dripley

On mine the rod that was welded to the exhaust for a hanger failed. It was the hanger at the tranny(mines a manual and not an auto). The weld started failing and it came loose from the pipe slowly actuatlly pulling a piece of the pipe with it. I ended up with a 1/2" by 6" slot in the pipe. Over time it got louder and louder until I found it. Did not help that is was directly under the passenger side floor board. If it is getting that loud it shouldn't be that hard to find.

I know when you turn the switch to the start position some of the systems shut down while it is engaged and comes back on when the switch is released. At least my radio shots off, I dont know what else does. Maybe the ECM gets that as signal so it knows the switch position. wiring is definitely not my strong suit.

Good to hear. Good call Tom.

I ran all my line and pulled up a little excess, closed the needle valve, started the engine, cracked open the valve, and bingo the line is full.

A very good reason for checking the wiring diagram. Thanks Tom

I am not looking at the wiring diagram, but the tail lights come on when the head lights come on. The brake lights come on with the brake light switch and the turn signal comes on with the turn signal switch. I would think that would point to the head light switch. I also dont know what that switch costs just to throw at the problem.

Never had a set long enough to see the wear.

The brake and the turn signal come from one source and the tail light comes from the head light switch. Still could be anything in between though, socket, harness, you are still going to have to so some digging.

Thats where I was going whit the other post. Until I started hanging out here I had no Idea that the oil pressure gauge is mostly a dummy just letting you know you had pressure. Thats only a couple of steps ahead of an idiot light. I guess could see the pressure start falling off well before the idiot light came on though. I dont watch it near as much DD'ing as I do when towing.

I cant say as I have ever noticed an oil pressure drop when pulling a grade in the summertime. But i am using the factory gauge and my looks at it are pretty quick and as long as it sitting about a 1/4" above the forty mark I figure it is good. A real gauge might show me something different. On top of that, I dont pull my trailer often. Probably 5 times a year, from one job to the next, sometimes home first. Never had any bad luck using dino. I dont have anything against synthetic. I just have not had any issues thru the years using dino.

Bad copper sealing washer or injector o ring letting combustion gas in the return rail maybe? Just thinking out loud here.

Thats the main reason I dont consider using it. I am very seldom in places that see the temps a lot of you see. Occasionally we will see temps in the teens, but it is unusual. Normal lows around me would normally be at or just below freezing. Just does not get that cold that often. This winter would be a bit of an exception however.

Too much, too little, hard to say. It does make me wonder if The ECM would know the difference. Does it react to the current draw of just cycling the switch? Hmmmmm.

have never had them checked, but after the fiasco coming out of Iowa I need to. One set of wheels is closer together than the other. I dont remember seeing that before. As far as the tires, it has been the same on both of my 5th wheels, 3 to 3.5 years and they are shot.

Sometimes my brilliance amazes me. Kind of hard to bump the starter when the starter aint working.

Sounds like your starter contacts might worn out. It can be rebuilt. As far as your fuel pump, are you seeing any pressure when bumping the starter or is it dead?

I have seen that before, but it was well worth watching again.

I did a little research on it because CFA flies there flag 24/7 with a light on it ran or shine. I would like to think that they are doing it properly. I also just realized that Hex had already posted the link that I posted. Sorry about that Hex. I guess I ought to read a little more closely.

I have been running the same pressures you have for 3.5 years with no issues. I dont even know the number of members here and on other forums that are doing the same. No way thats the issue. As far as having a Bosch test bench, he must build a lot of pumps to pay for that thing.

My trailer tires last 3 to 3.5 years with less that 10k miles on them and then they blow no matter how much tread is on them. I have run china bombs and us made. ST and LT all with the same results. They go with little to no warning. My trip from Iowa, I air the tires up, checked them again about 50 miles down the highway, good pressure, tires were not hot at all. Checked them again about 75 miles later, same condition. Blew one tire about 100 miles later and when I got stopped in the rest 1 more had already separated some and a third was starting to bubble and separate. Just over 3 years old.

I am growing very fond of mine. I wanted to be sure II like it before making it more permanent.

When I replaced mine there were none in the tee. It was like a compression fitting without the compression rings. I dont know why it help as long as it did.

That is about how fast they move sometimes.

I have a nice selection of BFH's in my shop. They all come in handy every so often.

Hex, be easy. Even your link shows it is allowable in inclement weather with an all weather flag. I came up with this also. http://www.senate.gov/reference/resources/pdf/RL30243.pdf It states the same thing. It also lists a few sites where we fly the flag 24/7.