dripley

OOOUUCCHH!!!!!!!!!!!. wondered where you have been. sure am sorry to hear about this. our thoughts and prayers to your speedy recovery.

shoot if i could get close enough i'd come over and do it for you for beer and burgers. i dont know that thats going to happen any time soon. as far as the mpg gain, it is advertised that way and i dont see why it would not work out on your truck. the advertised hp gain is 40 over stock, mpg's at 1 to 2. i dont know that i got 40hp, but i did pick up some low end power that i really like. some high end also + 1 mpg extra. the only differance between your truck and mine is the rear end. you have 4.10's and i have 3.55's. that might make a differance. you should have pretty good low end power already with the 4.10's . we need smarter people to answer that one. or just put them in there and see what happens.i did some research, we better call it shopping, on power upgrades 6 years ago when i wanted more power. it was a little overwhelming at the time. too many choices and claims to sort thru. i also did not know about all the forums out there at the time. that would have helped me make up my mind. the biggest reason i opted for the banks system is because it was a complete system, exhaust, tuner, gauges,and on and on. six years ago that was $2500 as i remember. but times were better then. another reason i chose banks was the tuner is not adjustable. you adjust with your right foot. simpicityat its best. the one thing i did not think of, take an edge comp, set it on high them adjust with your right foot and you have almost the same thing. nothing like 20/20 hind sight. the comp and others also give the option for economy settings for mpg gains. Mike has one maybe he will chime in on that.i like you am a little leary about used. you just never know how used, especially when buying form someone you dont know, sight unseen. but i see alot of guys have good luck. sounds like a personal decision.anyway i dont think you can go wrong with the rv 275's, nice power and hopefully an mpg gain. all for $270 if you return your cores.

it cant hurt any thing. i have had my BHAF for alomost a year and run it with no heat shield. i have not noticed any differance in temps from running the stock air box with a k&n summer or winter. i darnn sure did not over heat with all the tstat poblems i have had. i dont have any way to monitor the intake air temp and i would think it has made a differance in that. there just doesnt seem to be any differance in how the engine is operatingl my milages stay pretty constant all year.

it isnt really hard to do. the back 2 injectors are a little tough to reach. i could reach them ok by kneeling on the bumber and i had a couple of buckets to stand on. i believe i spent about 4 hours or a little more from start to truck running again. i cleaned up the injector lines while i had them off. the mating surfaces anyway. i believe i could do it almost half the time next time. its like aything else you have to do for the first time. fearof the unknown and what will i screw up. this is not difficult mechanically just a little uncomfortable here and there. mike has a good write up on how to do it. i read it a few times. i did #1 first and saw how easy it was then went to #6 and worked my way back.knowing what i know now i would recomend to replace the oring/grommets in the return tee whil it is apart. be sure you have a socket to remove the IAT sensor, i did not have min with me. it would give better access to it. a stubby 3/4" wrench helps to. on sale at Lowe's now, 6pc 7/16 to 3/4 for $10 lifetime warranty. available in metric also.a good valve adjustment would be in order too. you are right there already. i better quit now you be in there forever at this rate.as far as hormonal, i would agree with both of your statements.

installing the banks brake into the banks exhaust was very simple unbolt the elbow and bolt in the brake. it came with t tap connections for the wiring. if you use them be sure and pack them with dielctric grease or the will corrode. splicing and soldering is much better but more time consuming. check out your vacume lines and replace any bad fittings while you are in there.

brake line wrenches will solve that problem.

just ask Cajflynn, 1.1 million and still counting. hauling big loads everywhere on a 53 block.

the little things can add quickly. it applies to every thing we do. we discuss this at work quite often. 27 supers aving a $100 a week for a year = $140,400 a year. works the same with our trucks. of course with that kinda of money i could just buy that pretty ss header.

i drove the truck 4 years stock and got around 18mpg highway about 15 ot 16 around town and right at 10 towing my 5th wheel. i put a banks stinger plus on it back in 05. their stated gain in rwhp was 75hp and a possible increase in mpg. i did not see an increase in mpg but a very good increase in power and torque. i could not tell you how much because i never had it dyno'd. when it was stock and i pulled out into traffic i had to floor it to keep from getting run over. after the install half throttle was all i needed to do the same. i had no change in fuel milage, but hotrodding around it did not suprise me. the tuner helps the engine use the fuel more efficiently than the stock program. i did have more power and the quick turbo that came with it allowed me to spool the turbo quicker, build more boost pressure and add more fuel. i dont think i got that in the right order though. most of my extra power came on in the upper rp, 18000 or 1900 and it kicked in real good. When i adde the rv's i pickup power in the lower rpm in addition to more in the upper range also. the rv's i believe have one more hole in the nozzle(smaller diameter also) and produce a differant spray pattern for an even a more efficient burn of the fuel.before the install i was getting 17.8 or .9 driving for hickory nc to columbia tn. got that on the last 2 trips home. thats pretty normal for the way i drive. the last trip i made with the rv's and my banks connected properly i got 18.9 for a 1mpg gain. this was with the fuel system leaking. i knew i had a problem just did not know how bad till i got here. so we will see what happens on the next trip. driving habbits play a big part in fuel milage. both of us know that very well. when i drive home i run 65 and 75 mph depending on the speed limit, a litttle slower going over the mountain though. some of the other guys here do better on milage, but their foot is no quite as heavy as mine.i guess it all boils down to burning less fuel more efficiently with greater power from less fuel. i think some of the other folks here could explain it better than me. i just know it works. i am ready for the dyno now.i also know i am not leaving puddles of flammable liquid laying around any more.:hyper:the rv's were agreat mod. especially for the low cost. $270 if you return the cores, $370 if you keep them.

