dripley

I wish I still had the receipt, I just know when I bought it it was very reasonable. I paid around $75 for the BHAF from Vulcan 3 years or so ago and was surprised at the 6637 price when I bought it. Who actually manufactures this filter? My sticker says Dura Lube. The same as was on the one I got from Vulcan.

I finally got time to change out my leaking(severely that is)tappet cover gasket. I just made a 1600 mile round trip and went thru near 5 quarts of oil. While in the past I have removed every thing form the drivers side of the engine at different time, it was the first time I ever had to remove all of them at once. Pretty much stripped everything on the drives side to gain good access to the block. The only thing I left on was the fuel lines for 3, 4, and 6. Just did not want to mess with the lines at the head. They did get in the way a little but not to bad. It was also the first time I dd the VP by myself. Of everything I dealt with, that worried me the most. It all went back together fine. Primed the fuel system and got her running in about 5 minutes. Took her for a test drive and pulled into a parking lot and found one leaking fuel line at the head. A quick turn of the wrench, problem solved. The beautiful thing was no puddle of oil like I have been seeing for a while now. When got the tappet cover off I was surprised to see how bad of condition it was in. It was completely hard and had cracks in it all the way around. When I took it off the biggest piece that came off was about 6" long. The rest of it came off in 1" to 2" pieces. I probably spent no more than 1 hour removing the cover, the gasket, cleaning it up, installing the new gasket, and bolting the tappet cover back on out of the 2 days I worked on it. For now it was all worth it. Keeping my fingers crossed I installed it well and they will be no problems until this one goes out. I did have 2 glitches with the install. #1 When I took the filter canister our I disconnected the fuel line and wedged the fuel line up in the fire wall somewhere. Evidently I knocked it loose, then tool a break and ate some lunch. When I came back out and started back to work I dropped a bolt. Thats when I noticed the fuel line on the ground dribbling fuel. Got it back up and zipped tied it up. Since the ground was wet from the morning rain I just did not see it. I could not tell you why I did not smell it. I noticed a fair amount of wetness this morning and noticed it was green. Lit a paper towel and put in the small puddle and the puddle caught on fire and burned for an hour . After getting the truck up and running it looks like I lost about 6 or 7 gallons of diesel. I bring this up not for the cost of the diesel but you just dont need to pour it on the ground. Its just not a good thing to do. The other problem is now my Scan Gauge does not work. It was working fine before but is dead as a door nail now. Not sure what is going on there, and I ran out of time today to look into it. I am open to suggestions though. Any way I want to thank all of you here who continue to give me confidence to tackle projects like this. I have by far done more things to this vehicle than any I have owned before. Yall have allowed me to learn and pass it on to others for there benefit. The chicken man and his truck say THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!! I am no longer lubricating everything I drive on.

I bought the 6637 at my local napa about 6 or 8 months ago for about $30.Just walked in off the street. When I pulled up your link and priced it, it was $65. No way I would pay $65 for the 6637, maybe the 2790.

From what I have read it sounds like the pump is gone. You could remove the motor and see if it is full of diesel. Heard of a lot of seal failures. How old is the pump? Did Josh hang up on you at 4pm or did yall disconnect voluntarily? I keep hearing about both good and bad customer service from them and they do have some bad pumps out there. I have had mine for near 3 years with no issues, so I have not had to deal with them on any issues.

I never saw any increase in mpg with the large one or the small one. They do flow good and last a long time.

My first truck was a 68 Chevy with 3 on the tree. Cost me $600.

The fuel system does not hold any pressure. When you turn the engine off all pressure is lost. If you have an air leak somewhere it will allow the fuel to drain back to the tank. That is most likely your issue. If you can park the truck with the nose down and see if the problem persists. Also the next time you have the hard start, just let your fuel pump cycle instead of staying on the starter. Try that once or twice and see if it helps. Both are sure signs of air getting into the fuel system.

