dripley

I had to look at my doors to see what yall were talking about. It has been so long since anyone even road in my back seat I didn't know they were there. They both work however.

it would be used for instructional purposes only, never to challenge your level of redneckedness.

Moving the RV is much easier than the house. the house just sits there minding its on business, waiting for me to return. It probably does wonder how much "stuff" my wife can put in it.

correct me if I am wrong here guys, but that front piece is just a resonator itself and not a catalytic converter. It is on the gassers but not the diesels.

mine is still stock at 278k.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]5245[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]5246[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]5247[/ATTACH]Here are photos of the old radiator. since my truck sees highway and job sites 99% of the time I thought I would be somewhat immune to the clogging from the puke bottle. It appears I was wrong. It seems to me with this clogging I should not be over cooling, but over heating. Other than hitting 200*+ going up the mountain on Sunday, 175* is about the best I can get. for most of the trip I stayed 160* to 165*. Yesterday after warming the truck and running up the interstate back the campground I was at 160* when I parked. I shot the tstat housing and it read near 160, around the base of the housing only 145. at the exit of the housing 145 also and at the radiator hose into the radiator only 120. I could grab the hose and hold it in my bare hand and it only felt warm. When I squeezed the hose if felt soft like there was no pressure on it. I loosened the cap and it sprayed coolant all over my hand and was only warm to touch. So I am believing my gauge is giving me an reasonably accurate reading.I just don't understand why the tstat is not staying closed in order to get the engine to temp. even if 30* coolant is entering the engine why is the tstat allowing the coolant to pass before it gets to temp? As far as internal clogging goes the end of the radiator that blew off shows none. all of the passages are wide open. Any way after the new radiator, a new tstat, and new coolant my temps are running about 5 to 10* cooler and about 155 to 160 with occasional +'s and -"s. The only thing I have not replaced is the fan clutch. I still hear it when it engages at start up and when it does while under a heavy load. It came on and off several times on the way here. I watched when I shut down the engine and it spun maybe 2 revolutions after the engine stopped and I could move it with hand. According to the Haynes manual it should spin with resistance when hot. Mine will not spin as freely as Mike's does, and I would not want to try and stop it while the engine is running. I guess I will replace the clutch and see what happens. It is the only part of the system I have not replaced.

looking good Mr. Flynn.

a little update. I just took off on a trip to Terre Haute In with the rv. Temps were a little higher especially on hills, but not much. Came to the grade up to Ashville nc and the temps started to climb. The last time I looked at the gauge it was reading near 200*. That has not been unusual towing on that grade. I few seconds later I heard a pop and saw the steam venting from under the hood. I got off the road and shut her down. Started looking for a blown hose and then realized I had blown the end of the radiator off. Never lost any power just the radiator. I have always been thinking this was a cooling problem and not electronic. But I might be wrong unless the radiator was just gone. The hoses are the ones that came on the truck and I would have thought one of those would have let go first. Any way I have a new radiator on the way and we will see what happens. I have a 217 engine overheat code also.

I think at the same place you got the 200* avatar:pant:. I saw one listed on Rock Auto for an 08. But I cant find one at the parts store. I went to the dealer in Terre Haute and they were no help at all. It took 10 minutes to tell me what temp the one for my 02 was.

The dash fit and looks great, I hope it holds up for a very long time. The dash was $240 + about $30 for shipping and a $20 oversize part charge. It came in a rather large box wrapped in foam and packed in Styrofoam peanuts. I also ordered the reinforcement kit for $25 extra. It was a little pricey for no more than what was, but seemed to be cheap insurance. So it was about $315 for everything. Here is where I got it, http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/de/full.aspx?Page=93 It just fit right in no trimming or filing was necessary.

I have not moved in 22 years and hope when the day comes I am 6 feet under or have enough gas to burn it all.:lmao:Or maybe my son hopes he does.

Most welcome sir. It is a shame to see folks install larger fuel lines, better pumps and still leave some restricted OE things left in place:cookoo:. It is just counter productive. Good luck with the new to you pump.

I cant speak for CSM, but I have the same ones on mine and am quite satisfied with them. Ther is a little shake at speed, but the visibility is just fine. I don't think they shake anymore than the OE manuals my truck came with. If they do it is not noticeable. IMHO of course.

The steering brace did help mine a fair amount. Replacing the rest of the tie rods, ends, ball joints, and track bar made the most difference. Guess I should not be to stunned since I finally replaced them 220K.

I tend ot suffer from the same disease at times myself.

I installed the AD165II with a kit for removing the in tank pump. The kit enlarged the oe fuel line for the 165. I do believe that it would be much better for the 150 to have a draw straw or anything that will give the pump the flow that it needs. The old lines are restrictive and will work the pump that much harder. I don't know what your pump is coming with, but the more you open it up in size from the tank to the vp the better off you will be.

Mine has never slipped off except when I was lifting it up. I had it at an extreme angle to the tube though. That appears to be a much shorter filter in the pic, but it does prove there is one out there that will fit. At least on a 12v any way. But it does not look like there is any more than on a 24v.

I would have to measure it to see if it would fit directly over the turbo. The problem is there is not enough room in front of the turbo since the filter is near 11" long.

I have been the rebuilt ecm route with the results being a nice pricey paper weight. Had to send it back the first time it was rebuilt. Actually they told me my core was bad and I also lost my core charge. The freshly rebuilt one generated a 606 code that the core did not. I ended up with one from Dodge. Wasted a lot of time and money.

Tappet/pushrod cover gasket along with the vacuum pump, power steering pump seal while I am in there. Solve the mystery of my over cooling problem. These are topping my list.

My booster pump came with the oil pressure switch. At the time I did not know the wiring for the block mounted pump was still there.

I went back to the picture you posted and appear to have the same one I now have. That is why there is so much room there. My old bhaf really filled the space up. NAPA sold me the 6637 for $33.

I have done that, but get different readings on the tstat housing and the block near the tstat housing. Not sure what to believe when I do it. Maybe I need to learn how to turn my nerd on. You must know Mr. Miagi. Nerd on, Nerd off.

I ran a similar set up for quite a while, probably 3+years. I installed a BD diesel booster pump when I found out the intank pump was putting a little pressure. At the time I did not know the importance of fuel pressure. I installed the booster pump on the frame rail and it was wired to a fuel pressure switch so as not to put to much pressure to the vp while cranking. I ran it that way with no problems and no fuel pressure gauge. I learned all of that later when my ECM crapped out and I found this site trying to solve that problem. I think if you have a gauge and monitor and the pressures stay good you would be ok. Mine worked fine. I guess it depends on how long it holds together.

The 6637 I bought is only 8.5" in diameter where as the bhaf from Vulcan is 10.5" in diameter. It also seemed to have a stiffer outlet to clamp to.