dripley

A little more caster maybe? Seems to help the 4 wd's. I will maxing mine out in the next couple weeks but it is a 4wd.

Some are just slower than others.

I googled "led replacement for pc74 bulb" and a large selection came up.

IIRC the 98's showed 215 and 235. I remeber when buying mine the saleman started about the HO and 6 speed. I felt like Tim Allen, MORE POWER. I was a bit surprised to see it was only 10 hp and 20 pounds of torque more. But I did'nt care at the time, just put it on me so I can get back on the road.

I love this place.

and run my truck on the left overs.

I think I would just dump it. If he can use it somewhere else fine but if there is concern why take the chance. $40 or 50 bucks vs a $5k+ dollar rebuild. I would just chuck and chalk it up to experience. Now I nothing about the oil he used so maybe my worry is misplaced, but its cheap to replace.

Yes, it could. But I would wait and see if the injectors clean up the problem. Either way you needed some new injectors. I ran my OE`s near 200k not knowing any better but did not experience what you have. I did that in about 8 years and not 23.

I did some more checking and according to Cummins Hub they did have a slightly higher HP level for the manuals in 98 but did not call them an HO until they strapped a 6 speed behind them. Marketing, you got to love it.

Nice truck. I wonder when they slipped and HO motor into a 98 on a 5 speed.

I am in Charlotte but live in Hickory. Raleigh is bit out of the way. It is odd to see the ect and iat the same except on a cold startup where they would be the same ormvery close. And the rpm is at 0 if reading the above right. Not sure about reference and value but I am assuming the value is what the tool is seeing. Do you knowmthe previous owner somyou could ask him ifmthe injectors are OE?

What part of NC.

Try putting 12v to the starter solenoid and see if it turns over. That would eliminate the starter.

This is with the engine off and cold? Cold could be miss leading depending on where you are right now.

One would hope the factory took the material into consideration with the torque specs.

Starter contacts might be worn too. That will mimic what you are seeing also.

I guess you can the guinea pig on their newer stuff then. There is a difference in the 2 vs 4 wd. The late models anyway. IIRC the uppermand lower do not line with each other and thats part of the problem. Maybe someone else could explain it. I have just come accept over the past,20 years and dont give it much thought any more. The MOOG's in mine have outlasted the oe by 50k so far so I am happy with MOOG.

Wish I could laugh at this and like it.

Just remember that EMF makes a product and has to sell it. What you are seeing is there marketing which they seem to be pretty good at it. I replaced mine around 250k I believe and had never done it before. It is pretty straight forward job but alot of work. But it can get screwed up. I would think one could screw up installing theirs also.

Was that each or all 4?

Well what a story. I am glad you have it fixed. It is odd for someone to plug that hole like that. That hole is on all the 2nd 24v. The 12v 2nd gents had a mechanical pump mounted there. On the 24v Dodge mounted an electric pump in the same location. The plate that it mounted to sealed off the hole. So the cover was factory just like mine. Evidently someone put an after market fuel system it and maybe lost the factory one. Blows my mind someone would seal it with RTV. You can an after market plate for that purpose. You just never know PO's do to their trucks. It never dawned on me to suggest that hole. Probably The first time I have ever heard of this happening to someone.

I looked at them when I had to replace mine. The price was well beyond what I was willing to pay. Think I had about 150 buck in the MOOG.

The u joints themselves are no big deal to change. It is just the part of how you have to take apart to get to them. If the front hub bearings have never been out it can be quite the job. They get rusted in pretty tight.

Yep the late models eat them. I was shocked my oe joints went near 240k before replacement and now the MOOG have almost 300k on them. Me I love longevity of parts as long as they last. I just replaced my track bar with the MOOG one with the large ball joint on it. Its my third since the rebuild of the front end 300k ago. Who knows what I will use next. They got to wear out sometime.

You can cut a block of wood to put between the alternator and your test coupling that will hold on. Mine is the same and blows off with out it.