dripley

Merry Christmas to all the family here.

I liked the shovel ready myself.

The lift pump should prime briefly(up to 1 or 2 seconds) upon turning the key to the on position. It should run continuously for near 25 seconds when you bump the starter. Getting the codes read is a good idea also.

It should prime when the key is turned on with no delay. This is apparently an ECM issue from everything I have read. The ECM is not booting up properly.

Is your wait to start light delayed also?

That got shut down pretty quick.

I think the kid is going to have to go back to school to get his mind right.

Well I could not find the old manual oe mirror but I do have an after market power mirror. IIRC the mirrors attach the same. All I did was reach in with with a thin bladed slotted screw driver and popped the tabs off of the inner part of the mirror. It cam off very easily.

70* her this am. Still warm and raining this pm.

I ran my AD thru the filter housing also with the big line kit from Vulcan. They are all petty similar.

When my ECM went out, every diagnostic i tried showed the sensor was bad. Every sensor, not just the apps.. A replacement ECM fixed it. With that being said if all seems normal with the appps disconnected it might be the problem. If you are willing to gamble on a $180 part to see versus an $1800 ecm, get a Timbo apps and if it does not cure it you will at least have a better than oem part. Borrowing from Mike a little, this is a personal opinion.

Many a day I wish I had done that. Especially with 8 or more gas pumps open.

Man, shipping on that oil tank is unreal. $32 for 5 to 13 day shipping. 2 to 8 days $48. Whoa!!!!!!!!!

I believe the 01.5 and 02 manual trannys have the electronic cruise and the early 01's have the vacuum operated cruise. Does you 01 have rear disc brakes?

I believe by the picture he does not need to worry about any air getting to his waste gate. A boost elbow would however make sure it opens before he tries to push to much air thru the turboo. 35 psi is the most that turbo is going to handle, HX or HY that is.

There is a difference of near 5.5" in the diameter of the 265 versus the 235. The 265 will reduce your rpm and should help with mileage, how much I dont know. Others are better versed in this than I. The bigger around the tire the lower your rpm's will be.

I have Cooper ATP's from Discount Tire. I think they are supposed to be the same tire, little different tread pattern however. I am definitely not going to get the same mileage. 50 maybe 55 k is all I will see. 65k is the best I have ever seen and that was on the oe Michelin's. the coopers were a lot cheaper at around $850 for the set. So I am not totally unhappy about the mileage. They have been a good tire, just wish I could see the mileage you are getting.

My work takes me to many different places and using the same station all the time is a no go for me. I do tend to stick with station brands as long as they are available, if not you gotta take what you can get sometimes. I have used the high and low flow at most of them. Knock on wood, I have had any problems in the 12 years I have the truck. No excessive fuel filter changes either.

I took one off my old broken one a while back, so I know they will come off without being damaged. I will look and see if I still have it. Maybe that will let me remember how I did it.

Bought the wife a used Lincoln quite a few years back. It came with 2 key fobs that we could program for our seat settings. The wife, 4'10" tall and me 6'5" tall. When you pushed the door unlock button the seat would go to the fob's settings. I used to really enjoy clicking my fob when the wifey was about to drive off. She had a much better sense of humor then though I did get some plumb ugly looks.

Just remember, Cardone does not rebuild the pumps. They get them from the same folks as others do. I dont believe that even that even Cardone would give a lifetime warranty on a VP. I also do not believe that Bosch will allow a certified rebuilder to use other than Bosch parts for a rebuild. I remember a couple of articles about a deburring issue on a sleeve for a piston that has been resolved a good while back. That part of my memory is a bit fuzzy. So in a nut shell DAP or Vulcan is not going to get the pump from Cardone. I have dealt with both DAP and Vulcan and they are both top notch vendors.

I noticed when I had my tank removed that there is corrosion on all the lines between the tank and the frame rail. I have been looking at the copper/nickle brake line to replace the brake line that is corroded. Maybe this could be used in place of the line that is there for the fuel return. The copper nickel line is supposed to be bendable without tools or kinking. I would think it is fuel friendly, but do not know this for sure. If it is you should be able to remove the bad and replace it with something new and just clamp it in place. Years ago I installed a booster pump on my fuel system, cut it into the fuel line on the frame rail and clamped rubber fuel line onto the cut ends of the steel fuel line with hose clamps and it did not leak for 5+ years. that line was under about 17# psi and I believe the return line is under less pressure than that.

I might have to agree on the gauge going bad. I have had mine on for about 2 years and have it adjusted to read full pressure in about 1 to 2 seconds. It still reads good today, I will be interested in why or where your return is leaking. Look forward to your new thread on the subject.

Might try the 200 and see if the dash gauges recognizes it.

Do you do this before and after connecting the terminals, or just after they are connected?