dripley

If it sits on a slab on grade it is much more difficult to do. I can be done however if you have enough $$$$. My outstrip the value of the building though.

I guess blasting is out? Nothing like a little fun with dynamite. Sorry hit the wrong button on the above. Insulation I can overcome. River thru the house is another issue all together.

the moog have not been terrible for me but still only lasted half life of the oe, ball joints that is. Just wonder how much that has to do with the 00-02 front end. I dont know. Any way good luck on yours and hope all works out well.

I guess blasting is out? Nothing like a little fun with dynamite.

Not knowing the topography around your place, is there room to dig some sort of drainage ditch to go around the house?

Like to do the same myself but will have to be patient. That sucks.

The Moog parts I put on 5 years ago is still good steering wise but the ball joints have not. I am going for Spicer on the ball joints next go around. I have not seen enough good on the T steering to try it. I believe that @Mopar1973Man did a round of Mevothech ball joints and did NOT have success with them. Not sure though.I do know they are one of the cheapest at Rock Auto.

I see all the bad reviews came out while I was typing. My experience was different than everyone elses but I have seen others saying the same derogatory things. I replaced all of my steering except the pitman arm and my ball joints about 120k miles ago. All with Moog. The track bar only lasted about 80k to 90k and I did replace it with another Moog bar. The ball joints are starting to get a little up and down play in them. I never really heard anything bad about Moog till just after installing all of it. Federal Mogul also took them over about that time too so who knows what might have changed since. Also from what I know the 00-02 are pretty harsh on those parts, ball joint especially. So I can only speak of parts I bought over 5 years ago to go on my 2nd gen 02. I am still not convinced the T is better than the Y but I have entertained the thought changing. Not sure I want bigger wheels to accommodate it and dont really want to grind the TRE's either. Seems some have had good success with the T steering.

Our truck are more alike than I was seeing in the photos. maybe we can go somewhere and get a volume discount on the same work.

I would have to admit he has very good taste in trucks. Not that I am prejudiced at all.

Normally teflon would bother me. If you just put the tape on the threads for the nuts to screw on then it is outside of the fuel system. The threads on those nuts do not seal anything. They allow the nut to apply pressure to the fuel line and seal it to the connector tube. The treads are more like a bolt and nut thread and not tapered like a fuel line fitting. The threads do not make the seal. All that being said if changing them out gives you more peace of mind by all means do it. $150 is not a lot money for peace of mind. Just my worth.

If there not leaking they are sealing properly. Just keep an eye on them.

The lift pump does not have a relay. The fuel relay in the PDC is for the VP.

I swapped mine out a couple maybe 3 years ago and while the low beams are pretty much like stock, definitely better than the yellowed oe ones, the high beams reach out so far its ridiculous. I used Eagle Eye stock replacement with the one bulb.

The pig tail for oe pump pulls the power thru the ECM. Hooking it up thru a relay takes the load off of the ECM. The aftermarket pumps that come with a relay and harness are designed to use the oe pigtail for a trigger wire and power comes from the battery and not thru the ECM. That being said if you are connected to the oe pigtail straight to your pump you are pulling the power thru the ECM.

I believe everyone sees that little blip with the # 1 flashing. OI now mine does. The scan gauge should match the dash gauges it is getting it's info the same as the ECM.

If they ain't leaking you could not pay me enough money to take them back a part. Maybe just taking them apart and putting them back together got them to seal properly. Don't know.

I'll bet Jethro Bodine's lips are smacking right now.

The scan gauge II does not read the map well at all. I think mine shows a little higher than yours but still reads the same a idle. I have seen others here saying the same thing about theirs also.

Wasn't really the home team but figured I ought to pull for the southern team. It was the only game I watched the whole year too other than bit and pieces here and there.

Were you seeing any fuel pressure during that 30 seconds?

The nuts dont really seal anything they just apply pressure to the mating surfaces of the crossover tube and high pressure line to form the seal. Surprised the tape worked but happy for you. As hard as the steel is in my cross over tubes it blows my mind they wear out, but I guess every thing has life span. I have had my lines off 4 or 5 times and the only time I had trouble was after an injector install. I did however tighten the injectors first and them the fuel lines. Never could stop the leakage until I reversed the install and then it stopped. I will be putting some new injectors very soon and hopefully I will not have the problems you are having.

Mine is just a second home. Always in the rv park. Some nicer than others. Stayed in one outside of DC called Cherry Hill RV park. It was my only choice for the job location unless I wanted to drive 40+ miles one way every day. The cost was $1500 a month. That qualifies as the most expensive place I have ever stayed. Every park around DC and north is ridiculously high. As high and higher than my house payment. And I had to pay for the power too.

Thats a good en right there, I dont care what ya say!!

I have used both but mostly the auto diesel. I use the big rig lane dependent upon availability when I am towing the 5th wheel.