dripley

Coupling nuts = rod couplings or a 1" long or so nut I presume.

I have the silicone intake on mine also. Bought them a good time back and just installed them about a month ago. Thy appeared comparable to the stock ones. 32 psi is the max mines sees. Have had no issues with them. I keep thinking that the reducers I bought were bigger than 3 x 3.5. I did not have to stretch them like @Me78569 said he had to. Slipped on with just a little effort. It would not hurt to measure to be sure. I have 4" stuck in my head, of course I bought mine long ago. A question for you all. Do the T bolt clamps need to be spring loaded? I see them both ways and one of mine is almost shot.To @903Dodge, that might be your issue as well. Seems to me the boot should not slip off if the clamp is holding like it should.

Welcome, by the way. Could not add anything to what Mike told you.

Looks like my plumbing permit is being issued Friday and I am going to be wide open from here to the finish. No way I will make it unless someone knows Scotty and can use his transporter. I will be lucky to get home every other weekend at this rate. CFA is looking for some miracles that just dont exist.

Now if you could just make it pick up its scrap in the gold fields, you would have something.

FWIW I have been dealing with an engine surging problem for quite a while. Had repeating apps codes and occasionally 237 and 236 codes. I did replace the APPS with no help at all. I then started noticing the the MAP codes seems to come before the apps codes. I did find that messing with the MAP wiring harness Has made difference. Enough so that the surging went away. I did also replace the MAP sensor but I believe messing with the wiring made a bigger difference. The MAP, APPS, ECT, OIL, and I believe the CAM sensor all share a common ground with a splice in the engine wiring harness near the break out for the ECM. I am as dull on electrical as you but I am convinced a lot of the issues you, me and many others are seeing are tied to common problem. I dont know enough to advise you where to look, but I am going to find mine. That ground I speak of is common to to many things but a bad sensor can wreak havoc with the others. Kind of a crap shoot on the root of the problem.

I second the above. Vent is plugged

So I go to leave Sunday headed back to Maryland and the truck is in limp mode with a 237 code. Drove about 7 miles and got 236 code. Stopped and put some ice in the cooler. Then cleared the codes and the 237 came back very quickly and it staid in limp mode. Noticed one other thing and that was the SGII was reading a constant 14.6 psi on the MAP, assuming atmospheric pressure, never saw that number on it ever and it never changed. The SG has never read the boost right but it has always moved usually in the high 20's to the low 30's as I recall. To late to do much last night. Got up this am and disconnected the Comp and it ran fine. Came back from that little ride and hooked the Comp back up and it ran fine. The SG was reading in the high 20's to the mid 30's on the map. I did exercise the all the connectors for the comp this time. Hoping that is the issue because for now I have to get back to work.

Well I'll be darned.

You had to move the bumper to install them?

Put a new MAP sensor in today. It cleared most of my smoke issues up. Ran the comp on 3X3 with very little. Before 3X1 was very smokey at lower rpm. Temp gauge seemed to holding too although I did see it drop to about 170 once. Punched several times and it did set a 236 code. Not sure why since the Comp should be boost fooling. 30 psi is the max I saw but was not watching the gauge to closely.

I thought the blue was good up to B20. I have the blue on mine.

I keep looking for that deal out my too. No success though.

I have been running a good bit off it over that past 3 years or so. Any where from B5 to B20. I have had no bad results from it and the mileage has been good. The engine runs quieter on it also. The best mileage i have ever achieved in my truck came off of bio mass diesel at the 20% mix. Both times 22.4 mpg running 75 down the interstate. I just they were required to label better. What I have bought recently from Love's is labeled "B5 to B20 bio or bio mass diesel". Not sure how they can label it way but they are. I also run it in the winter but living in the SE I dont see much sub freezing weather.I have seen lows in the 20's from time to time. I will be in Maryland for the winter so I might rethink a little. That being said i am quite happy with the way it runs in my truck and have had no ill effects from it.

