dripley

Check out the KDP thread. I posted it there for @notlimah. Can post here to if need be. No special tools so far. I did cheat on the on the fan and just unbolted the assembly from the engine block. It was quite easy. I am going back with the stock part. Found the oem one on Ebay for $75 to the door. Dont think I have a need for a fancy one. A little photo montage for you. Now for the crank seal. While the crank is polished from the old seal I cannot feel it with my fingers at all. This is where the seal has be sitting. At the front of the crank you can see a little gray line. Now I can feel something there but it is almost like the crank has a slight indentation just forward of the line. Not like a groove worn into just a lightly indented. The forward part of the seal does sit there though. Is that a secondary seal? To sleeve or not to sleeve?

I have to assume the KDP is what I am pointing to in the picture. Have not seen a photo of one in a long time. Mine is recessed maybe 3/16" maybe less.

I cheated. Quicker than buying a new tool. That is how I saw it. That is what I figured. Yes. Since I had the bumper off I figured I would go all the way in and replace the main seal and the timing cover is leaking a little too. I just hope the timing case it self is not leaking, I think it is at least weeping. Cleaning it up real good and going to caulk it from the outside as best I can. Also am going to replace the harmonic dampener. Picked up a vibration at idle a little while back and have one at 70 to 76 mph. Not sure they are related. Got the old on off and cant find the tick mark on the inner ring to see it it slipped, but the rubber on the back looks a little funky.

That would tell me reverse since the pulley spins clockwise. Now all I need is a wrench. Seems I left the one I have at work.

Which way is the nut threaded, righty tighty lefty loosey or the reverse? About to take mine off and dont want to drive myself crazy, I know its on there good. I have plenty access.

Just barely crack the valve open. Thats how it protects.

X2 on what Mike says. The basket should springs to keep the bottom of the basket on the bottom of the tank. The corrugations in the straw allow it to flex and follow the basket down. This is my in tank pump basket before I removed the pump. Notice the springs at the back, they keep the basket on the bottom of the tank and the fuel line flexes as it moves up and down. This basket is very close to the Liberty model that Vudlcan sells and @Mopar1973Man mentions. Possibly the only good thing that came out of Dodge installing it when my oe lift pump died.

It would be good to know what you fp is before hand. If it is low you can take care of that at the same time you do the VP. Pretty much anytime you open up the fuel system you have to bleed it to get the engine running again. And you should always protect the sender or tap for a mechanical gauge from the VP pulses.

The FP gauge is to read pressure off of the lift pump that feeds the VP. That is the critical pressure you need to know. The VP needs 14 psi and above for max circulation of fuel thru the over flow. This give the electronics max cooling.

Very sorry to hear of your gma's passing. From my experience rejoicing is part of grieving. If it were not for rejoicing the sadness would have overwhelmed me. All of this was made clear to me when we buried my father. We had service at our church and were to bury him in the courtyard. The responsibility of carrying his urn out of the church to the courtyard fell to me and my older brother. When we went to pick it up the weight of the urn caught me off guard and I almost fumbled it, all this with tears streaming down my face. At that moment I hear in the back of my head "Somebody get a dust buster, Dave done dropped his daddy". That slowed the tears and then just as if my father was standing beside me he started laughing and continued to laugh at me all the way to the courtyard. I was smiling before I got out of the church and felt as if he had is arm around me. When the emotions overwhelm, find something to celebrate about her life. It will help sustain you.

The first time I did a VP my son helped and we took 4.5 hours. It is not difficult at all, I read and re read all the way thru the install. Pretty much bolt off bolt on.

I dont move my trailer but 4 or 5 times a year for maybe 3k miles at most. But I have always liked the rake of the truck. Just looks like it's asking slap a load on it a go. All personal preference I guess.

do you know where the tap is for the FP gauge? If it is to close to the VP and is not protected by a snubber or needle valve or the like will cause your needle to bounce alot. I do agree with @Mopar1973Man that the pump is going and will fail eventually. I would start saving up for one. Might last a day might last a year. You just never know. You could try dumping some 2 stroke oil in it. a lot us run it on a regular basis for the lubricity at 1 oz per gallon. you might try double that for a couple tanks and see if it helps.

As one who has buried all but one member of the generations above me and a couple of my generation there is just nothing easy about it. Even if they have a long and productive life. My heart goes out to you and your family for I know it is not easy no matter when or how a loved one passes. It seems to me the burden of death is carried more by the survivors.

Just ditch all the lift kits. Mine sits on the stock suspension and with my 5th wheel the rear ends sits at near 6k pounds and sits as level as it gets.

The parts look up tool will give you all need for part numbers. Give it a try it is easy to use.

What are you seeing at WOT? You want to stay at the 14 to 15 range under full throttle, WOT. The signature is very helpful to all.

I changed my oe injectors out near 250k miles for a set of RV275's. I changed the RV's out with about 140k miles on them thinking I might have one going bad. Turned out not to be the issue. But i did want to try out something different and put in a set of 50HP DAP injectors with after market bodies. They work fine but a bit smokey. I their defense though I do have some boost leakage which is not helping. Hope to rectify that very soon and will see how they do. I have 10k miles on them at the moment. So to answer your question, I have not really had any problems with any of them, just experimenting.

i am on my 3rd set of injectors with the oe crossover tubes and they still seal just fine. I have read here in the past that some of the earlier 24v's have different tubes and the dont hold up as well. I dont know that to be a fact however.

With pictures.

Might have to agree with @Russ Roth on that. From what I have read it is not uncommon. Rare in an 02 but not unheard of. The older the more likely it is there. I am going to be opening mine up real soon. I will be interested it what I find. Mine is am early 02. Bought it in October of 01.

Like my buddy @Mopar1973Man says, if you dont tap the pump you dont void the warranty

I was just addressing the growing oil with the bad O ring and not the hard starts. Your'e still a pretty smart feller though.

Most likely a bad O ring on the injector. I dont think you can do a leak down test on an injector. Your fuel system bleeds off all the pressure once you shut down the engine any way. I would think with a bad injector you would notice something in the way it runs like a loss in power or fuel mileage or a miss. The hard start after sitting is usually a leak somewhere that is letting air into the fuel system after shut down. Two of the main culprits are the return line on the back of the head and the tee it ties into along with the return from the VP. Neither one is easy to see. The head requires a mirror and the return tee is tucked in behind the filter canister at the back of the engine. They dont necessarily leak a lot fuel for you to see. How many miles on your injectors?

I stand corrected that. Did a little research and @Hawkez is right on early 6 speeds. And to @portlandareae28 who ever you choose to get the pump from can help with what you need, HO or SO.