dripley

I agree with Mike on this one. My engine has been surging for the past 2 years with several low and high voltage codes. Doing the diagnostics it has always pointed to the APPS as the problem. But replacing has never worked. Pretty sure I have a short somewhere. Maybe not the same thing but $180 to find out is a little pricey. That is why I have two APPS now.

I do think ILOF is on to something if the complete change of the fuel system is netting the same results.

If I get enough of that just throw on some covers or plastic. Hopefully the bugs wont eat to much.

After seeing how thin my front pads were the other day I figured I would redo my front brakes. Got new rotors and pads even figured i would replace the soft lines. Get in there and cant ca-lapse the pistons on the first caliper. Got around that and figure I need to just do a rebuild on them. I am ok with that but while spinning the hub on the right front I hear a clicking noise and start looking closer and see the u joint moving. It appears that at least one of the cups has no bearings left in it. Figuring the left probably is no better or close to being gone I get to do both sides now. The thing that kills me the most is that while I am in that deep you might as well do my favorite, the BALL JOINTS. Man am I getting a severe head ache.

I made my last trip home from Virginia on a different route. 150 mile trip with the first 100 miles running thru twisty mountain roads at speeds from 40 to 60 mph. The last 50 on the interstate at 70 to 75 mph. This was on a full tank and the gauge barely moved. It usually moves at near 115 or 120. So I stopped and bought fuel and was surprised to see 22.7. Another personal best for me even though it was not a full tank. This job has had me running on a lot of 2 lane highways at lower speed limits than I am used to so I am seeing some surprises in mileage. I do believe the Comp has to get some credit for this. I will know better when I start driving between Richmond and home on the next job. More of what I am used to seeing for mileage calcs.

Going to Richmond VA for another CFA. Working with a new to me project manager but he is hiring me some good subs so thats a good sign. Looking forward to it. I am actually at home for now and dont have to start the CFA until 7-5. Another nail hit square upon the head there IB. I need to blow that one up and put it on the job site. A scare chicken. I had to get a tire mounted Monday morning and while the wheel was off I took a look and the brake pads. Thin is all I can say to describe them. The pads had cut into the rotor maybe a 1/6" maybe less, pads not the rivets. Sitting here with my grandson waiting on the Fedex truck right now. Not complaining though, those pads have been on the truck since I put the exhaust break on 150k miles ago. Not sure how many were on them before the e brake. But it is nice to be home and I got plenty to do.

I am going to try my best. It is going to depend on where I am. I am hoping to get my company to buy the planed. That would seal the deal for sure. I would darn sure enjoy meeting some you folks. Almost forgot. Thanks for the written confirmation. Did not really want to sleep under the truck.

Finally got thru with the Love;s I was working on. Talk about a big job!!!! It was only 2 buildings but 4 businesses. One Love's C store, one Subway, one McDonalds, and a tire store. The past 3+ weeks has been unbelievable to get past all the inspections. We did it though by 12:00 pm the day before opening. A little close for comfort buy we did it. Missed being around here and see I missed a lot. But glad to be back.

All I know is some guy named Jag said i could sleep in the floor of his slide in or maybe that was just under his truck. Maybe I need to get written confirm of the conversation. See what happens when you disappear for a few weeks.

I have run 2 stroke for near 6 years and the only thing that has got me somewhat away from it is the presence of Bio diesel. Since 5% or less does not have to be labeled it is kind of a crap shoot. I am still working in the area I live and pretty much believe that is the mix i am getting everywhere. I still put one half quart per fill up to be safe. There are some good additives listed above but the 2 stroke is available every where I go. I just got thru building a Love's travel center in Virginia and with my road travels and talking to the manager here 15% Bio is Love's standard. Bio at 5% and my truck at get along very well. Anything over 5% has to be labeled. Probably the only reg that is nation wide right now.

I would be thinking front speed sensor or wheel bearing maybe if you have 4 wheel ABS.

I bought my SB from DAP and they tried to steer me to a Valair DD organic. After my experience with the single I just did not want to take the chance on the same brand again. I even spoke with Jacob about what clutch he ran and it was the same SB I wanted. Maybe a bad kit, I dont know. A throw out bearing should last the life of the clutch, my oe did to the tune of 255k. I does not sound like Valair knows what they are getting either. Now lets just hope I am not here in 50k miles with another bad bearing. I am not by any means trying to say that Valair is a trash company. I am in a small minority of folks with problems. Just did not want to have the same problem again. Then I would be kicking my self.

If you had an in tank pump it is the same fuel basket that Vulcan has. I used an ADII with the kit to remove the in tank pump, sounds just like what you describe came with yours. Mine has worked flawlessly for 6 years. Is this the same problem you had with the Fass system?

I will be interested in how this works for you. My oe stuff last to about 230k before I replaced it all. I replaced it with stock Moog parts and the steering is still pretty fair though I have had some instances of death wobble or something near it. Been thinking about the t steering.

I did have the same Valair clutch that Leathermaneod has and was not satisfied with it at all. Very grabby and the throw out bearing went at 70k requiring replacement. Maybe a bad install but i think not. I now have a SB and am very happy with it. I did tow with the Valair maybe 3k miles a year. I move my 5th wheel 4 or 5 times a year from one job to another. That being said I also towed the same 5th wheel on the oe clutch for about 6 years. This was with the Banks stinger plus system that was rated at an additional 75 rwhp. Never knew what to make that and had no issues with it the whole time it was on there.

Good to hear it is running. What is it you are going to let DAP do?

I towed for 4 years stock with a 12k pound trailer and did fine. Adding power did make it better but no more trailer that you are talking about stock will do what you need. Trannys start breaking with more weight and more power. As far as the hitch goes talk to who ever you are renting the trailer from. I would think they would be able help you get situated properly, after all it is their trailer and they should want to see it back in one piece.

How are you checking for trouble codes? Do you have code scanner.?

My 96 had drums and it stopped just fine with and without the my trailer in tow. I do like the 4 wheel disc for the ease of brake jobs. Get an exhaust brake, that really eases up on the brake jobs.

if it tried to start once your getting there. like I said before I spent a long time priming and cranking on mine after swapping the pump before it started.

Cranking it is the only way to get the last of the air out it. i replaced my AD pump about a year ago and I primed and cranked on that thing for hour or more before started. Never had that much trouble on any other occasion. You say that you now have less than 5 psi on your lift pump. Loosen up the supply going to the VP and see if you have any flow there. The return will let a little fuel thru but you cant tell how much.

Several questions come to mind. Are trying to crank the engine or just pump it up to the injectors with the lift pump? Have checked for DTC's? 10 psi is low for a running pressure but will still get fuel up into the system. 18 to 20 psi would be a lot better. The FRRP should be able to reach that unless something is wrong with it. More info on the truck would be helpful also. You can fill out your signature on your profile page with that info and it will appear on all of your posts.

They do make adjustables for my year with the D60, 00-02. They also make them for 3rd gens but I never researched much on any of them other that my truck. they just dont appear to be anything I would use anyway.

I cant really answer your question except for the fact that you cannot adjust camber on a 4 WD Dodge. It is fixed. They do make a upper ball joint that is adjustable but I have heard nothing good about them. If the wheel is bent you would have to replace it. Of course I do not know whether your truck is a 4X4.

I have not broken either. I like not having to grease them. Just one less thing to do.