dripley

Thats where I disconnected mine. One of the insulating caps on one of the heaters on mine partially melted and have not determined why. No codes have set.

Mine came right off, no big deal. But I was expecting trouble after reading many posts like the above..

@Hudsondust just where in Hickory do you live? I live off of Sulphur Springs Rd near Springs Road. I was happy to find this group myself.

Thats the set up I have. Working fine now for near 7 years. Same fuel basket also. That was the only good thing that came from the in tank pump Dodge blessed me with 10 or 12 years ago. I did put a spring clamp at part 2 and 3. Think it came with it.

The WOT, surging and wacky temp readings are three of the symptoms I had when my ECM died. Will your scanner read the codes?

Working on it boss.

My truck has a 3/8" pickup in it. I have about a 3 psi drop from idle to WOT. That is what my AD came with so I installed it. y pressure runs 18 at idle and 15 at WOT. It really am not worried about it but it does probably make the pump work harder. Knowing what I know today I would have taken everything to 1/2". Maybe one dayI will change it !!

Good to hear it was not too difficult.

That's different. New truck??

Being electrically challenged does not help either.

IIRC mine is set up like yours, two studs in the turbo and 2 in the manifold. Been a long time since I have had mine off.

I would add that it would be good to clear the codes and see if any do come back. If you have nothing to check codes with it would be advisable to get one. The key trick is not always reliable to get your codes. I too have been experiencing some surging over that past year and a half or so including a dead peddle on 2 or 3 occasions. I had APPS codes and the diagnostics told me it was bad. Now I already had a Timbo so was a little surprised but never the less bought a new one. It did not fix my problem. Mine never did occur while the cruise was set. Do you know what kind of APSS you have? Do you have fly by wire cruise or does it run off the vacuum system? The fly by wire bypasses the APPS, another reason I believed mine was a APPS issue. If you have a manual trans yours is probably fly by wire. The easiest way to tell is the throttle pedal will not move down after the cruise is set. Since yours did it thru the cruise maybe yours is not fly by wire. Thru working on this problem and any other time I had to disconnect the batteries to work on the truck I began noticing that it seemed any time I disconnected the batteries the surging would go away. Maybe for a week sometimes more it would be surge free. Not sure if this was really working I redid some of my electrical connections on a couple of occasions and sure enough this helped and I was surge free for 5 or six weeks. I had also noticed the tops of my batteries were pretty dirty and I took my volt meter and could read a fair amount of voltage across the tops. So I cleaned them up really good. I have now been surge free for over 2 months. Now being as electrically challenged as I am, I am not sure what is happening. Kind of flying by the seat of my pants for now. I know disconnecting the batteries does not reset any computer as some say. I do know bad grounds a hot connections can cause funny issues with these trucks.

I did not check the bearings for any debris. The ABS light was on when I replaced the bearings and I hoped that would solve the problem. I have pulled the connectors off of the computer plugged and unplugged them a few times. greased them and reconnected them. I also did the same to the connector just behind drivers front wheel. Have not ohmed anything as of yet.

Good to hear Mike. Now if I can fix mine. 2 new wheel bearings and replaced the rear sensor. Lights are still on. But that is for another thread.

The speed issue depends on what you want, a high geared or low geared truck. The 4:10 will turn more rpm cruising the interstate. Not something I would want but that's my preference. Not sure what he rpm drop should be going into overdrive, but what you describe sounds more like TC lockup like @Dieselfuture mentions. It feels alot like another gear.

My AD II has the pressure regulator. I have never had to mess with it after initial set up. The first one went 6 years with no adjustment and the second one I have never adjusted. It has lost about 1 psi but still sits at 15 and 18. Wonder if there is a difference between the two?

Not knocking Timken but they like everyone else get their bearings from all over. I just put 2 new front hub bearings on mine that I bought from an old member here for $150 for the pair. Not one mark on them as to where they were made. Could have put them in anyone's box. How can you tell the difference. I guess if they weld themselves together in 20k I might know.

Seems to come in waves some times. I remember when my passenger went. took all weekend to get it apart. 2 days later the driver side went about 85 miles from home. Had to pay somebody to do that one. Happened not long before I joined up here. I did get about 210k out of the oe.

Wish I would have kept mine when the contacts went on it also. Did not know any better. Bought a new from Advance auto for $100 bucks with the lifetime warranty and they have replaced it once so far. But I might be doing it again in the near future. Mine seems to be getting a little weak.

I would use them again but am looking for a little better ride next time. My truck is the work truck and daily driver. Some of the road trips I make would be nicer with something more ride friendly. I have about 50k on them and they still function properly and only cost $20 each.

Good to hear my friend. Hope all stays well with her.

That sucks. You would think a decent warranty would cover that. Hoping yours will do that.

One of the biggest things I have learned here is that most codes are not absolute. They point you in a direction but it is still up to the end user to see where it takes you. With help from the members here I have been able to solve most of my problems and some just on my own. My truck runs HAPPY!!!!

I just bought a set 50's from DAP and asked them what they we charge to rebuild my RV's. $110 to redo them unless they had to replace any of the nozzles. $300 for an hours worth of work is excessive.

I would not disagree that the 606 is absolute no more than a 216 is positive death of a VP. If it shows and you have other symptoms of failing ECM it can be pretty definite. Never hurts to do some diagnostics though. Odd thing for me when mine went I had no 606 code. I had many other high and low voltage codes for almost every sensor in the truck. Timbo apps do not help either. The truck was undriveable on a public street. The first rebuilt ECM i got did not work but it did spit out a 606 code. The replacement did work for a little over a year and then it died. So in my case no code but a dead ECM.