dripley

I have never come anywhere close to 90K on mine. Routinely around 23k when towing and the clutch has never slipped. This was a weird experience. I would also think new clutch if this was not a one time experience and I could not make it slip as hard as I tried going up and over the mountains. The only other times it and the oe ever slipped was when my big foot was resting on the clutch. Going to move the 5th wheel pretty soon and will just have to see what happens. Thats what cause it to slip the first time. I have a bad habit of leaving my toe on the clutch pedal and heal on the floor. It is a bad habit I have always had going up thru the gears of this and all others I have had. My #14 work boots do classify as Franken boots.

I was on my way to vist my brother today and while accelerating the clutch slipped in 5th. I realized my toe was on the clutch pedal and removed it right away and let off the throttle. Got back in the throttle(about 75%) and it slipped again. Did this 3 times in a row. Got done with my visit and took off to my daughter house. I had to drive across the mountains from Hickory nc to Johnson city Tn and never slipped the clutch once and I was trying to. The valair clutch is about 2.5 years old with about 65k on it. Anybody ever had this happen to them? It was strange,

That is what I am describing at key on. Mine only does it for a split second also, but it does move my gauge. I have heard others say up to 2 seconds and thats why I included it. I also agree that what the op is experiencing is not right. I just took your post to mean nothing should happen at key on. Did not mean to step on your toes. I have also heard that their's is the PCM and not the ECM. even though it is described as the ECM. A quick phone call would clear that up.

Merry Christmas to all the family here.

I liked the shovel ready myself.

The lift pump should prime briefly(up to 1 or 2 seconds) upon turning the key to the on position. It should run continuously for near 25 seconds when you bump the starter. Getting the codes read is a good idea also.

It should prime when the key is turned on with no delay. This is apparently an ECM issue from everything I have read. The ECM is not booting up properly.

Is your wait to start light delayed also?

That got shut down pretty quick.

I think the kid is going to have to go back to school to get his mind right.

Well I could not find the old manual oe mirror but I do have an after market power mirror. IIRC the mirrors attach the same. All I did was reach in with with a thin bladed slotted screw driver and popped the tabs off of the inner part of the mirror. It cam off very easily.

70* her this am. Still warm and raining this pm.

I ran my AD thru the filter housing also with the big line kit from Vulcan. They are all petty similar.

When my ECM went out, every diagnostic i tried showed the sensor was bad. Every sensor, not just the apps.. A replacement ECM fixed it. With that being said if all seems normal with the appps disconnected it might be the problem. If you are willing to gamble on a $180 part to see versus an $1800 ecm, get a Timbo apps and if it does not cure it you will at least have a better than oem part. Borrowing from Mike a little, this is a personal opinion.

Many a day I wish I had done that. Especially with 8 or more gas pumps open.

Man, shipping on that oil tank is unreal. $32 for 5 to 13 day shipping. 2 to 8 days $48. Whoa!!!!!!!!!

I believe the 01.5 and 02 manual trannys have the electronic cruise and the early 01's have the vacuum operated cruise. Does you 01 have rear disc brakes?

I believe by the picture he does not need to worry about any air getting to his waste gate. A boost elbow would however make sure it opens before he tries to push to much air thru the turboo. 35 psi is the most that turbo is going to handle, HX or HY that is.

There is a difference of near 5.5" in the diameter of the 265 versus the 235. The 265 will reduce your rpm and should help with mileage, how much I dont know. Others are better versed in this than I. The bigger around the tire the lower your rpm's will be.

I have Cooper ATP's from Discount Tire. I think they are supposed to be the same tire, little different tread pattern however. I am definitely not going to get the same mileage. 50 maybe 55 k is all I will see. 65k is the best I have ever seen and that was on the oe Michelin's. the coopers were a lot cheaper at around $850 for the set. So I am not totally unhappy about the mileage. They have been a good tire, just wish I could see the mileage you are getting.

My work takes me to many different places and using the same station all the time is a no go for me. I do tend to stick with station brands as long as they are available, if not you gotta take what you can get sometimes. I have used the high and low flow at most of them. Knock on wood, I have had any problems in the 12 years I have the truck. No excessive fuel filter changes either.

I took one off my old broken one a while back, so I know they will come off without being damaged. I will look and see if I still have it. Maybe that will let me remember how I did it.

Bought the wife a used Lincoln quite a few years back. It came with 2 key fobs that we could program for our seat settings. The wife, 4'10" tall and me 6'5" tall. When you pushed the door unlock button the seat would go to the fob's settings. I used to really enjoy clicking my fob when the wifey was about to drive off. She had a much better sense of humor then though I did get some plumb ugly looks.

Just remember, Cardone does not rebuild the pumps. They get them from the same folks as others do. I dont believe that even that even Cardone would give a lifetime warranty on a VP. I also do not believe that Bosch will allow a certified rebuilder to use other than Bosch parts for a rebuild. I remember a couple of articles about a deburring issue on a sleeve for a piston that has been resolved a good while back. That part of my memory is a bit fuzzy. So in a nut shell DAP or Vulcan is not going to get the pump from Cardone. I have dealt with both DAP and Vulcan and they are both top notch vendors.

I noticed when I had my tank removed that there is corrosion on all the lines between the tank and the frame rail. I have been looking at the copper/nickle brake line to replace the brake line that is corroded. Maybe this could be used in place of the line that is there for the fuel return. The copper nickel line is supposed to be bendable without tools or kinking. I would think it is fuel friendly, but do not know this for sure. If it is you should be able to remove the bad and replace it with something new and just clamp it in place. Years ago I installed a booster pump on my fuel system, cut it into the fuel line on the frame rail and clamped rubber fuel line onto the cut ends of the steel fuel line with hose clamps and it did not leak for 5+ years. that line was under about 17# psi and I believe the return line is under less pressure than that.