.025 last time I checked about 3 weeks ago when I changed my battery cables. Since I was banging on the wiring harness while searching for the socket I dropped, it leads me to believe that is the problem. Still could be the sensor and that why I ordered one. The temp sensor righting itself after 10 years was pretty exciting though. That one still blows my mind.

Crap shoot is pretty generous but accurate.

Well here is an update. Everything ran perfect for 6 days. The temp gauge starting wacking out again though not as drastic before. I can now see temps in the 172 to 188 range. The 237 map code came back but no others so far. The other weird thing that happened is when arriving in Maryland last Sunday I stopped for a brief moment and when getting back in and driving off the truck was way down on power. Stuck my foot in it and it just accelerated very slowly. The engine was defueled as best I could tell. Only 8 pounds of boost on the mechanical gauge and very slow accelrattion. It did accelerate to 3k rpm, but very slowly. By the time I hit 5th gear it recovered and had full power. I noticed the CEL was on before I pulled out and thats when I saw the 237 code. This has happened 4 times now, most recently today. Lasted a little longer but with my foot in it in 5th it recovered and was very noticable when it happened, like flipping a switch, no power to power and smoke. Cant help but think this is a wiring issue. I did order a new MAP sensor and oil pressure switch just in case. I am going to tear into this weekend and see what I can find. I am thinking the ground junction in the harness near the ECM break out or I do have some splices going into the ECM from the APPS sensor that are suspect. The temp thing gets me though, it predates any other problem I have had with this truck. No engine surging thru this whole episode however and I will take that. The truck is running as good as it ever has other than these glitches.

Drop your trailer then weigh the truck with everything you had in the truck when you weighed them both. Deduct the that weight from your total. The only thing that bugs me about the weight stated above is the f+r axles ought toe equal the f/r total and its 250 pounds off. I know the few times I have weighed mine I only get the front axle, rear axle, and the trailer axles. Never got the f and r combined. That would have required me to re position the truck to get both axles on the same plate of the scale.

I would be pretty pissed too. I hope they are men of their word on a warranty. Sounds like they cleaned up somebody's mess and gave it to you.

It may very well be the apps sensor. I would start with the diagnostics for the 121 code and see where it leads you. Mean while I am sure some one much better versed in electrical than I will come along. Sundays can be a little slow at times.

If there is one thing I have learned here is that no seems to have the same electrical gremlins as next one. I have had similar issues but not the same. My engine would surge but only to 7% to 10% then go to dead pedal, but would have to sit for a minute or so before the pedal would come back. I had the 121 and 222 code along with 236 and 237 map codes. Luck has temporarily fixed mine but pretty sure it will come back. Mine is most likely in the wiring. Is your engine actually trying to surge to 101% or just showing it on the quad? The diagnostics for the 121 is a good place to start. When mine started all of this the diagnostics for the apps codes pointed to the apps but turned out not to be the case. what kind of apps do you have, OE of aftermarket? Check your connections for corrosion, check you grounds for the same and cleanup anything that's nasty. Check your alternator for excess AC voltage, that can wack some things out kilter also. I hate electrical problems. I would rather change out my 6 speed by myself in the gravel drive way while getting a root canal than have them.

I have an AD II 165 for 7 years of so. I did loose the pump about 2 maybe 2.5 years ago and the sent me another no questions asked, Mine also has the adjustable pressure regulator and works fine. Had to reset a couple times when new and after replacing the pump. No other issues with it. Might go different if this one does not last we will see.

I always wondered what a battery change in one of these vehicles costs. i very seldom hear this mentioned, I only hear about the 0 emissions. It is true the car does not but the power plant sure does.

That's very true. But I do have a couple of those spring loaded grabber thingy's for just such a situation. Most of my stuff is just cheap iron though. Unfortunately the only tie wire I ever seem to have in the truck is those little 6" loop ties. Cant grab much with those little things. Do have a roll at the house. It is good stuff.

The only time mine has done is on old tires. New ones stop it. But every time I hit the right kind of bump it feels like it wants to. Put a new steering stabilizer on her about 3 or 4 weeks ago and it helped quite a bit.