dripley

I drove mine for a lot longer than I should have with out fixing it. Other than making everything oily and nasty and providing you keep tabs on your oil level, it did not hurt any thing mechanically. The last trip I made I was loosing a quart every 300 miles. Thats what pushed me over limit and I did have the time.

My aftermarket waste gate opens in the 32 to 24. I had to remove my chip that did the boost fooling and I now set a 234 and 236 if I stay in it much. It does start to defuel around 22 psi but runs fairly normal other than that.

Mine has always lit at 1/8th of a tank. When new I had 7 or 8 gallons left. After Dodge installed my in tank pump that went to 3 or 4 gallons at 1/8th of a tank. My vote is for 1/8th of a tank and the gallons depends on your fuel level sender. I run mine pretty low on long trips. I actually put 35 gallons in once. That was stretching a bit to far even for me.

I have been n your shoes before and understand. I just think it is crappy for them to install a seal like that and not install the sleeve at the same time since they had it open.

I would not disagree with that at all. Fully open return valve=full fuel flow. Even at 30 GPH thats a 1/2 a GPM thru that small bowl. It just did'nt seem that stagnant to me. Of course if something require 100 GPH and only gets 30, stagnant could be a fair description.

I understand the long hours. I see them more than I like. I got lucky and had a few days off with decent weather. The quart of oil I was going thru every 300 to 350 miles plus the footprint iwas leaving every where was the final straw. I noticed in your first post that you replaced the front crank seal. Did you or the dealer do that?

Looking at the first picture in post 44 it appears the fuel comes in the VP into the bowl on the right, thru the opening into the chamber on the left. The computer rests on top of these and all the fuel, for combustion and return, that goes thru the pump cools the computer. That is why I was wondering how stagnant the fuel could get.

Neither the 234 or 236 set the CEL on mine either, but it was quite obvious what was happening.

How really stagnant is the fuel going to be if the pump is bringing in 70% more fuel than it needs? I seem to remember that 70% of the fuel is returned to the tank.

If you are capable with a wrench and have time it is not difficult to do yourself.One member here said he did his in a little over half a day. Me, I spent 2 days. The VP is the part I was most careful with. The gasket is not expensive its the labor to take everything off to get to it that is.

AHID has it here also http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/best-content/ The first one is just shorter and easier to read. both very good info.

Try this http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/31-airdog-filter-numbers

Heat is any computers enemy from the home or the truck. Stray ac voltage is rough on the tucks computers. Not sure which got mine or if was something else.

Never found out what went wrong with. Had to send it in for a core. If you think what I paid was expensive go to the dealer and price. Near $2,000. I thought I got a pretty fair price. Anyway check this outhttp://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/6007-have-you-ever-wondered-what-is-inside-the-ecm-case/ I hope this is what you were wanting to see. Not sure of the total cost of the rebuild I tried to go with, but the cost of the ECM and all the down time with a car rental was well over the $2,000

Mine has always been full also. It can get messy. Our Dakota has a filter that is on about a 60* angle and its just a blast to take off.

Cover thine own arse for no else will. One of the mottos I live by. Thanks for the moon, Hex

I have not seen any in either of mine when changing. But mine usually sits overnight before changing. I dont think have ever just parked and pulled the cover.

Does the oil foam like that on its own under normal operation?

I take back my previous statement. You are the man as always. Nice job. Your humble servant, Cluck

Dodge or Cummins. I dont trust rebuilders of ECM's. Mine went out and I went that route with very poor results and a lot of down time, about 6 weeks. I just recently found out my ECM is from Cummins. I got it from a local mechanic in TN. The ECM and programming cost me about $1400. He did it in his shop, but I am not sure how the programming was done since there was no Dodge dealer in that town. Thats my worth on the subject.

To quote a friend of mine "WHAH, WHAH, WHAAAAAAHHHHHH!!!!

I just replaced mine and was surprised to how many leaks it made me think I had. I would leave several spots on the ground from across the front of the engine, down the driver's side to dripping off the bell housing, tranny, skid plate and what not. It started washing the underside with oil. The tappet cover gasket stopped it all.

X2^^

I am over boosting and you can feel a difference once I cross about 21 or 22#'s of pressure(engine defuelng) but it is not as big of a difference as I felt a month ago. I have no clue as to why. I drove down here on Sunday and drove the first half with my foot trying to keep the boost in the 20 psi range. My heel started hurting about then and I set the cruise. I started noticing boost pressure around 26 to 28 psi and she ran fine. Since unhitching it I can get 24 or 25 with no feeling of defueling. I cant explain that one. The only reason I am setting a code is not having a boost fooler. I would have to leave the in and outs of this to the more educated. The boot on the bottom right of the intercooler on mine is leaking. Was leaking pretty good at 10 psi when I tested it. So its probably leaking a lot at 20+ psi. I have new boots for it at the house but no time to fix it. Forgot them with my camera for the 300k thing I reckon. Thats another story though.

Thats why still live in the southeast and not the northwest. Its tough enough working on my own in the driveway. I dont own enough clothes to stay warm in that kind of weather.