dripley

Thats where the oe lift pump would have been. There is a hole in the block for a mechanical pump. I blieve that is a hold over from the 12v engines. The block seals the hole, so it has to stay there. Since you have the intank pump, there should be a fuse and a relay on the firewall just to the right of the clutch master cylinder. Might check and see if either is blown.

Careful now. I have stock 265 75r 16's on mine and it looks fine. Mine is just not leveled like yours. I would not like the squatted look when I put a load on it.

Anybody with enough cash can rent a truck, no experience necessary!!

You could try putting 12v straight to the pump and see if it runs and you get fuel out of it. Have you ever checked for codes? - - - Updated - - - You could try putting 12v straight to the pump and see if it runs and you get fuel out of it. Have you ever checked for codes?

Aaaaaa, negative. Afraid to look now.

He's darn luck the trailer did not slide off the hill and take him with it.

:iagree:I would have to agree with the above. Though I dont know much about the 5 speed. I had one for about 2.5 years but it was attached to a V10 gasser and would not pull the trailer in 5th except on flat ground.I do have a set of Fast coolers for mine but I cant find them. Whaa!! Whaa!! Whaa!!

I get the noise in 4th more so than any other gear(1200 to 1400 rpm) and not in neutral. But I have a Valair and not the OFE. I dont know how different they are.

I pull my 5th wheel in 6th gear as long as I can pull it at half throttle. Once I start loosing speed I will downshift. My last trip was from Terre Haute and think the only time I had to use 5th was in the 55 mph zones. Definitely pretty flat out that way and I was pulling 15k pounds. You probably wont even know your trailer is back there. Just take your time and drive however you are most comfortable with. Stopping is always whats on my mind when towing. - - - Updated - - - I need to add keeping an eye on your gauges, EGT and ECT mainly. I made my last trip thru the Blue Ridge mountains with my Banks tuner removed and it did behave differently. The tuner protected me from higher temps and I noticed I had to watch them more closely. If they started to climb I backed out a little to keep them under control. This was while crossing the mountains and the rest of the trip thru the foothills and flatlands was pretty normal.

Always thought it a little strange myself, but I guess they did not ask for our vote on how to do it.

My 02 has the CAD. some of the early 02's have them. I bought mine in October of 01.

I would think it would be on the pump somewhere, not sure where though. Never had any cause to need it.

I have a drainage ditch along the road in my front yard. I just drive in it with the passenger side down and fill it thru the filler hole.

I like my exhaust brake for tailgaters. Just wish I could see there eyes as the tailgate blocks there entire windshield.

What I read was to get more oil to the rear of the tranny for the bearings. Read enough to convince me it would not hurt anything. Had the taranny continued in the trucks longer Dodge and/or New Venture might have been an advocate of the extra quart too. But we will never know since it was discontinued. I see it as cheap insurance on an expensive transmission.

I bought mine from Advance Auto. Dont remember brand or part #. I just asked for one that fit my truck and put that one on. I have the valair clutch and I think 3800# pressure plate for 2.5 years with no leaks so far. You definitely feel the difference between the oe and the Valair, especially stuck in traffic.

Your VP will be much happier with good fuel pressure and last longer. As far as MAP and APPs codes, I would not think the fuel pressure would have anything to do with it.

Its the diesel fumes. Stick around and it might happen to you.

Install is not difficult at all. Mike has a good article on replacement http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/126-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-replacement. Blue Chip Diesel has one also http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44_install.html. They are both good articles and will walk you right thru it.

I like it. I dont however enjoy the 10* temp swings as MnTom mentioned.

A decent set of hand tools is about all I ever carry. If something breaks I would not have the right part more than likely. I know others who do carry some spares, but its just not worth it to me.

Mine acted very similar when the ECM crapped out. It would idle but surge like it had a mind of its own,rev very slowly no matter how far you pushed the throttle, and a lot more codes than you have. Pretty much undriveable.I would think it is the ECM, but lets see what some of the other folks have to say. I like all the confirmation I can get when a part is that pricey.

I appreciate the input. I have used the the clamp on style in the past and never liked them. Thats why I was looking into the solder on style. I replaced the passenger side negative a couple years back with a crimp on and it has held up well. My other negative is developing a crack and needs replacing soon. Just want to be sure and get the right size. I figured replacing the positives might be a good idea while I was in there.

welcome.