dripley

They also have the complete control arms. It says complete with hardware but I can find no list of said hardware to know if they are included.

Is this what you are looking for? found under a 97. I cant find them listed for my 02 however. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2453356&cc=1095904 - - - Updated - - - This is one part I have not addressed in my front end.

I would have to agree with MnTom. Pretty cool stuff.

Can you not just make an extension with the proper gauge wire and connectors? My Isspro came in 3 parts. The thermo couple with about 1" of fairly stiff wire(assuming that is protected from the heat), the sending unit with about 2' of wire IIRC, and an extension about 76" long.

I just tried it with my 02 and all it does is run the cluster diagnostics. Mine only displays the trouble codes with the key on off trick. - - - Updated - - - I just tried it with my 02 and all it does is run the cluster diagnostics. Mine only displays the trouble codes with the key on off trick.

The whole pre bled units are time savers. The parts can be purchase separately and bled. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/54-hydraulic-clutch-master-and-slave-replacement When mine went i knew nothing of all this. I went and bought a master cylinder and replaced mine. I thought it real strange there appeared to be no where to bleed it, so I just filled with fluid and installed it loosing fluid the whole time. Got it together and had to pump alot to get it to work. Had to do that for 2 or 3 weeks before it got back to normal. Replaced the slave about 2 years later but it had a bleeder screw on it and was easy to work with. I see you said the clutch will work fine one time and not the next. Again exactly how mine behaved. It would also try and creep forward at a stop sign or light on occasions as the pressure was leaking by. Just another symptom of leaking hydros

When my master went out all looked fine. Fluid was full and clean and no sign of a leak. It was leaking internally. It felt funny like yours and kept getting worse until one day it went to the floor and did not come back up.

You could jump it out and see if it works. At least confirm or eliminate the switch as the problem.

I am feeling the love all the way in NC. How bout you Mikey!!

I wasnt sure how the 12v were set up, just figured I would take a stab at it.

Could be a wheel speed sensor if you have 4 wheel ABS. Mine lit when the hub bearing went. I think that light is shared for both.

Is Mike making you work for your heat?

Welcome to the farm.

I understand not wanting a war when you are outnumbered:ahhh:, but differing opinions are a good thing for all. Keeps us all awake.

Says it will work. As long as your sensor will fit it. just put it in the PTO cover. I am going to install one on mine whenever I find my Fast Coolers. I know they are here somewhere.:think:I have to agree with Mike on the EGT gauge. It is much more important.

Thats a crappy combo, wet snow, sleet then high wind. Hope every one is OK.

I like that. Especially the roll over. 90* was not enough, they had to get the other 270*.

I have read a good bit of that thread before. In the very first post he says all he hauls is a 40' goose neck trailer with a case loader and all together they weigh 25k pounds. Now add about 8k for the truck and what ever he carries and he is 10k to 13k overweight depending on his rear end gearing. Now if he has alot of performance mods thats just that much more torque he is pushing thru the driveline and something is going to give. Even with regular service, thats pretty abusive. He even stated the tranny was alomost full but the fluid was burnt black. Now I am running about 3k overweight myself. Cruising level ground in 6th I am only using 12% to 15% throttle to hold speed. On a 2% grade I can still accelerate with out using full throttle. I try and keep it 50% or less and down shift if I need more up a grade. The only time I did not use it was when it was new. And that was because the truck would not pull me up any kind of grade until the engine broke in. I am on my second 5600. The first one got stuck in 4th gear and when I finally jerked it out it would not go back in. I also had trouble with it jumping out of 1st and reverse and occasionally 6th. I did a poor job of servicing the tranny and have to take the blame for that. That happened around 253k. The second one came from a wrecking yard with 52k according to them. I have put another 5ok on it and it is working fine so far. So I will keep using 6th for towing and I am taking better care of this one.

I ran a booster pump with my in tank pump for near 4 years and it worked fine. I did this about 7 years ago and was pretty ignorant about fuel pressure at the time. I did not have a FP gauge either, just connected a test gauge to it and it always sat around 17# at idle, did not know anything about WOT pressure at the time. I have to agree there is something wrong with what you have now. Air leak, regulator spring or such. Would not hurt to check it out and find the problem. The Fass by itself should be more than enough pump when working properly.

I have the single disk valair and other that being a little grabby on launch it has been a good clutch. Holds fine with the 5th wheel. My stocker did the same as yours around 200k and it turned out to be the hydros and not the clutch itself. Replaced the master and drove it 2+ years before replacing the plate. Maybe your hydros have just failed.

Yes to the above.

Although I have never removed my manifold I have removed the turbo and from that it appears to me that the exhaust manifold should come off from above. I would recommend removing the turbo and not let it hang on the down pipe. All of that should come off from above. If I am wrong someone will correct me. - - - Updated - - - Although I have never removed my manifold I have removed the turbo and from that it appears to me that the exhaust manifold should come off from above. I would recommend removing the turbo and not let it hang on the down pipe. All of that should come off from above. If I am wrong someone will correct me.

When did you purchase your AD Hex?

I usually tow in 6th on the interstates and similar highways around 65 to 70 in 6th. I pull a 5th wheel at 15k. I try and keep the throttle to a max of 50%. I have been doing that since it was new without any issues. Now some of the hill country I end up in wont let me do that, but for the most part I always use 6th gear. 65 if 5th is nerve racking turning all that rpm. Thats just me I guess.