dripley

The few times I have had to reprime my high pressure side the fuel flow will start as a dribble as the fuel is moved into the system. Open more than one and see what happens.What was the original issue with no starting that made you think your ECM was bad?

Have you tried cracking the injector lines. if they are full of air they need to be bled also. Crack 1, 3, and 4 and see if you have any fuel coming out.

Dont get me wrong, I think that Mikes mod is a sound idea. It brings the line up which will contain the oil and still let the vapor escape. I just dont want the pipe across the top of the engine. I have thought about the 12v tappet cover but am not sure thats the answer either. Just dont know what I will do. On another note, my truck has no rust issues underneath due to the resemblance my truck has to the Exxon Valdez. Nothing like a leaky tappet cover, vacuum pump, and whatever else is leaking under there. This is all hopefully resolved in the near future. I do like the breather in the cap if it does not vent oil every where. Do you clean it regularly or just for the photo?

As many things as I have learned and implemented on my truck here, That is one I cant make myself do. I dont want the pipe across the top of my engine. I guess I will just let my little brain keep turning on that one.

Mine are black with a blue tracer and black with a brown tracer. it has the same connector on it as the ECT connector. i just replaced that one a while back and bought the connector with leads from Rock Auto. No idea on delay of the code though.

That is possibly stock. Mine came with the 265's as an option, but the door tag says 245. I dont what was available in 99. My 96 had 245's. I would think there is some equation to it but would not know what it is. If you have a gps you could make a run down the highway and see how the gps compares to the odo. Or just compare the odo to the mile markers in like a 50 mile run down the interstate. Not very scientific but would give you ad idea.

2 wires to the iat. I bought my harness off of someone parting out a truck over on CF for $75. A new one is around $800 IIRC.

I know that sounded like a stupid question but I have seen folks think the gauge is accurate to the gallons. Do you have stock size tires? That can throw the odometer off. I see around 18 to 20 on the highway and 14 to 16 around town, depends on how many short trips I take. It has been mostly like that since it was new. I ran a Banks chip for quite some time and never lost any mileage, but gained some nice power. I did see some improvement with the addition of some rv 275 injectors, both power and some mileage. The mileage mostly occurred while towing the 5th wheel.

Just curious as to how you calculated that 3/4 tank. Did you fill it up and get the gallons or just figure you burnt near 27 gallons by the gauge? The gauges on these truck are not very accurate by just reading the gauge.

I just changed my fluid while installing the fast coolers I bought 3 years ago. Had about 70k on the fluid and it was just a bit darker than the new fluid, Penzoil Synchromesh. I have read many threads about different fluids making the shifting better. I guess what I dont get is I never had any trouble shifting mine. I can shift pretty much as fast as I want to.

I would have to agree with the above.

I went and looked at my soon to be installed wiring harness. The map and iat both branch out of the harness at the same place. They are only about 6" to 8". It has got to be right there unless you cut it off. You also should replace the sealing washers on the return line. They are probably shot. Might have been the reason for your original hard starting.

DVM=digital volt meter. I have never had to calibrate the oe style. I believe it is detailed in the FSM(factory service manual. I dont remember it being dificult. hopefully some one will help us with a simple explanation.

I want to emphasize not letting the fumes get to the engine and/or the grid heaters. The fumes are extremely flammable and can cause severe damage if ignited.

I have heard remans are marked. I guess mine was, it had a Blue Chip diesel sticker on the original cover. I bought his stealth cover form him and removed the one with the sticker. Some folks say the remans are painted black, mine is not, though it is silver and black. so I dont know how you can tell. My OE went out and 75K.

You could use brake cleaner on the turbo while the engine is running. Just be sure to take the intake loose from the intake horn and let the what comes from the inter cooler vent to the atmosphere. Don't let it get near the grid heaters. Or just don't worry about it.

State taxes drives that one. But diesel not coming down with gas prices just ain't right.

the IAT is directly behind the MAP and has the black plastic extension you are speaking of. You should not have to clean either unless you have and exhaust brake and then it is questionable at best. both of the sensors in your photos are pressure sensors.

For what it is worth I ran a K&N for years and while it is not a good thing some of my oil staining is still there. The truck still runs fine and you have not permanently damaged any thing.

The revving you are speaking of is what mine did when the ECM crapped out, though I had a lot more codes than you. From what I know about the oe bell crank assembly it comes with the oe style TPS and has to be calibrated with a DVM, not sure just thinking out loud. I think I would start with the TPS and work that problem out first and hope it is no the ECM.

when my oe lift pump went dodge replaced it with the in tank version and I thought it must be better than oe. I ran it for a year or more before I started having problems, some bucking and dead pedal. I knew zero about this fuel system and waited a while to take to anyone. When I finally did several months later is when I discovered how low my FP was. I would also assume that it had been low for a while. I did install a booster pump to get the pressure up and my problems went away. It was another 3 years before I saw any further problems. It was then I replaced my lift pump and VP. All this time without a FP gauge. What I am driving at is if you have to drive the truck, install the new oe style pump and use it. At the least invest $75 and install a gauge and monitor the pressure and start saving for a better one. Mine ran for quite a while and yours might also, but there is just no way to know. One thing we do know is if the VP goes, the truck does not. It is a bit of a crap shoot.

I sanded mine clear coat and applied some from a rattle can. Made the roof much nicer. Gonna do the hood one day soon. I did not fix any of the scratches but it still looks 100% better than it did.

My clear coat on the hood did fail along with the roof of the truck. Me thinks it is more the sun than the heat of the engine. My 02 came with no insulation from the factory.

Both rides very nice!

Same thing here, gas is down 50 60 cents a gallon and diesel is down about a dime a gallon.