dripley

The rv 275 get my vote. Ran a set for 150k with good fuel mileage and nice bump in power. With your stock set up you will like them. Matter of fact I am going to send mine off and have them rebuilt. Just put a set fo DAP 50's in mine three weeks ago. Decent power just a little smokier than I like. I just replaced my valve cover gasket after 39k. It was leaking a little in the back. Put a Fel Pro in and it is fine for now. Just need to keep an eye on it for while. I am buying parts on a budget for now.

rebuilt or new can come with to much AC voltage. Have it tested while in the store. While .1 ac voltage is a fail it may not be when the grids are cycling. Someone correct me if I am wrong on that. I always thought the test should be run at idle with all accessories off. I have read of folks that have added the extra ground on the apps but seems more of a band aid like the noise isolator. Was your engine running at 17% or the apps just showing 17%?

I got the part # for the clamps and googled it. Many mopar over stock places have them the little blocks are pretty reasonable but the like actual clamps and shipping. Made them a little pricey. But I need some too and will have to order soon.

The 6 speed is even worse IMHO. I can shift mine pretty quick when I want to but the boost pretty well disappears every shift. And you have one more gear to deal with. As far as hijacking is concerned I always thought we just get a little misdirected but usuall y good things come from it and we walk away the better for it. Just my worth.

I have to agree with @Dieselfuture on man sparking batteries. Shorting a battery is never good. Did you check the other end of the of the negative cable to be sure it was tight? The end away from the battery.

DAP sells them both ways, with and with out Bosch bodies. The aftermarket require no cores and the ones with Bosch bodies require cores. You can still have the Bosch bodies and send yours in for the core.

Welcome to you sir.

I am on my third starter and never noticed that was in the way. It is a bit of a pain and since I am laying on my back taking it off maybe it is in the way and I just dont notice what it is.

I have experienced that weird idle you have in the past. Never figured it out. It has for the most part stopped but every once in awhile it will do it. As far as that blip in throttle percentage mine does, sits on 0% and blips randomly to 10%. From talking to others here it seems to be inherent to the scan gauge. The blip also disappears once I get over 10% throttle. I think you are seeing 12% since you are stuck on 1%. Good luck with your problem and I look forward to seeing what you find. And welcome to farm here.

my oe went back 2010. Ran a little funny one day then went the next. Ran the same alternator for quite awhile afterwards. I did not know about AC voltage then. Not sure what killed mine.

We experienced one back in Georgia 30 35 years ago and the real light show was all around. The way the light filters thru the trees and shadows cast by buildings and such were surreal. Made you feel strange, really dont know how to describe it. Going to try and make it, just depends on where I am and what plane ticket costs.

Good to hear. My daughter has an 06 I believe. I kind of got stuck driving for a few days while working in her area. It drove fine and filling it up for less than $20 was pretty cool. The drivers seat was comfortable but my leg laid against the console and was npt comfortable at all. It was on the 4th and last day I drove that I found a steering wheel adjustment that let back away enough to get my leg off of the console. Sometimes learning new vehicles can be fun. On a side note, hers was returned with a full tank and mine was empty. Kids, you gotta love em. I know I do mine.

Interesting!!

yep! I forgot how, had to go back and look it up to find it.

Show off.

Go to the top right of the page and click on your screen name. From the drop down menu pick account settings. You will see signature on the left had column. Click it and add what you know. You can look at mine and Mike's at the bottom of the posts to get an idea of what to put there. If you are not sure whats on the truck we can help figure that out.

One thing you need to know is how much the trailer actually weighs. Manufacturers dry weight means nothing. You need to know what weighs. Get on Cat scale or something similar and weigh it. I pull a 15k pound fifth wheel with the stock brakes and they work fine in conjunction with the trailer brakes. I have a exhaust brake which helps also. It does sound like you need to rebuild your calipers if they are pulling that bad. As far as pulling the hill, if your rpm stayed a steady 2800 your tranny is slipping and it will not take much of that for it to burn up. The stock auto in these truck is a weak link especially carrying a heavy load. Unless you have 4:10 gears in the rear the bigger tires are just multiplying the problem. If you have a tuner or anything adding power well thats another multiplier. I will let the folks that know the autos give you better advice than I can. You can go to your profile page and fill out you signature with any mods you know are on the truck. that would help alot. All can see what you are working with then. I you have no gauges a FP, EGT, Boost, and tranny temp gauges are all good to have. Tranny temp for sure with an auto. There are some basics. Lets what others will add.

I cant help but think it is fuel related since the vibration started with a new set of injectors. Do you have any evidence of fuel leaking anywhere? Double check anything you messed with from the VP all the way back thru the new lift pump to fuel tank. Check the high pressure lines also at the vp and the head. I read your post again. You changed a lot items. Did you do it all yourself or have that local diesel shop do it? At $300 to show up and $300 an hour they ought to be miracle workers. A dealer is not that expensive. It is possible something else than injectors is causing this but it seems all was well until you added the bigger injectors. The ECM could be part of the problem but I am no expert on how the VP and the ECM interact with each other. It is suspect however since you have no short prime at key on. If you bump the starter with no engine start does the lift pump run for 25 or so seconds? Does your WTS light illuminate right away or is it delayed? Can the truck be started right after inserting the keys? These are all signs of ECM problems. If yours is still under warranty you probably ought to talk with them. All that being said, if this did not start until the injector install, it makes that part of the work done the prime suspect.

@Mopar1973Man I have one that I just took off while I was replacing my front u joints. It has a about 180k on it. I will try and get it out to you next week. They were still working fine when I took them off. It should fit the bill. Send me the address you would like it shipped to.

Welcome. That is a fine looking ride.

The only time mine did the same thing was when the OE lift failed. Just shut off and would not restart. All the above are good advice also. Reading the codes would help you find a starting place.

You should not be shaking just because of the bigger injectors. Unless there is a problem with one them. I am thinking since it vibrates free revving and under load that it probably is not a drive shaft. But it is easy to check out the drive shafts.

I understand the time thing. My first order of business if I get the time is chasing oil leaks. Need to pull the front off the truck and dive in. New boost boots are in order too along with fixing any other air leaks I might have.

Welcome. I cant add to what been said about the truck. It is fine looking ride.