dripley

I am either cap it with a piece of bed or stainless. Who knows, it might come in handy some day.

My 2500 with 3:55's at 70 om 6th is turning right at 2k. In 5th about 2200 at 55 I think. Never red lined it to see where it would be. Around town I usually hit 5th around 35 or 40 and can cruise around in 5th no problem. Sorry I dont have 4:10's but it sounds like you have 3:55's to me.

You are not the only one, I spent 2+ hours after installing my AD try figure out why the truck would not start. If you dont plug the vp back in it will never start. Here's your sign.

2nd gear here unless I stop on a steep incline. My Grandson used 4th while I was letting him drive it. Still have not figured that one out yet, but that would qualify for user error. I changed my stock clutch out around 225k and it still had some life in it. All that with using 2nd to launch.

I am like Ho, I understand the theory but the equations and formulas make my brain throb.

I have seen a few programs about this on Discovery and such. It would be a cataclysmic event with nothing to measure it by. No one would be untouched by it, wherever you live.

I vividly remember her statement. If the hierarchy of the Democratic party does not know whats in it, who does?

Sounds like bailing wire and duct tape might be involved. Who knows, it my be more reliable.

I have been wondering if the regulators were the same in both pumps. I assume you have seen both of them. I set mine twice the first week I had mine and have not touched it since. Sits just over 19#. I bought mine before they sold to the new owners also. I have the quick disconnects also with no issues to date.

Two things i think everyone will agree with is one, the oe Carter is none to good(the in tank solution is the same) and two, you need a fuel pressure gauge to monitor whatever pump you have, oe or aftermarket.Personally I have the ADII on mine and it has performed flawlessly for over 2.5 years now. Several folks here are running mechanical and most are happy with them. I dont know much about them other than what I have read. Not sure if there is a definitive answer as to which is best.

I have porcelain coated grates in mine. It is a Weber, 15 years old and on its second set of grates. I guess if it does come off, I ate some of it. I priced SS for mine at near $90, porcelain was less than $20, which made the choice a nobrainer for me.

No experience with auto painting, but not afraid to try it. If it turns out bad I'll just pay somebody to do it or Rhino line over it. As far as the Rhino liner, I figured to do a do it your self like you speak of. As rough as I am on the paint, it might be a better route. If I did it on the outside I would like to have something that is a finer finish than what I have seen in the bed. Other than the hole in the bed it is almost damage free. The head board is still straight as a string. It is dirty, but the only dents are on the wheel wells. Looks better that mine. The most damage is on the top of the bed rails drivers rear corner, and some hole where tool boxes were mounted. It also has full wheel well liners, something the 02 did not come with. My 96 had them.

I have been using well water here for the past 20 years. I dont know about my other vehicles but it did keep the radiator clean on the dodge. At least the old one anyway.:lol:enjoy the second pic. I could not make it go away.

I still like my exhaust brake for tailgaters. Twice is the most it has ever taken for them to back off or go on around.

Well the last two trips I med to the mid west(Iowa and Indiana)have taken a toll on my bed. A woman hit me in Iowa and I, in a moment of brilliance, hit the passenger side with the forks on the lift. they did not penetrate, but sure did leave a couple of good marks. The rear bumper has had it share of a rough life on the drivers side and is bent up pretty good. Backed into a tree with the tailgate down once and bent the bed along with the tailgate. I did mange to find a good tailgate in Iowa for $120. Thats when I notice the bed was bent, but did mange to get that on and looking good. So with all of that and 12 years of wear and tear I thought I could find me a bumper and maybe a bed, hopefully one the right color just to swap them out. The cheapest bumper I ever saw was $100 with a big dent and no covers on top. A decent bed the wrong color were running $500 or more, never saw one the right color. So the other day I am looking at craigs list and came across a white bed, minor damge and no rust, with a bumper and all the hardware, tailgate(though damaged), both taillights with bulbs, sockets and harnesses, some nifty Ram taillight covers(that is if you like them) and a bed liner.The only drawback on the bed is the hole for a goose neck. I have some stainless to make a cover for it or I can leave it for when i sit under the bed and have a place for my head. I now have a new project, just cant decide whether to paint it myself, rhino line the whole thing, or wrap it.Picked it all up for $200.

Now thats a choice story.

Yes on the WOT, wide open throttle. The reason I ask is many years ago i had the same issue as you with the dead pedal. Cruising down the highway, with or with out my 5th wheel, bam the throttle would drop to idle. Sometimes with a cel and sometimes not. Kill the ignition and restart and all would be fine until the next occurrence. I really did not know much about the vehicle at the time and took it to a recommended diesel shop in Maryland where I was working. They found no codes and did not know what was wrong. The only thing they found was very low fuel pressure. I had recently had an in tank pump installed by the dealer when the oe crapped out. IIRC i was having the dead pedal before and after that install. Anyway I installed a booster pump from BD diesel on the frame rail and got the pressure up 17 or 18 pounds at idle and I never had dead pedal again. This might not be your issue but it cured mine. That is a very unique truck you have there. Do you still work with it or is it just a show piece?

What is your normal fuel pressure? Idle and WOT. And X2 on the pics.

I have not said anything to them as of yet. Kind of figured I over tightened. When I installed them there was so little resistance on the nut that I doubt I could have gotten 10# of torque on them. I just turned them until they bottomed out with ease. Still have the old bushings and will make contact with them and see what they say. They have a five year warranty, so we will see what they say.

I started hearing about the quick disconnects after installing my ADII and joining here. Mine has been on for 2.5 years with no problem. When I put mine on they would not come off without depressing the relaese though. But if they ever do cause trouble I would replace them push lock JIC's and be done with it. I think Pureflow would have been better of not cheapening the manufacturing process to save money and instead keeping the quality up. Folks probably would have paid a little more for the old reliability the Raptors had a reputation for.

I have a mechanical gauge in the cab. The needle valve serves 2 purposes. 1 is to protect the gauge from the pulses the VP puts out. It is barely cracked open. This is its primary purpose. 2 if for some reason the gauge were to start leaking I can shut it off until I can fix it.

Moving it seemed like the best idea at the time, but it seems it was not necessary.

Brass on brass and brass on steel I dont use anything. Steel on steel I would rather use a sealant. Advance Auto has some that is diesel compatible. Not all thread sealants are compatible with fuels.

A little update on the links I used. While the link itself seems just fine, the bushings just fell apart. Maybe because I tightened them to much i dont know. So i put some new bushings in there, one set from Raybestos and another set from Advance Auto(drive works?). Seems my ordering clerk:whistle: only ordered one set instead of two. So now I have one blue set and one black set. We will see which one holds up better. I did not tighten these as much, just till the squished together a little.

I am with you on that one. I did not install mine until about 2.5 years ago after joining here.Had the coin then. Save up for a pressure gauge also, they go hand in hand.