dripley

The 230 code is for the transfer/lift pump circuit out of range. The 1693 has nothing to do with the trans. It is just one telling there is a code in the other computer, just ignore that one. There is a list of error codes in the articles section under 2nd gen 24v. When my oe Carter paump crapped the bed the truck would not run. The truck just died and would not restart. Might be the issue. Pressure check could not hurt. I doubt seriously that pump is putting out to much pressure but maybe minimal pressure. Like l said mine would not restart when that pump failed. The VP went for 75k more.

A BFH is handy tool. As far as a Smarty is cocerned I would think it would read unless it is VIN locked for code reading also. You should have a lot of fuel if you backed 5 of them. Even 2 can be messy.

You need to get the codes. Most auto parts stores will loan a scanner for a deposit. The pump might be toast. You do have fuel in tank, right? More than a quarter tank.

You should be able to see some fuel splattering by looking thru the gap between the hood and the cowl. If not crank it for a few seconds and if fuel is present you should see it on the ground. If messiness is an issue 2 people would help greatly.

Take the nuts loose where the lines go into the cylinder head, 2 is enough, 1 and 3 are easy to get to. Back the nuts all the way off. Then try cranking. If fuel is getting thru the pump you will have quite a flow from them. They're no covers to remove. Then get a scanner and check for codes. The key trick is not reliable.

Fuel at the head?

Take the 2 bolts out of the fuel filter let it lay towards the fender and there it is. But if you have the stock fuel lines you would have loosen them too. I have aftermarket fuel hose so that easy on mine. Another member here went from underneath. He loosened a couple of the clamps that hold the wiring harness so it would hang down low enough to get to.

How many cars do you have?

You could try cleaning up the first spot and sealing it. It might work. If not its not a tough job to pull the just time consuming. Did mine a while back. You will need a new front main seal while in there. Rtv would work fine on the delete plate.

Pretty much IIRC. Not much of a part for the money. But it is really good getting it in and properly indexing the motor.

Definitely easier to get to with the hvac box out. Did mine at that time.

You really to complete diagnostics for the 1689 code. The hot wire test just proves the pump will idle. You are just putting fuel and power to pump and bypassing the electronics. The computer could still be bad. Is the electrical in decent shape? Bad grounds or connections can cause issues like this. This can be tricky one and there seems to rash of them here lately.

I am running an AD 165 on mine. It is way overkill for me even for what you want. I have had 2 pump failures in the 9 years I have had it but they replaced both under warranty. This last is a 4g pump so maybe they got the bugs worked. The mechanical I dont know about. Quite a few members here have them and are very happy with them. I might have gone that route back then had I known. They seem to holding up well for others. Belts dont seem to be an issue for anyone. Electric, a 100 or 150 is plenty.

You sure the oil pressure switch has voltage on it. It is not on the 5v system as far as I can tell. The 3 wire pressure senders are part of it, orange wire carries the 5v. Even the 02 wiring diagrams dont show the single wire switch.

18 psi at idle is pretty good for an oe style pump. I only run 19 on my AD but only have a 4 psi drop at WOT. Is your lift pump mounted just behind the fuel filter on the block?

Thanks my friend, a lot of truth in your words.

If the VP is not giving you trouble l would not have replaced it.

Cycle your lift pump a few times. Sometimes helps get the fuel up there and not as hard on the batteries and starter. Funny thing, l replaced my pump head 6 years ago had a devil of time getting the engine running again. Installed a new VP last Thanksgiving, cycled the the lift pump 2 or 3 times, hit the switch and it fired off in about 3 or4 seconds.

She is liking it for sure and its paid for. Probably wont buy another 5th wheel right away. Going to retire next year and not sure what we will be doing. Darn sure not ready for another payment right now. I think we will come out alright as long as the other folks insurance takes care of the wife and her problems. They paid her for the car, $2000 + $500 for loss of use. And my insurance company has reached a fair settlement with me. Now l get to empty it. Lived in there for 15 years. It's not going to be fun.

My experiences with dead pedal have been any thing but the APPS sensor. My first experiences l took to a shop and the only they could find was very low fuel pressure from the lift pump. I put a booster pump on and the problem went away. That was 13 years ago. The next instances started about 5 years ago. Much worse than the first time. I fougth that for 2.5 years. I did find a bad splice on the 5v power to the sensors, but I also got in and cleaned up my electrical system. New cables, cleaned all the grounds, checked electrical connections. I also did a ground modifacation listed here as WT's ground mod. The problem stayed with for a while on and off and finally disappeared after all cleaning up the electrical system. Since you bought a whole bell crank assembly I have to assume it came with a factory style sender. Did you set voltage on it after install? And for future reference you only have to replace the sender and not whole bellcrank. You have aftermatket to do that. The aftermarkets are better. Pretty much plug and play. I have 500k on the original bell crank.

Just tuned differently for the application. The truck engines have to meet diffrrent standards for the highway.

One purpose of setting the pump up on a relay is to get the 12v load off of the ECM. Using the OE pig tail to trigger the relay accomplishes that and power comes from another 12v source as FASS instructions are showing with the add a fuse

Remove the 4 nuts and swap them. Nothing to it. My passanger only lasted about half as long as the drivers seat. Different material on sides. No mods necessary.

One item l left and get to check oof the list is this. 2016 Chevy Equinox. Fits the wife quite nicley. I can even the seat for me and fit in back seat comfortably. She was test drive on the so l drove. When we got back she drove thru car lot. Me and sales man lost her. I went wandering around and found making a 3 point road turn amongst all the cars for sale. I walked and she was grinning from ear to ear, looked up and said l like this back up camera. She is still smiling. One item off the list.