dripley

PS for me. Just as available ATF and I have 395k on the oe pump. It must like it.

Thats the one I remember. The quick search i did back then showed them to be quite pricey.

Like Mike says they swim in oil every day of their lives with diesel on the other side of the o ring. Not sure I used a claw the first time i did mine but as easy as the popped out I could have. Was not sure what to expect the first time. @sooxies How far would those injectors rotate any way?

I think your fan is toast. If the oe is discontinued, which I believe you are right, then even if you could replace the blades they probably are not available either. Seems I remember a thread here where some on found a substitute or a link to a thread with one. A wrecking would be my next advice.

You might try what @JAG1 suggested with a piece of PVC pipe, a washer and use one of the short bolt from the intake horn. Crank it down and see if it pops loose. That or pry harder like @Mopar1973Man is saying. Just kind of perplexing to me they wont budge, just no that much holding them in place. The o ring lives with oil on side and fuel on the other.

I have been sitting here trying to figure that out. Thought maybe he was thinking about 12v. Cant figure out what would hold a 24v injector from coming out other than the crossover tubes.

I take it you did have the other crossover tubes removed while trying to remove the injectors.

That was my first thought until I read he could spin them around. I assumed he meant 360*. There is one more puzzling thing to me. That is the #5 line being stuck on the crossover tube since they dont physically attach to each other.

That is the screw in the stealth plate that taps the VP. Not sure what bolt you use to power the lift pump. Mine is powered from the alternator.

A Canadian dollar is worth .76 of a USD. That would equal $12,160.

Are you just trying to pull them with your hands? I did pry mine but it took so little effort it did not bother me. Did that both times I have changed mine. I used a piece of copper pipe. I do like @JAG1's idea though especially if it is stuck. Now much different is it to remove a 12V's injectors vs a 24V? I also used one of the short air horn bolts. Puts the head of the bolt about the same level as the rocker arms.

Thought I would revive this and update it. I still have the surging. I keep tinkering with the grounds and such and can make it go away for while. But always seems to come back. About 4 months ago I noticed the positive cable end on the drivers battery was cracked so I replaced it with a military style and low and behold it stopped, for about 6 weeks. Then started again and got pretty bad. Pulled up to a red light and it shot to near 9% then popped a 222 code and stopped surging for a few days. But as always it started again but not near as severe. At the time my batteries were pretty dirty and I was reading voltage across the tops so I took the cables loose and cleaned them up real good and it stopped again. That was 3 or 4 weeks ago and it has only surged a couple times. Last week end I installed some new injectors and had the batteries disconnected overnight. It has not surged since. It seems every time I mess with the electrical system it stops. I think most of these times I have had the batteries disconnected but not every time as I recall. So when it starts again I think I am going to just disconnect them amd see if that stops it. I understand that disconnecting them does not reset the computer but what could it possibly be doing to stop this surging from happening?

maybe so. I swapped both of mine at different times and there is not good way to bleed the master on a 2nd gen. When I replaced the slave there was a bleeder screw on the aftermarket one I bought, but nothing on the master. Are the other gears changing ok?

I think the only thing you could get backward is the clutch disk. Pretty sure they are directional, I know my SB OFE is. Cant see why that would stop it from going into reverse versus any other gear. I know my truck was hard to get into reverse when it was new without putting into another gear first. Maybe the clutch is not disengaging completely.

