dripley

The PCM controls the auto tranny, but it does this with the info the ECM feeds it from the various other sensors. If you put a manual ECM on an auto the PCM does not get that info because the ECM thinks there is a manual on the truck. That is a very simplistic explanation and my understanding of how it works. There are far smarter people than I that will come along and explain it in further detail and maybe tell me I am full of it. In which case I will go stand in the corner with my funny hat on. There are no dumb questions here other than the one you dont ask. So welcome the the farm. You wont be sorry you came. On a side note, are you still running the oe lift pump?

Welcome to the forum. I am a 2nd gen guy and dont know much about 3rd gens let alone the 6.7's. Post this over in the CR forum ad you will probably get better exposure. Again welcome.

When I installed my ADII I just used the fitting that was supposed to go into the VP and put it in the filter canister, then installed a big line kit to the VP. It was quite simple. Everything I needed came with both kits.

Very happy with mine. It is great when towing plus I use mine daily driving also. Saves on the brakes even then.

Yes I did. But I did install a big line kit from Vulcan and eliminated the stock line(still have on a shelf in the shop).This is what I did Installed a tapped tee into the 1/2" line.

I am glad I fought mine back when I did. It seems the problems started with ownership change.

Mine had a short length of rubber hose between the canister and the VP from the factory. Still have it.

The AD II came with the compete wiring harness including fuse and relay. I can see what it is tomorrow while its daylight. All I had to do was install it. It has been on the truck 2 1/2 to 3 years. No issues with it so far.

Welcome back, look forward to the pics. I have seen several things they cut cars up with even with you in them. Pretty amazing stuff.

My AD II is wired thru a relay with the oe harness used for the trigger. It seems what I have read is the problem lies in the seals failing and letting diesel into places it does not belong. Again, no experience with them, just what I have read.

Fass still makes a good system I hear. I have read the Assassin has been having problems of late. Seems the fuel boss is working pretty good. AD is the only one I have any hands on experience with. I bought mine long before the company was sold however. I have seen where AD claims to have solved there issues in their newer pumps, but it seems they keep handing out what ever inventory they have for warranty or the problem is not resolved.

I recently had to disconnect my Banks unit and the pyro and boost gauges will not work with out it. I am installing some separate gauges so that never happens again. Its all a matter of how you want to do it. Good prices, but as Hex mentioned, no warranty. They are both good products and should have a good life span, but they are used and might last 5 years or 5 hours. All depends on your comfort level with used parts and your budget also.

Mine SD is not as old school as Mike's, but still purchased before the new owners messed it up. I adjusted the pressure once after install and have not had to touch since except for filters.

Mine came on it when new.

Dont stand behind the table saw.

It is a great discussion. I have seen people claim the mileage Dorkweed is getting. Not knowing them made the info doubtful. I do feel I am seeing honest numbers here. I too wish I could get the same numbers but I dont think after 12 years I will see any change. I just drive the way I drive.

Just foes to show there are some honest repair shops out there. Refreshing to here of one.

Weird huh!! Welcome YabbaDoo. This site has saved my bacon more than once.

That whole list was hilarious. Every one I read reminded me something brainy I had done with each every tool on the list. Still got tear in my eyes.

I have always used the old green stuff. Never been that brand loyal. The last I used came from wally world. You'll probably get a lot of different opinions on this though.

Are the O-rings on the sockets still on or intact? If they are missing or damaged moisture could be getting in there.

I dont use anything on mine and they are always tight when I take them loose again. You could use loctite on them, but I have not found it to be necessary. As far as the in tank pump, you cant turn it up but you can throw it away. The best option is to replace it with something more reliable and if you dont have a FP gauge, get one. The sooner the better.

I average 25k a year. About 4500 towing the 15k 5th wheel, maybe another 4k with material for the job, and the remainder with the truck around 7400#. When working on the east coast I see very little in the way of steep grades of any length. For the past 2.5 years I have been back on the west side of the blue ridge mountains and see a lot of grades to climb. Almost no dirt roads, mostly interstate miles. The first five years in stock configuration, the past 7 with the Banks set up. I have always been jealous of Dorkweed's mileage on tires, but after reading AH64Id's mileage I feel pretty lucky. I am about midway between ya'll. Michelins get me around 60k, Pirelli Scorpians and a Cooper highway tread got me about 40k each. I am on a set of Cooper ATP's and I might get 50k out of them. For the price they will probably be the best i have bought on a cost per mile basis. I know a lot of things effect tire wear and I do hot rod around some. I am also guilty of leaving 80 psi in the tires after a trip with the 5th wheel. I am doing a better job on the air pressure with my current set, but wont see what Mr. weed is getting with his. So I guess I am still jealous of Joe, but not envious of John.

The block does have to stay there, but you can disconnect the old fuel lines since you will be installing a different lift pump.

I should have put some smileys in that. I did not take it that way at all. Its all about how you want your truck to look. If you want your truck level while empty, go for it. A lot of folks like them that way. I personally like the forward rake while empty and a level stance while loaded. Mine came new with the same blocks in the rear you apparently have. If you put 33's on there it will still set level. Remove the front spacers and it will have the forward rake to it.