dripley

Very well stated.

The hx is going to spool slower on the low end than the hx due to the exhaust housing size. The hy is smaller than the hx and spools quicker. Your boost pressure is determined by the waste gate. Stock it should open around 20 psi. Mine will make 33 or 34, but I have an aftermarket waste gate that opens at the higher pressure. You will make more power with more pressure, but I believe 35psi is about the max effective pressure for the hx. Above that you can loose power and make more heat like you are seeing.There are some much more knowledgeable folks here that will be able to explain this much better. I am sure they will be speaking up soon. Do you have any other mods on your truck? If you would fill out your signature with any mods you have it will help with solutions.

I think about that clip every time I drive under one. Sorry about the luck, Russ.

That he would, but I would love to hear the phone call.

I told him next time it happened to pull a plug wire and hold it in his hand while some one cranks it. Not so sure he went for that one though.

Go ahead and take it out, it will be much easier to clean. I had to take mine out on the side of the highway about 2 months ago. Took all of 45 minutes to remove and I had never taken one out before. - - - Updated - - - Go ahead and take it out, it will be much easier to clean. I had to take mine out on the side of the highway about 2 months ago. Took all of 45 minutes to remove and I had never taken one out before.

No smoke switch here. I use my exhaust brake when people tailgate. Most of the time it only takes one time and folks will back off, harder cases take twice, but it works. - - - Updated - - - Something I don't understand is why in order to avoid a rear end collision would you choose a head on collision? In my years I have had avoid a few things, but the left lane has always been in my mind as no place to go.

I would have to agree, just cant figure why rolling would made a difference. It has never happened when I have been around. Shoot it has a distributer, points and a coil. Have not dealt with those in a long time.

Affirmative.

I would have to agree with you. The starter turns just no engine start. - - - Updated - - - He is going to give that a try next time it happens. It does not happen often, starts fine 100 times then bam no start.

VP44's are not junk if you take care of them. They need good lift pump pressure, 15 to 20 psi is good pressure. If the idiot light is all that is in there the present owner did not know this. The ones I have seen all come on at 5 psi and that pressure will hurt the vp. Read this http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps There is alot to digest about the fuel system if you are buying tomorrow am. The oe lift pump will be behind the fuel filter canister on the block, some after markets will be there also. Some after market pumps will be on the frame rail in front of the fuel tank, some on the front of the frame driven by gears off of the crank pulley. If there is no fuel pressure gauge I would be a little suspect the owner knows of fuel pressure concerns. I am not trying to scare you off the truck, it might be just fine. There is just alot of info you want in a short time frame. - - - Updated - - - An over night crash course is pretty tough to do. Right Hex? I just touched on the VP.

But it qualifies for free shipping. Might ought to reconsider.

The bushings were getting worn out and it also appeared that the nuts on top had backed off a little and there was play in one side. When I tried to tighten them i could hardly turn them so I just got some new ones. I had a hell of time getting them off. somebody did not use anti seize when they were installed:whistle:. Curing the bump steer was a happy by product of replacement, I was not expecting that.

There is a spacer that goes on the starter. They are year specific, my 02 has one. Not sure which years they go on, but I would think yours needs one.

Disconnecting your batteries will not erase any codes. Once stored they will stay there until you clear them. Getting them read will help diagnose what is wrong.

No to your first question and yes to the second. You might want to look at a big line kit form Vulcan Performance. Just change the whole thing out and get better fuel flow and stop your leak.

To add to what Mike said, you need to get a code scanner/reader and check that hing for trouble codes. That will help In diagnosis.Ok I missed it. Mike asked for that already. .

When I was out in OK a while back I encountered fuel pumps with a green sticker label as B-5. It said it could contain up to 20% bio diesel. I just filled up on Sunday at a pump with a green sticker that said B-10 and may contain up to 20% bio diesel. Both in OK and the last place in NC were Love's Travel Centers. I have to believe it is not Loves as far as the stickers go, there has to be some kind of standard mandated by the government on labeling. Anyway, I have never seen the honey you have though. That stuff looks just like honey and appears to move about as fast.

My son has a 95 Honda Accord, not sure of engine, but it has an auto tranny. He has been having trouble with starting lately. Some times when he tries to start it, it just turns over but does not start. He has found if he puts it in neutral, pushes it 2 or 3 feet it will start right up. Is there some kind of safety switch he might be tripping by doing that? If I am not mistaken autos have a safety so they wont start in any thing other than park or neutral.

Here are a couple of pictures of mine. I always felt I was somewhat immune to the puke bottle thing since my truck has spent 99% of the time on highways. The other 1% has been on reasonably level ground though in the dirt. I looked at the radiator many times looking for build up and never noticed it was there due to the difficulty of seeing it. When looking over the top of the radiator the fins are still visible and it is the clogging you cant see. That is why I suggested the mirror.

Check the fins in the radiator for clogging also. If you have the oe puke bottle up front you will have some clogging and that will also cause higher temps. It is difficult to see the clogging. A mirror would be your best bet. I never could see mine clogging until I took it out. EGT gauge is very good thing to have as John states.

This is what i used http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1284232&cc=1440064 . Definitely low on the price end, but they worked. I will just have to see how long they last.

The 02's and some or all of the 01 are controlled by the ecm and not a servo. Fly by wire. It by passes the TPS. No vacuum lines, no servo, no signal from the TPS.Pretty simple unless it goes out, then you need a new ECM . - - - Updated - - - I should have said solenoid and not servo.

Thanks. I just kept tightening them expecting more resistance. They never seemed to offer anymore resistance until I ran out of threads. They are squished pretty good. i will check them when I get home again.

glad you got it fixed. Mine is all thru the ECM and i dont know much about your setup.