dripley

Welcome to the forum. I have seen aread many of you posts on CF.

with both of the above. Mine is connected similar to mopar's.

The bug wasnt enough huh?

:thumbup2::thumbup2:You are catching on already.

Welcome. You picked a good place to be. Lots of good info here and folks more than willing to pass it on.

A dry lubricant like garphite might be better especially if it is getting dirty. Used ot use on motorcycle cables.

Unless you plan on putting some serious horse power on the road a BHAF is more than suffecient. With what i have on my truck I dont believe a cold air in take is going to make enough differance to be worth the money. the BAHF will flow enough air for 3000 to 400 HP maybe more. someone here will correct me if i am wrong on the stated HP. I dont think that would be high on my list of mods. To many other good things out there that wil really make a differance in performance.

My wifes 06 Dakota has spark plug wires that go to an indivdual coil for each plug and can be unplugged from the coil, so the wires dont have boots made onto them. I believe her 00 was the same way. Cant help onth stalling issue though.

Try lubing the cable, might be getting dry or dirty maybe.

Welcome from NC.

goog to know.

If it is plugged the waste gate is not opening at all I would think. If you plan on adding a chip that could become an issue and over boosting is not good. But there are ways around it that should not be complicated. I would still defer to those more knowlageable than I.

there are timing marks on the gear and i do beleive you have to remove the cover to check them. If the gear did not rotate and stayed engaged with the other gear you should not have a problem. But I am not sure how much that gear can move with everything in place.

That is very good info above. They are all good pumps it is just a personal prefrence. You can just run the Raptor straight thru to the stock filter canister, but adding a prefilter is a good idea. Myself I like the added fuel filters that come with the AD.

What kind of boost pressures are you seeing now? ther are alot of ways to modify the turbo for greater boost. I am assuming by bolt he means a boost bolt or boost elbow which allows you to beed some pressure off of the waste gate so it stays closed longer for greater boost pressure. I am not very familiar with these, my turbo is mdified with a larger waste gate that allows me to increase my boost pressure. Others here know more than I do about them than I and I am sure someone will chime in and help out. but modifying for greater boost is not unusual.

Welcome to the forum.

definately over rated, but you do get plenty of practice.:doh:Welcome to the forum.

I personnaly think the best way to warm it up is to drive it. I start mine and let it idle for 20 to 30 secoonds and drive easy untill I see either temp going up or oil pressure dropping. Usually happens in 5 miles or so. Thats my 02, not sure if it works any differant for a 3rd gen

We are open for buisness.http://forum.mopar1973man.com/misc.php?do=flashchat&room=1

Fix or repair daily? I might be wrong since I am talking about a Dakota, but you would think they could be similar.

I have a HX35 turbo. when I bought my Banks stinger plus it came with a quick turbo exhaust housing, big head waste gate and promised quiker spool ups. It has delivered on that promise but for the life of me I cannot find any specs on what is differant than stock except for the actuator(set to open around 34psi), and the opening for the waste gate(almost twice as large as stock). So I know I am not stock but cant seem to find any info any where as to what the differance is. I have not called Banks, but was wondering if any of you knew what is differant between it and the stock housing. Banks says it will not work with an HY, just an HX. I was very naive when I bought it and I guess I still am today.

I dont know hte 06 2500 but i will take a stab at it. My wife has an 06 Dakota, if you shut the engine off with the lights on they will stay on for 30 to 60 seconds. If the 06 2500 has grid heaters they will cycle on and off at cold temps outside and pull the volt meter down while running. the truck might be warm but the intake air temp will be down causin them to run and pull the volts down. As far as the fan is concerned, Mine does not run unless the engine gets hot or you have just started it and the liquid in the fan clutch needs to be warmed for it to disengage. Teh fan does not run all the time. Alot of this sounds normal for an 02 except for the lights. someone else will correct me if I am wrong.

The few times I have used mine it did not move the gauge either. But he cab warmed up quicker though. are you healing Jordan?

In pre 01 or 01.5 it lnly reads one computer. It will read both in my 02, but does not always read them all. It is a decent starting place however. A scanner is the best way to get them all.

It can lenghten the install time considerably. I think I was sweating that one when i read the instructions the first time.