Even when mine was new it was hard to warm up in cold weather. I have sat at lights and watched t drop 20* rather quick in really cold weather. On short trips to work in the morning(10 miles of less)with stop and go driving I would never see 190*. The only way I found to get up to temp was to drive on the highway and eliminate the stop and go. This was without winter fronts and below freezing. It is not uncommon to see this.

Thats possible. Just remember that if that fuse blows and the pump quits running, the VP is pulling fuel on its own. That is not good for the VP at all. The VP is a $1000 part. Carry some spare fuses and if it does go again park until you can fix it properly.

Yes,it is to the right and not the left. The power for the pump can also come from the alternator. It was an alternate source of power listed in the instructions. That is how I connected mine.

I have liked my 6 speed since day one and 6th gear always just felt like another gear to me, though I try to run it at no more than 50% throttle with the 5th wheel on(15k #). The only experience I have with the 5 speed was on my 96 with the V10. It would only pull my other 5th wheel(12k #)on dead flat ground in 5th and I hardly ever used it while towing. Not sure that s a fair comparison. 5th on the gasser always felt like an OD, where as on the Cummins 6th just feels like another gear to me.

If the AD was wired with the supplied harness and by the instructions, the relay and the fuse sill mounted on the firewall on the driver side. You can see them both to the left of the clutch reservoir. The fuse is on the left and the relay on the right. If it is wired per the instructions to the original harness for the OE pump, there will be no power to the pump unless you turn the key on and bump the starter(no engine start) and then for only about 25 seconds. You can pull the harness from the pump and check for 12v there, but only after bumping the starter. Might need a helper unless you are quick . The only time you have constant 12v at the pump is when the engine is running.

There is a allowable amount of play. Mine has it and I dont notice that it is any different than when it was new. That was 12 years ago however. I am sure someone will tell us what is normal.

I cant speak for or against synthetic, but when you open it up, its all going to drain other than what sticks to the gears. Make sure you have a good size drain pan in case the cover pops off quickly.

I had to remove my Banks tuner, but still have the Banks exhaust housing and waste gate. The waste gate opens around 35 PSI. So when I get on it and the boost reaches about 22 PSI the engine defuels and sets an overboost code. I can keep it fueling if I keep the boost to around 20 PSI but that limits me to only about 70% throttle until I get the RPM up,

let me know how that one works out for you.

I believe you are correct. Great Stuff is spray foam insulation.

Will the Smarty do boost fooling.

I used RTV sealant, I think Great Stuff. The darn stuff was so sticky when I placed the cover in position it stayed there when I had to let go of it momentarily. It actually dd not move for about 45 seconds, just got tired of waiting for to move. Mike tells me the stuff I used will be a PTA to remove when I change it again, I guess time will tell. Any good sealant should do the job though. Be sure and clean the old sealant off completely. A razor blade and a scotch brite work very well.

I just crossed 299,500 coming back from Louisiana. Might have to look into the 300k. Headed back out on Sunday the 19th for Alabama with the 5'r in tow and should cross it then.

I ran Diesel Kleen for about 4 months several years ago and never noticed it did anything for me. I dont really see cold enough temps to run it for anti gelling. Supertech TC-W3 from wally world is very popular and I did notice a differnce with it. Just came off a 1650 mile round trip running 75 to 80 mph and a consistent 18.5 Mph. As far as the filters, it has never affected the filters adversely. I currently have 40k on the AD filter with no pressure drop from it. My filter in the factory canister probably has 60k or more on it.

I have used the 80w90 GL-5 in both the front and the rear for about 40k miles now with no ill effects. Mine is a LS and I added the friction modifier to mine. The oil did not come with it.

I believe Mike meant mechanical's do NOT rely on electronics.

Your VP truck does not have a fuel shut off solenoid. The 12 valve truck do. Earlier you stated the truck would auto accelerate. Does it go to red line or just rev up and down on its own?

potato's not wheat