dripley

What systems are down when this fuse blows? I have one in mine but it has never blown. I see a lot of references to cruise control problems.

Here is 6k on the rear axle with stock set up. no need for any extras if all is working right.

There is no ECM fuse. Which fuse do you see blowing. Hate to see you sell it for a fuse that does not exist. m

I read a lot of these turbo discussions and to be honest I am turbo ignorant. I do understand what they do and how they do it. I just get lost in what is the best for a given situation. When I make up my mind on whether to ditch the Comp for the quad I will ask.The turbo in my truck is the HX35W with a Banks quick turbo exhaust housing. I cant seem to find any info on the quick turbo housing and Banks has never answered the few emails I have sent them. That and the fact my HX has 410k on it. No play in any direction so I guess that is a plus. Maybe a rebuild is all thats called for.

Or 12!!

In reading the TSB I would agree it sounds like your problem. Fuel and air will also cause loss of power if starved of either. Short of going to another dealer or renting a Smarty, DAP has them, I dont know what to tell you. As far as CA vs non CA, I would claim ignorance on what the differences are.

Welcome Mr. Dodge. Sharp looking truck.

Sounds like a good thing Mike. Best of luck to you with it.

I have to agree with @JAG1 on upgrading the fuel system. And a big no vote on the intank. That cost me about $900 about 8 years ago and I still ended up buying a full AD system a couple years later. If you are handy with a wrench they are not difficutl to install. It does require dropping the fuel tank or lifting the bed, neither that difficult. I did loose the AD pump a couple years back ad they honored the warranty no questions asked. I am sure Vulcan would share their experience they have had with AD on warranty. Fuel starvation can and will cause a loss of power. Not being able to go past 2k rpm is strange. Will it not go past 2000 rpm when shift out of od? Is this towing and empty or just towing? How is your boost pressure? You mentioned a lot of black smoke, you could have a boost leak. Also have you checked for trouble codes?

So does my wife but the 6 speed was over her head. She also said it was to big. Had to rent a truck many years ago for her to drive. It happened to be a 2nd gen half ton. Said that was the right size truck for her. Not sure I ever convinced her it was the same truck as mine.

i was tickled with the banks system I had when everything was right on it. Then I put the rv's in and even that much happier. Good reliable power. i would however take a ride in one of the big horse power truck just feel it. But I know my limitations for now. Good luck with the build.

Cant help with the copper washer but will be interested in how the Rock Solid thing works out.

The only time you ought to hear the fan running is on first strat up or when under heavy load. You will hear run on first start up and some times on a hot start up. Should not run for long, just enough to get the fluid right in the fan clutch. I know when mine comes on it sounds like a turbo prop plane is passing over me.

I dont have one but am very aware of them. Pretty well thought it was a well known fix like you.

It is normal for the pump to just bump for 1/2 second at key on. Bumping the starter should make the pump run for 20 seconds or so. Are you sure the WTS light is coming on at key on? What you describe is the classic delayed light with no start until the light comes on. All of this is a function of the ECM. Have you checked for any DTC's?

I am surprised that with the Ottomind you dont have an EGT and a boost gauge. My Banks came with those gauges and not a FP gauge. I ran pretty much the same set up you have for 7 years or so and was quite happy with it. Drove good and towed good. i do have a Edge Comp now just because the Banks crapped out. Mine is a manual tranny and not an auto. As far as upgrades, it all depends on what you are after.

Does your wait to start light come on at key on? Hot wiring the pump wont make the pump run? Is the engine turning over and just not starting or not turning over with the starter?

This is the best show I have seen in a while. Makes me feel better about my steering. Kind a like bonus footage.

I was able to put one cube of brick in the front of the bed and the other on right behind it on top of the rear axle. That help me get some of the weight on the front axle. No where near half the weight up front maybe 20%.

The most I ever put in mine was 2 cubes of brick, that is near 5k pounds. The brick was about 45 miles from the job. I was able to load it from the front of the bed back so as to spread the weight to both axles. The truck handle it fine. I did give myself plenty room but never had a problem stopping. 80% of the trip was interstate. I would not be afraid to do it again but would not want to do it on a regular basis.

So I should not have bought all those oe bulbs when they were an sale on Rock Auto for 2 bucks each? I do seem to have a abundance of bulbs these days. Not to mention when I bought my new housings they came with bulbs. I just need to figure out how to stuff 2 of them in each housing.

I understand. My ABS and brake light are lit. New front wheel bearings and a new rear wheel speed sensor and they are still lit. I would rather pull my tranny twice in the driveway by myself as try to find electrical issues. I suck at it.

I dont know anything about the bulbs other than they dont seem to be compatible with the Dodges.

That is where the OP's came from. They are fixing it to return to him. As they should. Good to see folks honor their warranties.

Both of my return lines, engine and lift pump, go to the basket. I dont remember how low they go though, but my AD is suppose to return all the air pulled into it back to the tank. So either I got them very low or the AD works as it should. The only air problems I have ever had are from leaks somewhere else.