dripley

The rear end sits about 2 to 3 inches above the front end. That would be about a factory rake on a 2nd gen. 2500 that is.

Vulcan does have a cap you can put on it. I have one on mine. The trucks came with a cap on it. That is the one I have on mine. You could just replace the shrader valve itself. Vulcan might even have that. If not the big line kit is a good option like @Me78569 suggests.

I have the slider in mine and only opened twice. Once when I bought and once about 5 years later when a pressure washer in the bed smashed into it during a rather abrupt stop. Both of them landed in the front seat. I snapped them back in and dont think I have opened them since. When we traded in the wife's 2000 Dakota for an 06 we picked one that did not have them. She finally noticed and got a little upset about it. She finally was convinced she did not need them when I explained to her that the only time she used them was for me to crawl thru when she locked her keys in the car. She never latched them. I had a regular cab with the slider and liked it a lot. It was nice riding down the road in the winter with it open. Hard to do in an extended or crew cab unless it is power operated.

While I have had mine on a relay since my AD install it would be nice to have it in the PDC and clean up some the added wiring I have put in over the years.

Mine did the same thing a few years back and the part is still available from several of the surplus Dodge places for $30 or so if you want to replace it. I have always wanted to replace the whole thing just cant figure what to repace it with or the build it it out of.

I ran diesel kleen in mine for about 3 or 4 months and noticed no difference in the how the truck performed. I did notice a quieter engine almost immediately and a touch of an mpg increase on the highway, kind of hard to say on that.

Here is what I got from Filterspro if you want to compare pricing. Was the cheapest i found at the time. Not knocking Amazon, I buy things there also.

http://www.filterspro.com They have some good pricing there. Get my oil filers there too.

Maybe you can throw an I Quad on your Chevy and start a new forum section. Glad the new truck is working out for you.

I am running the same filter and looking at a spare and see that piece is not in the proper place. The smaller diameter part I can see looking thru the threaded hole. The larger diameter part should be seen in the smaller holes around the perimeter of the filter. I has to be a seal to keep fuel from bypassing the filter media as best i can determine. Looks like a reject to me even if I am wrong on its purpose.

As long as my beast is not in the driveway. I have no electric rock, just a plug.

I am no filter expert by any means but I have to agree that does not look right. Either something has come apart or something foreign is in there.

That was oil from from the leaking front engine seal. If you would come by you could help me fix them.

Well I did not read the whole thing because they were getting pretty testy with one another. Plus I get a little skeptical when someone claims an 8% mpg increase.

You can find them in one these.https://cumminsengines.com/nissan-titan Probably others too,

You might want to run that by FASS. It seems to me that most folks have a drop in pressure when that pring gives them trouble. Are you running a mechanical pressure gauge or an electric. The brain on the electrical ones can go out and give some whacky readings.

I wish I had known about the rebuild kits when my oe went out. But like @JAG1 I am on my second life time replacement.

I dont know about the tops of my pistons, but I just changed out my injectors with 150k on them. There is hardly any build up on them mostly just black. that was running 2 stroke the entire time. I have also run a lot bio diesel thru during those miles. B-20 and less.

Cant say anything about Opti lube since I dont run it. 2 stroke is available almost any where.

Having a hard time quoted everyone so here goes. @IBMobile Pretty sure it is. @JAG1 With that big a list a friend like Mike is a necessity Wish I could help. @jamman.The only wag I have solved the thread mystery is to take either the nut or the bolt somewhere to match them. Good luck to all.

I am chalking this one up to feeble mind syndrome. I seem to have it too. I believe it is incurable.

I would do it in a heart beat but that extra 2k miles is hard to swallow.

While it would not be my first tool of choice. I cant see what harm it would do. They just pull straight out and are not attached to anything.

That I do not. Might be someone but I have not heard them mention it.

I do have a set of their 50's in at the moment. They replaced a set RV275's. I bought the after market w/o bosch bodies. I did this to save on the cores because I am going to have the RV's redone and am on budget. I am having to turn the fuel down on my comp to keep them from smoking. I have only had them for a couple weeks and have not spoken to them about it. It does clear up after the turbo spools but the rv's were much less smokey, only a little puff until spooled. To be fair I do have some small boost leaks and my turbo has 395k miles on the OE. So there are other forces coming into play I believe. They do make good power. We do have several members here that are using DAP injectors with no issues what so ever. It would be good to get some of their opinions for a proper review. You might even give them a call and see what they would charge to put yours together also.