dripley

Mine acts a lot like yours except 10* cooler(190* stat in mine). The first 7 years I drove it sat at 190* most all the time and hardly moved. The last 6 months it acts like yours. Prior to that mine was all over the place. Thats another story though. Do you work for a grading of pipe contractor? I just installed a boat load of underground retention using the same system you have in the back of your truck on the last Chick-fil-A I built.

I had my truck with the stock clutch and a Banks chip that added around 75hp. I pulled a 5th wheel and weighed a total of 19,500. The stock clutch held t just fine but was at ts limits and I dont tow that often. Maybe 5 or 6 times a year. Like Mike says call DAP and talk with him. A organic single is all you need. I run a Valair in mine.

2k rpm is a good cruising rpm. You are not going to hurt going higher. When I tow I regularly take it to 2400 2500 before shifting. I dont get any benefit going any higher even pulling long grades. Empty it just depends on how quick I want to get up to speed or how much of the 18 year old have in me that moment. Now i have a 6 speed with 3:54 gears and dont have to deal with the 4:10's like you. If I had them I would be seeing higher rpm on the long road trips I make. There is no way I could make a 600 mile trip home for the weekend at 60 mph. I am very glad I dont have them. Your mileage is going to suffer, but you are not going hurt it. Your best bet on on the gears would be to find a 3:54 rear end and just swap the whole thing. If you are 4X4 you have to swap both. I am sure others more knowledgeable than I will have plenty to add.

Have you tried cycling the lift pump? Just bump the starter(no engine start) and let the lift pump run. It runs for about 25 seconds. When mine was having the problem this would help a lot. Sometimes I would have to do it twice. I did not see any weeping at the head on mine either, but did have leaking at the return tee. When I took the return line off the back off the head the rubber sealing washers were hard. They looked like a regular washer and hard as a brick. I had to look at them with a bright light to be able to see the rubber, couldn't feel it with my fingers.

Ranks right up there with screamin beavers and wood.

You are welcome. Let us know it works for you.

I got mine from a Cummins dealer. Just told them what I needed and paid the man.

I had the same issue with mine. Replacing the sealing washers on the return off the back of the head and the orings in the return tee(where the two return lines join) stopped mine from doing it. When mine would hard start I could bump the starter and let it cycle once or twice and it would start no problem. From what I read here and elsewhere was that air getting into the system would allow fuel to flow back into the fuel tank from the high pressure side. I always figured if my lift pump can push fuel thru the VP that air in the system could let some of it out. I do know it sure fixed mine. Another thing I tried was parking the truck in a nose down position to elevate the tank and the few times I had some where to do that it seemed to work. No hard start when parked that way any how. Not saying this is definitely the problem, but it did fix mine.

Very much the same way me and my siblings were raised. We used to watch cartoons on Saturday mornings and then if you weren't out the door mom would be more than happy to show you where it was. Once out the door we were pretty much on our own. Just be sure you were home for supper. Then we were out until the street lights came on.

her is the thread I saw on installing zerks on the unit bearing. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/7879-just-did-front-brakes/#entry82535 It was Diesel4life. What he did is about halfway thru it.

I think it was Diesel4life that did that very thing. If not him, someone here did it.

Is this the one you are looking at?https://www.partswebsite.com/dodgeparts/?i=6#bottom It does say ECM on that page. The previous page says powertrain control. I would talk to them before I bought it. Ask them where it installs. Engine block or firewall. If they say firewall it not what you are looking for. I would also want to know who rebuilt it. I had a very bad experience with the rebuild route. Others have fared better.

I did a search there for a 99 ECM and while 21 items popped up under ECM, the description says module-powertrain control. That = PCM. Do you have a link for it?

I never lost any of the digit, Just a little meat and the fingernail grew back funny. When ever I changed the bandage I used chase my kids(3 and 5 at the time)pointing that finger at them. They run away screaming bloody murder. If they had only known that all they had to do was touch that finger and i would have been laying in the floor in pain. Slightest tap on that thing and the pain was excruciating.

That price is half of what I was quoted a while back when mine fried. Makes me wonder if they might be quoting a PCM instead of the ECM. The ECM just bolts to the side of the block with no separate ground wire.

Mine was a little sticky rather than wet. I wiped a good bit of mine off with a rag soaked in brake cleaner. But the picture could be my turbo. I did not have the same residue in the pipe to the inter cooler, or if there was any i could not feel it. I did on several occasions re oil the filter without cleaning it while in the filter box. K&N recommended in the instructions I believe.

I tried to do that with an electric miter box many years back. Didn't cut it off, just mitered the finger nail. One side of the nail had a beautiful 45 and the other like like hamburger meat with a smattering of blood. That one hurt like Hades. I have seen the table saw thing before and it does work. But I don't want to stick MY finger in there on purpose to test it.

I ran K&N on mine for a while and thats exactly what mine looked like.

I am up and down the highway every other week and buying at the same station is not always an option. Never have had any trouble with bad fuel, diesel anyway. Never had any gelling issues either, but I dont see the temps most of yall do as a steady diet. I am counting myself as fortunate.

When we were little, the old man would thump us on the back of the hand. In school back in the 60's we didn't get a warning. They just took you out in the hall and 2 or 3 teachers would decide how many licks you got. Then you hoped you didn't have to take home for the parents opinion on the subject. There was no joy in that.

The DC-3 would have been more fun for your old man(mine too) because you could hang on to it a lot longer.

Good job. I like it.

I never saw or knew mine came off. Figured it out when I put the new master on.

I lost one off the clutch rod when my master cylinder went bad. It allowed the clutch pedal to come up higher but it still felt right. I did not notice how much more it moved until I put the new cylinder on it.

Sounds like it is time for a trip to the hardware store and make a BLDC.