dripley

They are all low voltage codes except for the 532, could not find that one. When mine went I had low and high voltage codes on many of the sensors and the temp gauge would peg 10 seconds after starting the engine. Are the batteries and charging system up to par? - - - Updated - - - That would be ECM failure. You can look them up herehttp://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes. Maybe someone else has some input, but I would think its most likely toasted. The odd thing about mine was it never spit out the 606 code, but a new one fixed it. Not sure what to think about the spare one though.

p 606 by any chance?

The relay in the PDC is for the VP. Not sure how to eliminate the code.

Welcome sir.

Welcome. I built a Burger King in Maryville about 30 years ago.

Welcome.

How about a list of codes you got. What you describe is what my truck did when the ECM went. Does the truck the spare ecm came off of run fine?

I disconnected the e-brake and no change in the temp readings except it did hold around 180 most of the way home. Fluctuated between 184 and 179, not to unusual.No swings down low on this trip, but have seen that in the past also. It dropped to 170 when I pulled into the grocery store parking lot and I read the sensor with my dvm at 1.107 ohms. That seems to match the IAT sensor chart Mike has, I believe the IAT and ECT work the same. In my brilliant moment I forgot to look at the mechanical temp gauge to see what it was reading. I did just walk out to the truck and look at the mech gauge and it read 150(been sitting in the driveway for 45 minutes) so I started the engine and the scan gauge actually agreed with the mech gauge. Not sure what to think about that, it is the first time I have seen them agree. Makes me think I am not watching that mech gauge as well as I should be. I have an electric tranny temp gauge. Will it work the same as an engine temp gauge? If so I could hook it up and see it in the cab and watch it more closely. So for now I will leave the e-brake disconnected and see if it holds steady for the trip back to work. If so I will hook it up for the return home and see if the fluctuation comes back.

My 02 came with the keyless entry as an option.

Did the newer clutch solve your problem? Mine did get a lot better, but is still jerky with the fifth wheel on launch and low speed maneuvering while parking. That is unless I can just let the clutch all the way out.

I will look and see it it will fit there, not sure the hole is large enough. No high idle on my truck but the e-brake taps the signal wire for temp reading. The problem predates the e-brake install.

I have seen complete kits before for adding key less entry. I would be surprised if the truck came with all but the fob.

I replaced the sender a while back and at the time tested the sensor reading volts and not ohms. At one time I had a chart for volts=temp. but cant seem to find it any more. The time the sensor was reading properly at that time. I never checked it at the ECM. Mike has a chart for ohms posted here some where, I will round it up and try reading both ends. The thing I dont quite understand is the swings in the readings. I would think with a bad wire/connector I would see the false reading but why the crazy swings. I have seen as much as a 40* swing just riding down the interstate at a constant speed. My exhaust brake is tied into the ect sensor pigtail. On cold start up it kicks on and is supposed to shut off at 140*. The scan gauge is showing it cut off at 118* every time and the mechanical gauge is reading right at 140*. This makes me agree with what you are saying about the sensor or wiring being the issue, the swings baffle me.

I am running the smaller one right now. It appears to be the same though I did not have time to research it. I was in a pinch at the time. It will not last as long however.

Maybe nobody want to say yes and find out they were wrong. I am pretty sure the door will work but dont know for sure due to the same concerns you bring up. Maybe some one else can help with that one. You could go to LMC truck and see what their catalog says. It might reference what years will interchange.

Let me add a little something to the mix. About 3 years ago when my ECM went out I got some advice from someone on how to trouble shoot the problems I was having. This involved cutting wires to check for shorts and what have you. I cut the wires on the ect sensor and at the ecm. Some other wires to the tps were also cut. I did spice all of these back together and the temp gauge problem was there prior to the cutting of the wires, though not to the extreme they are now. I replaced the pigtail on the ect and soldered everything. Greased and shrink wrapped all of it also. The ecm connections are butt spliced with heat shrink splices and dielectric grease. I would have thought if the connections were going bad I would have more resistance and show higher temps instead of lower temps. I am an electrical neophyte and am basing this on the lower voltage from the sensor equaling higher temps.

I know the fender will from 94 to 02, except the 02 1500. I dont know about the door.

Just unplug the the pig tail to it. I dont believe it will trip the CEL. Wont take much to find out.

My brother has had a couple in his life and says they were no fun, they both passed on their own. Happy to hear beer has a good side effect going for it. I should be free of them for life. Sorry to hear of your problem though and hope it all gets work out.

Mine was driveable but there was no finessing the clutch. When it it came time to go you just had to let it out quickly or it would really be jerky. It shifted fine, launches were rough if you eased it out. It is still jerky with the RV in tow at low speeds in the rv park but is manageable.

I did not know this when I had mine done and the clutch was very grabby when new. Really had to put some wear and tear on it to get it to calm down.

I had mine resurfaced and the man who installed my clutch told me it looked great when it went in. Unfortunately I was too far away to look at it before install. He seemed fairly trust worthy and also helped me out with the ECM replacement. Got me one thru Dodge with a warranty from them for about $1300 as I remember. You will want to have yours resurfaced before installing the new clutch. I believe that cost me around $100.

I have to agree with both of you on the beer.:cheers:mmmmmm!!

Some of you will remember my thread on my engine over cooling problem that turned out to be the gauge reading improperly. It got worse some time after that and started affecting the way the truck ran. I am going to be tearing into it pretty soon and want to see if any you might have experienced anything like this or just have some suggestions. At the time I was lucky to see the low 170's on the gauge. As long as it stayed there every thing worked fine but some times it would drop into the high 160's and the Banks chip would start operating weakly. The low 160's and it got worse and the gauges(pyro and boost)would act up a little. Some times it would drop into the 150's and below. At these low readings the gauges would just drop out and the Banks would just stop working. I bought a Scan Gauge II and it is reading the same temps as the gauge. There is no rhyme or reason to the temp swings. It can do it while cold or hot outside. Cruising down the interstate reading in the 170.s and then slowly drop into the 140;s or somewhere in between. I installed a mechanical gauge under the hood and anytime I look at it, it reads near 190 no matter what the gauge says. It is installed about midway in one of the plugs in the head. I took voltage readings at the sensor and the sender is putting out the right signal, it is just going crazy somewhere between the sender and the gauge. It finally got to where the gauge would not hardly get out of the the 160's and the Banks chip got so erratic I took it out thinking maybe that was causing. The temps on the gauge did go up on average about 8* but it still swings up and down. I have had this problem for quite some time and it has slowly gotten worse to the state it is in now. Cant seem to find anyone who has had this problem any where and thought I would throw it out here. With all the new members maybe one of you might have experienced it.

Pretty simple. Tap the fuel line somewhere of your choice after your last filter. Install a needle valve to protect the gauge and run a line from it to the gauge. The only power you need is for the light. I also installed a big line kit from the oe canister to the VP at the same time, tapped that line for my gauge. I am going to swap out to the polyon tubing Mike is using on day in the futurel