Not sure what to say about this. I do agree that you should not be having to be sure you have a hetero sexual card to give your wife. That is pretty much BS in my opinion. I am a live a let live guy and when I give that respect I expect in return. I am just not seeing that with how it is being sold. I have had to make an adjustment in my thinking here lately. I have 2 dear nieces that live in Florida. I love them as I do my children. Held the oldest the day she was born and the youngest not to much older than that. These are the 2 who named me the Chicken Man. I have just in the past few months learned that the youngest is bi sexual and the oldest, who just gave birth to a beautiful baby boy who's father is a black man. I have met him and he is good people and they are to married soon. They love each other and both are very happy to have a child. Now being a son of the south, this is not acceptable to a good many folks but for the most part people are much more acceptable of it than they once were. I myself have to temper that with the fact that my wife is half Japanese. So her and I have brought 3 racially mixed children into the world. The only difference between hers and mine is minr have white skin and my niece's son has a very good tan. As far as the youngest niece, she is the same girl I have always loved. I dont believe we ever held each other as tight as we did on this last visit. I apologize for taking this off from your original post @Me78569 because I could see myself doing the same as you on the card. I did my usual Ripley self this year and wrapped up 40 bucks in a piece of printer paper; I wrote happy V'day, Love David on it. The wife loved it but she would gotten a kick out me not noticing what you did not notice on the card. Not sure what my point is on this whole thing other than you just dont know what might pop up in your future and you never know what surprises might come your way. I just feel better talking about it. Love the Monty Python. They are breed of their own,

I look forward to a revisit with this in 6 months or so to see how it is working out. I say that because my steering when new was not what I expected. All kinds of micro steering to keep it straight. It was the one thing I did not like right after purchase. Cant figure out why i did not get pulled over for suspicion of DUI.

I have ceramic on the front and they have been fine the year or more they have been on. I have not towed with them as of yet. I am little worried about from what I have read. Always pays to read first and but second. I did that backwards. I did get a good deal though.

Aluminum safe stripper or media blaster is all I can think of.

i believe you can use the manual ECM just to test. Not sure how it will interact with the PCM since it is auto. It will probably set some sort of code but should not hurt anything. I am pretty darn sure it is ok but lets see if someone else can add to this before you try.

My doors look about the same a yours. A 15 year old truck is gonna have some issues. I think mine is worth a paint job but cant disagree with what @Dieselfuturesays.

I still have my factory lines from the filter to the vp and they are maybe 1/4" but the banjo's are horribly small. The bolts cant be much over 1/8" of an opening. Very restrictive. I need to add that I have these lines and bolts in a bin on my shop wall and not on the truck. Sorry about that.

After watching the evening news it would appear that someone had warned whatever entity that is in charge of the dam almost 12 years ago the spillway could be a problem. I did not catch who warned who or why. Very short story.

One of the articles I read about the failure brought up an interesting point. These things are designed to do what they are supposed to do, but you cant test them until the event really happens. So how can you tell it it's broke until it breaks? That being said I like you, @KATOOM, wheres the money Jerry? Seems like a good place to spend some of it.

The 2 codes do not bode well for the ECM. The alternator issue is to much AC current produce by the alternator. Some out of the box do the same thing. AC current is bad for all the electronic. Checking all of your connections both + and - is good to do no matter what is going on with your truck. Bad connection and AC current will make these truck do crazy things. You can try all of that and see if it helps but if I were you I would start saving up for an ECM. Mine went years ago but acted mostly different than yours. ECM problem Mine set me back $1400 6 years ago and that is for a reman, there are no new ones anymore. Mike has a great article on testing for AC current. But I can never find it. Someone smarter than me will post it for you though. Is your wait to start light delayed in coming on? Common problem of a failing ECM. That could be causing your engine to not start for a few seconds like you are experiencing. Next time you start it pay attention to the light. Temp gauge pegging on cold start is another. Lift pump not functioning properly is another. Mine did all kinds of crazy stuff when it went. It spit out codes left and right but never a 606. The truck was undriveable until the ECM was replaced. If you have a friend will to loan you alternator and has Cummins swap his ECM in and see if that fixes it.You would then no for sure.

i used mine a fair amount last winter. Had it on a timer to come on 2 hours before I left for work. In 20* weather it would get up around 65* and start just fine. This was outside but mostly blocked from the wind but nothing like it being in a garage. At only 20 outside I never felt any need to heat it up any more than that.