dripley

Sorry to hear. If you could find some we would have a good start on a Low country boil. Course you still need some shrimp and crab and last time I checked they dont live in corn fields.

Looks like we will have a good view but we are only getting about 85% here in Maryland.

I would have to agree with @Dieselfuture. Something has to be loose. Get the wheels off and double check. No need to pull the bearings just check all the bolts.

Been on the road from NC back to Maryland. Hope yall are having a good time, wish I was there. Be sure and tell @JAG1 and @IBMobile I said howdy. The potatoes are hiding under the corn. They do that alot down this way. They are Confederate potatoes.

Good to hear. Hope they serve you well.

Thats what they came with and why I was looking for new old ones. They were sealed also, upper and lower. Not sure how different they are today though the ones I linked only the lowers are sealed. I will use Spicer for my next change.

Mine hydro boost did not stat leaking till around 400k. Cant help but think that the exhaust brake helps with that. I have only had mine for maybe 150k but @Mopar1973Man has had his for most all of his miles. What say you Mikey?

Does your FSM say the 96 is ok to run E-85? Not sure the wife 98 Saturn is set up for it. Going to have to look into that iif they up the content of ethanol any higher the 10%.

I think fuel would be fine. Diesel has a pretty good shelf life. If you have any doubt pour some in a jar and see what if anything strange settles out of it. As far as the filters and the fuel, I might change them out early if I saw any pressure drop. It cant hurt to change them out early however, for peace of mind. You could open them up and have a good look at them.

I know i bought bigger that the 3.5 and was thinking four but I bought a good while back. I also did not have a problem getting them on. No stretching or heating. Lighty snug was all.

I put MOOG on mine about 170k ago and they are showing some wear now. Heard nothing good about them not long after I installed them but they have held up well. Maybe I got ones made before Federal Mogul bought them out, I dont know. After all I have heard I am a little leery of them now. I would like to find so new old stock OEM's. Mine held up for over 200k. If not I will probably try these http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p3264_dana_spicer_708047_ball_joint_set_for_2000_to_2002_dodge_ram.html

What is the the tool leaning up on the steering box?

I wonder how hard they are to reseal? The kits are only 10 bucks or so.

I guess it could be possible but dont really know that for sure. I just had my inter cooler out of the truck a few weeks ago and found no water in it at all. You might have a leak somewhere. Pressurize it and be sure. I am curious as to the size you came up with on the lower boot. No offense taken on measuring for yourself, pretty sure that is what I did because I heard more than one size before I ordered mine.

You thinking your pump is causing the fluid to be hot? I was thinking of changing mine out when I reseal the vacuum pump just because it is the OEM and got 415k on it. Do you change the reservoir too? I see rebuilt pumps are about $30 cheaper without the reservoir.

Appreciate the compliment but that is @JAG1 at the cabin. This is me with my children and the MIL Of course it would not be complete without a picture of my younger days. life sure was simpler in those days.

Hmmmm. I will have to check mine after a good drive and see how different it might be. Mine is hot mostly from idling and a very short drive.

I dont have any way to check the actual temp, but after idling alot and a very short drive I cannot hold them with my finger tips for more than a second or 2. I can hold the return the longest.

I think @TFaoro was dead on. I like the pants he is almost wearing, very stylish.

What is the name and address of this place?

I think I am pretty committed to doing this. I went to Pirate Jacks and looked at their kit. I then clicked on the instructions and it linked me to a detailed thread on how to do it. Wouldn't you know that the pictures were also hijacked by Photo Bucket.

Yes. The ECM needs it to control the VP. Someone else would have to explain that better than me. Mine has gone into limp mode when the ECM does not see it.

Trying to figure out what you are doing with the C clamp. Since mine is still mounted I cant see the back side and when I feel back maybe there is a plug of some sort maybe? Does the accumulator piston need to come out?

That is pretty much what I read on the inter web. One fella said he was able to adjust the bracket holding the brake light switch to make up for the shorter rod. I have not looked up there to even see how its mounted. It is the uh oh moment when I realize i either screwed something up or have to have another piece or part that worries me.

I actually found this write up on it on line. Complete with pictures that are being held hostage by Photo Bucket.It was inspirational but not visual.