dripley

ROAD TRIP!!!ROAD TRIP!!!:ahhh: Dont be blowing up that $10 tstat now.

OK, I know what you are speaking of. Mine was not leaking when I replaced the VP, but it is now. Mine is leaking to the ground and the fan is not blowing it around. Maybe it is your puke bottle or another seal on the front of the engine that is leaking. The only time I had the fan blowing oil around was when one of my injector orings went bad and let diesel into the crank case and blew the excess out thru the vent on the front of the engine and out the puke bottle. I dont know for sure, but I would not think the tappet cover gasket would blow enough oil for the fan to pick it up.

I re[laced my vp a couple years ago but there was no gasket to replace. What do you mean by the side gasket?

The compression ring is supposed to seal to the line, the inner edge of the compression nut, and the fitting on the gauge. The threads on the nut do not seal any thing, the inner portion of the nut that contacts the compression ring is supposed to form the seal. I have seen plumbers dope up the threads on the compression nut to stop a leak, but they know that is not a proper solution. It will get them by,but under your hood it will start leaking again. From your picture you can see the line is crooked and that is why you have a leak. If every thing is seated properly the line would be straight and the leak should stop. I would suggest you pickup some extra compression rings and try to get the line seated straight and your leak should be fixed. They are very cheap at the hardware store. Not trying to be d--k here, but the ring and not the threads should be forming the seal.

No wildfires out here, but this is what part of I70 on the west side of Indy looked like when I went home about 3 weeks ago. I crossed a bridge over a river that topped its banks and all of sudden it was like driving to Key West only lower.

I shift mostly by feel and ear. While I do look at the tach, I dont really use it for shifting. If I am moving around town in no particular hurry, I keep the rpm low. If I want to flog somewhere, I will run it up some in the high 2k's. Towing is still by feel and ear, but it seems to pull and accelerate the best in the 1700 to 2500 range. I just dont seem gain much by winding it out when towing.

I was hoping yours was going to show them crating it up and sending to my house. - - - Updated - - - I was hoping yours was going to show them crating it up and sending to my house.

ISX posted it the other day. pretty cool stuff.

1. I use the green good for all form wally world. I am sure there will be other opinions. 2. Yes . that is the oe filter canister and you just unscrew, pull out the filter and replace. Bump the starter(no engine start)afterwards and the lift pump will pump fuel back into the canister. Some folks loosen the cap during this to let the air out. I personally have never done that. Do you know whether you have the oe lift pump or an aftermarket of some kind? The od pump is on the block just to the rear of the filter canister and you should hear it running after bumping the starter. 3. Mike has the wiring diagrams and such in the articles section. You have to cross a threshold with posting here to be able to down load them. Someone will come along a tell you what that threshold is. There is a resistor on the bottom of the hvac box that controls the fan speed, but i believe if that goes out the fan will only run on one speed. 4. It is not that difficult, but can be time consuming if you have never done it before. I replaced my 6 speed a while back. That was my first time and it went very well. I also had plenty of help. It still took me 2.5 days working in the driveway. I replace my seals and I keep thinking i had to take something else off to get to the seal. Cant remember. There are some other folks more knowledgeable than me that will speak up on that one.

That will be on the to do lists as soon as the Lotto #'s come in. Pretty sharp.

I have bought a few things from Thoroughbred in the past. Never had to send anything back to test there customer service though. You should call them and tell them about your problem and see what they have to say. Do so before your warranty expires. The oe lift pump is iffy at best. You can tell that by the FP #'s you are seeing. I believe they are within Dodge's specs but not Bosch's. Here is some info to read http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system?start=10 There is a lot of info good here. I put a Blue Chip VP on my truck just over 3 years and 70k miles ago with no issues thus far. The new electronics is what drew me to their pump. His web site also has a lot of good info on it also. I still believe he is not the only one that does this though. You have to be real specific with someone when buying to be sure they did. Alot of old ones are left on if they still operate within Bosch's specs at the time of rebuild. I thought at one time that DAP offered them both ways, but I don't see it on his web site any more.

Welcome from NC. This forum is a great source for info. Good looking trucks.

I saw a few out in Tulsa OK about 10 years ago. They are definitely different.

I take it you are fitting the big wrench over the bolts holding the pulley? - - - Updated - - - That is my understanding, it is a reverse thread.

I put a 2 acre parking lot on Love's truck stop in Hooker OK about 2 years ago and they had bio out there. Wasnt much of anything else out there though.

There is nothing wrong with cutting the tee into the fuel line.I ran my fuel line thru the oe canister and this is tapped in between the canister and the vp. The needle valve you see is there for dampening the pulses from the vp. It is barely open, just enough to get a pressure reading. 'The pulses will beat your pressure gauge to death very quickly. I got all of this from Vulcan also. I also eliminated all of the banjo bolts with larger fittings for better fuel flow. I would think the fitting that came with the Fass you used on the vp is probably larger than the standard banjo bolt.

Is your lift pump running when you have your key is on? by that I mean when you first get in your truck and turn the key on you should just have a bump in pressure and it then bleeds off quickly. The pump should not start running until you either start the engine or bump the starter with no engine start. Just trying to see if the system is functioning properly. When you open the gas cap are you hearing air escaping or being sucked in? Just so I understand, you removed the fuel cap and ran the engine with the cap off and it did the same thing.

Just try and keep the tires glued to the pavement.

Welcome,LTK. That is very sharp looking truck you have there. I would take a picture of mine with the doors open, but all of my stuff would fall out. Good luck with your degree.

Thank you Obi Wan. I have learned well today.

You need an OBDII scanner. If you dont have one just go to a auto parts store and see if they will do it for you. Most of the big chains have them and will do it for free. - - - Updated - - - You need an OBDII scanner. If you dont have one just go to a auto parts store and see if they will do it for you. Most of the big chains have them and will do it for free.

I dont know much about CR's. But those injectors dont look like the will fit.

I would suggest you clear the codes, drive it and see if any of them come back. If they dont, happy driving.

The wally world here near the rv park here in Terre Haute was sold out a couple weeks ago. Found some at home last weekend. But to my dismay they had no Rotella. Not sold out, but no space on the shelf for it, not even for quart bottles. Kinda weird. On top of that Waffle House no longer has a hamburger steak dinner on the menu. THE WORLD IS COMING TO AN END!!!!

The p500 means the truck saw a difference between the front a rear speed sensors. More than likely you have spun your rear tires somewhere, gravel, asphalt makes no difference. It also could mean one of the sensors is bad. The easiest way to determine is to clear the codes and see if it comes back. p and e 1693 mean the same thing, one computer is telling you the other computer has a code stored. The 1691 is a bit different. It pertains to the vp 44 injection pump and would be over my head to explain. Is the truck running or not?