to no smoke is a good thing.

I don't like the word long. I don't see me doing studs either.

The DD is going to come up. Folks told me I needed it with just the rv's and a Comp. I have never slipped the OFE even on 5X5 with foot to the floor.

I will appreciate all the help I can get. Like I said it has been a while. Now all I need is the time to do it. There is a still the machine shop in town that did the machine work for me 40 years ago. I think they still have a good rep. There is also a diesel performance shop with a machine shop that I am going to try and get by soon and check them out.

Is your clutch you have now the original? If so how many miles? Has it slipped with the 75's in it? if it does slip that is not an instant condemnation for it. You can drive it and adjust the power thru it with your right foot until you can replace it. Had to do that with my last clutch for quite a while until i could replace it. That is not towing by the way. Now if your existing clutch is on its last leg and slips that could be a different story. A lot a variables in play on this. A lot folks run the SB and some other run the Valair after adding power. I had a bad experience with the Valair but others have had great luck with them. I am pretty sure my issues were install related however. I have a SB OFE in mine now and like it. It is a touch grabby though as you can find stronger clutches. Will probably go with the OHD when this goes. I swaped out my original at 240k and surprisingly it still had some life left in it. You can replace it your self if you are handy with the wrenches. Just bare in mind if your are doing in the gravel driveway like I have, that adds a different aspect to it. The tranny weighs somewhere around 400 pounds and everything else is heavy in its own right. Helping hands will be a nessecity. I had my SB installed at local shop here at home for $400. They did a good job too. I have pulled my 6 speed twice and had help but for $400 I passed this last time. As far as what clutch to get that all depends on how far you go with your power. Only you know what that will be. I am not sure you have truly made your mind up. When you know that call SB or Valair or who ever you want to talk with and let them help. Just be careful when someone starts talking Dual Disk. thats another animal.

Watching with great interest. I am going to be in the same boat in the near future. Got a little water weeping at the right front corner of the head. Have not pulled a head in over 40 years. Damn the butter full speed ahead!!

Sounds like the electrical gods are going to make me pay a price to drive this truck 20 plus years. Not that I would ever something made in China. It did just happen to be the only one available same day at the time.

Let's hope that's not it. I just replaced that a week ago, but I will give it try if that happens again. Seems I am getting an electrical education like it or not.

Welcome. Looks much without the rust. Where did you get the Cummins emblem for the grill?

I just had a new issue and not sure if it is related to the grounds we have been discussing. Jumped in the truck this am fired it off and all is normal. Stopped and bought coffee, fired it off again and drove off. That's when I noticed the speedo is not working and the radio is dead. Turn signals not working and the brake light is flashing. My brake and abs light have been on for a while but constant, first time I have seen it blink in a while. Everything else on the dash is fine. Shut the truck down and fired it back off and all is back to normal or as normal as my truck is. The only code I have is a p500. Funny thing is it only shows up with the key trick and not my scan gauge. I can see the p500 and the speedo relationship, but why the non working radio, turn signals and the flashing brake light? Grounds maybe to blame for this too?

I used some SIDR polyethylene well pipe to run it down. The fittings slip into the pipe and it was easy to use. Whether it holds up to the oil is yet to be seen. I only did this about 4 months ago. It is available Home Depot or Lowes and i would think any other building supply. I just hope it holds up.

The ground wire that runs back to the PCM goes thru a y splice then a plugin joint connector and to one more splice that is necessary. I woul go back to that splice with a new wire, no splices or joints, for a cleaner connection to the batterry. You would not have to do this. You can just leave the wire as is and tape the y splice after you cut the other ground, from the drivers side, loose.

It seems to me cutting the remaing grounds to as few joints as possible would be best. At least that will be my plan of attack.