I appreciate you explaining that one. What would you expect gain from doing this? it looks like alot of work.

Pirelli 265/75r/16's about a year ago. believe she wanted the michelins.:cry:I gues I am paying the price of 8 years with no issues.Nothing but regular service work.but 8 years and 200k miles i cant complain. The only thing i have had to do twice was the ecm. tranny went due to owner ignorance. I have got better service than some people on other items. Spent alot of time learning this truck.the more i work on it the more i love its simplicity(excluding the elctronics, iam still trying tograsp all of that).the rv275's gave me an extra 1mpg, maybe ill get another with this fix:hyper:. It was leaking pretty good the last several days.

i would have to agree. you should still be able to see any movement in any of the parts. and the last time i checked i wasnt green:wow:, i think.

a few???

the engine is alot quieter due to the changes made in them after 2002 and thru the years. they are alot more complicated though. thats about where my know ledge ends. but i am sure you will get better info fromm everyone else

i paid over $200 for my brace. $400 for both these items aint bad. wher are you getting these from John? as far as testing the shaft for movement, engine on or off i dont know. i do know if the engine is off you better find the hulk. my is like set in cncrete with out the engine running.

there is a diesel supply and garage here in columbi tn. got my connector tubes here. they had what they called grommets. they are round but square shouldered and look like they would fit over the fuel lines and inside the nut on the tee. they did not have the tee so i am going to hope they do. any way going tojump in there tomorrow and see what happens. --- Update to the previous post... i got them in today and so far the leak has stopped. 5 and 6 injectors were a little loose so i snugged them up. drove around a little and no drip from the truck. hopefullly that got it. idont relly want to do that again for a while. my right hand looks like a herd of chickens have been pecking on it. but if it stopped the leaks it was worth the pecking.

got to admit it sounds good. little to sunny out here to see the pics good. i will have to look it over this evening at the rv. for $300 you probably cant go wrong. so why dont you buy one and put it on. then we'll know for sure how good it is.

for the uneducated, what is gasket matching?

i put the steering brace on mine first and it did help some. but i think my steering was already pretty far gone. the next time i did anything i just replaced all of it so i dont know what helped the most nor exactly how to tell which parts do the most good. at 22ok i figured they all had to be pretty worn.it is a good quetion.

when i looked for mine the price did not vary much from place to place. seems new things from the major companys do not vary in price that much. i dont know that one place is better thant another. mine came thru extreme diesel, but everywher els was within 2 to 3%of the same price. i called banks when installing and thye told me i would have to direct my questions thru extreme diesel since ibought it from them. i didd not like that it is still their product. you can buy it straight thru them though and avoid that, but it costs a tad more. didnt like tha either. or you can search the want adds here. there was someone selling one for $700 a while back, brand new in the box. warranty is probably no good though. thats if you want a banks if not just start shopping around and see what you find. i cant really recomend one vendor over another.

i dont want any thing that big on my shifter. unless i had a split axle. Hmmmmmmmm..

mine all came back when i redid the ground under the hood. turns out the second ground did not come out of the wiring loom from the ottomind like i stated earlier. i have two going to the a pillar. one for the gauges and i am not sure what the other is for. it could be for the banks but i have to take the apillar off to see. if iget my fuel leak fixed i will open up and see. my system is working but it bugs me because i remember hooking up 2 grounds. i hope i did not get that mixed up with the ebrake. it has 2 grounds, one for the switch and one for the controller.

mine will do that also. i have the switch installed in the kneebolster and come to think of it it will come on the instant you flip it on. would not mind having the switch on the shifter one day. providing it is small enough. Geno's garage has a shifter knob with a micro switch in it that is pretty nice. $50 or $60 though and i think i will just wait. besides i try not to get in a position to need it on instatntly, but that doesnt always work.

mine disengages the instant you touch the throttle. ther is also about a 1.5 second delay after letting off the throttle for to engage. it is all handled thru the electronic brain. i am pretty sure this close to the same for most any ebrake. i pretty much leave mine on 100% of the time.

got a pretty good leak going on, apperantly at the return tee at the back of the block. i have gone under the truck while the engine is idling but cannot see it leaking. it is however soaking wet. the fuel is coming down and hitting the front drive shaft and is being slung all over the place. when i park i leave a small puddle of diesel and can smell it pretty good. since i cannot see it leaking i am assuming the engine needs to be under load for it to leak.anyway its going to be a pita to work on. so anything yall know to make it easier would be appreciated. i am going to buy a new tee and replace it while i am back there. is there anything else that ususally fails in that area? iam pretty much going to be committed once i take it a part. no spare vehicle and no gopher.