dripley

I like my 6 speed. It is very good for towing heavy especially if you have to start out going uphill. The 5600 is not very diy friendly where the 4500 is. There are some good remans out there in the $3k and + range with good warranties. I had the 4500 in my 96 and it did work well, but I still prefer the 5600.

My AD has been rock solid since install. If I had issues that stuck me on the road and caused me to have to replace the pump every 3 to 4 months, even under warranty, I'd take it off and put something else on. I dont have time for the BS of that. I dont think I could buy another AD until they get their problems worked out. I am with Mike on the mechanical pumps. I want to see how they hold up in the long run. For now I will just be happy that my AD is holding up well.

Welcome to family.

My ADII is going on 2.5 years and have not touched it except to change filters.

if it is like the one that came with my AD, it only uses the factory ecm signal for a trigger of the relay. My 12v power comes from the alternator

What I understand and experience on my truck is a 25 second run just bumping the starter and not continually cranking. If I hold the key and turn the starter I only see about half pressure while cranking. The ecm cycles the lift pump on and off creating about 50% pressure for starting.

yes getting the pump off of the ECM would be beneficial. Would the pump overheat because of the ECM? Or would the ECM overheat because of the pump draw and stop the 25 to 30 second free run you get from bumping the starter?

No 30 second run would point to the ecm, but the pump being that hot would point to the pump. AD has been having some pump problems of late.

I have to agree with Mike on beefing up your truck some to make it handle better with the load. My 96 long bed had no overloads or sway bar and 245 tires. The 02 has both and 265 tires. They made very nice difference in handling even with the 265's. Not sure where you are going to find a 98.5 with 02 interior and a 12v. That's pretty specialized. Folks really love the low mileage ones, especially in the $$$ department.

Nice trailer. Now all you have to do is paint purple like the truck. Or is that Maroon:think:?

I am running the 2 stroke at 128:1, like I read here and elsewhere. The study is based on a 200:1 ratio. I would have to let smarter minds than mine explain what the difference would be. But for me the 2 stroke is the easiest for me to get anywhere I go.

[QUOTE=Mopar1973Man;77163]Yes. Mine is a fly by wire only PCM controlled cruise control. But from what I've learned from everyone here is that all automatic where vacuum servo cruise still controlled by the PCM. You mean yours is controlled by the ECM correct? Mine is. That was the one thing that did not work on the 2nd efing rebuilt ECM i had. It worked fine after replacing the ECM. So I would attempt to using resistors to fool the APPS sensor to believing its at a idle position of about 0.4 volts, ground the idle leg of the validation switch. Remember this is shooting from the hip. Being that the APPS signal comes from the ECM and then is passed to the PCM. If cruise is set then PCM should take over control feeding signal to the vacuum servo.

Are you saying the starter wont turn or the engine wont start when the starter turns it over?

I am on the opposite end as you. My wife and I met and got married 4 months later. Both of us young and immature. We have been thru many good times and our share of bad times. I have had many episodes as you posted above, but it just comes with the territory. Being married aint always easy and some folks dont make it. We still struggle at times, but if the good Lord's willing and we keep at it we will make to the end of the journey.

Well I guess I will accept abnormal as normal in this situation.

I had a reason to cut into my apps harness about 2.5 years ago. I wired it back together with weather tight butt splices. I thought that might be the reason since I also sometimes got idle speeds of 1200 rpm for no reason. It would even stop my E brake from working because it will not come on if you have your foot on the throttle. Last weekend I cut out all the butt splices and soldered all the wires splices and sealed them with dielectric grease and shrink wrap. It has not acted up since, but it has only been a few days. It definately did not cure the little bumps in apps percentage though.

I have been following this with interest and believe i could do what you did 98, but I too and electronically challenged and loose it from there. Good luck with the cruise.

The high idle is not enabled on my truck and never has been. It just blips up there for a split second and then back to 0%. very irregular.

visually check them for cracks I would think. That is one part I did not replace.

I recently bought a scan gauge II. since install I have noticed while idling the reading for the apps sensor will jump from 0% to 10%, + or - a little. It does this very intermittently and only for a split second. I notice no change in the engine rpm just the sensor reading. Anyone else see a similar reading on theirs?

Hope I am not missing something, but on 9-15 I will celebrate 40 years of wedded bliss and feel for the gentleman.

I used to feel it on the drivers side every so often, but have not felt it sense replacing the front end parts, ball joints, tie rods and ends and the like.

My wifey's Dakota has a 3 speed with 2 overdrives and TC lock up. 2nd gear has 2 gear ratios, one for accelerating from a stop and another for downshifting into passing gear. I still cant get used to it.

Welcome Kevin.

I was not sure about the shims, thought I had read it here somewhere and thought I would mention it.