dripley

I don't see why not. Just clamp the line on the fittings for good luck.

The kit I used only ran from the filter to the VP and is still available at half the cost. The AD fuel system I bought took me to the filter. You will need to deal with all of it eventually but it depends on what you want to do in the future. You can google Vulcan big line kit and see what I mean. Most fuel systems are going to have a lot of what you need to get to the filter or VP included. But if your are going to be a while upgrading the fuel system the one link is not a bad either. Checking your fuel pressure under load is something you really need to do so you know where you stand with the pump you have.

Good question. I have avoided the dealer since they gave me the in tank pump for a grand. Lost my faith aftere that.

In the articles section there should be a list of trouble codes under 3rd gen 24v. Codes with diagnostics are listed.

I had glow shift fuel pressure gauge as my first and had it tapped in of the test port on the VP with nothing to protect it. Look into a big line kit from Vulcan performance, DAP sells that kit also. You can get a tapped tee to put in it for the pressure gauge and at the least put a needle valve on it. The purpose of the valve is to barley crack it open. The VP sends alot of pulses back thru the fuel line that will beat a FP gauge death. Much like this. If your budget want allow for the kit you could do this off the test port but you have to have something between the port and the gauge or the glow shift will die an early death. Some others here use the glow shift. I used one for budget reasons so no shame on being on a budget. Also Glow Shift used to have the cheapest 3 gauge A piller pod out there. Still using mine.

Well with everybody retreating to the house expecting to be locked away for the next 2 months. I hope they all stocked up on birth control. Cause I think in about the 10 to12 months we will have a whole generation our hands. They wont be boomers, so lets calll them "quaranteens".

If it was sucking some air, fixing it would make difference. I understand the head thing. I put a new clutch and brake foot pads in mine after quite a while of looking at a shiny steel plate for clutch pedal. I know I got 10 more hp out of those.

The wheels were centered and I broke the seal on the new one when I installed it. I originally thought that when had everything apart the negative cable on the drivers side battery made contact with the negative post for at least a minute maybe more while the steering wheel was off. That did happen I know for sure. I was thinking maybe the computer saw it missing and set the light. I did try to clear the code that was set but it would not go away.

It is packaged for pickup for anyone who wants to use it. The chickens don't care. The air has been on since I awapped the clock spring got the code read and it said the front drivers air bag squib was short circuited. I guess maybe I hooked it up backwards. Though from reading the code I would almost think it should have deployed if it shorted. But what do l know. Would like to get the light of though.

Probably been like that for a good while. A while longer not going make much difference.

The things folks do sometimes. Be sure and check under load. You will see a much greater pressure loss u der load than free reving the engine. Takes very little fuel to free rev. Your pressure could be pretty low under load.

Dont use the pointy end. Shoould be a warning sticker on the production version.

They will start stocking them right next to the toilet paper at a grocer near you.

48 to to be precise. 3 different decades of my life. Never would have guessed it back in 01. The chickenator. Ooooooo!!!!!!

As I do yours my friend.

A picture is all you need.

Checking previous work is a good especially with the timing of the problem.

Have you done any of the diagnostics for the code. It is pointing to the cam sensor and or the VP. The only times I have ever had blue smoke in mine is on cold morning, 20* or less, start ups since my grids are disconnected and with the failure of my 1st VP. If yours is OE iti s a prime candidate but not a sure thing.

More of this will help with that. Quiets injectors also. m

@TractormanI am always up to learning other folks experinces. I had already read it was not good to run with it stuck shut and the one time it happen my egt's shot up quickly. I limped back to house and fixed the issue. I never tried pushing it to see what happen, the instance just reinforced what I had read. Just another day of living and learning. Bet the mileage sucks driving it like that. Dave

Mine got stuck closed for some reason a good while back and under accelaration the egt's spiked like crazy. They even go up from say idle temps under braking. Nothing of concern temp wise but elevated. Do your egt's not rise from idle temp under braking? Now i will say l did not push it to the limit like you. Just saw things spiking very quickly with little to no power, backed off and figured this cant be good for anything. That was my experience.

Correct. The vacuum gear runs off of the camshaft gear and just turns the pump. It is the small gear to the right of the 2 larger gears. Have you checked for trouble codes? Might have a VP going south. The codes will help. Sorry, overlooke your thread title.

If you are going to spend the money on a Comp, pony up a couple hundred more on the Quad. You wont be sorry. It is not just a plug and play tuner, there are things to learn about it but you can move up from there more easily with the Quad if you want. Wish it had been available when l bought my Comp.

Mine is electric. I had to reset it with a 9 volt battery that came with the heater treater metal part. You do mean the motor thatnoperatesmthe blend door right?

Greg, if you use the the brake everyday I dont think lube is needed. Mine came with none and I never put any on it. I dont beleive John has either. Not sure what kind of lube would survive in that harsh of an environment. I ran mine form7 years 1 year more with the actuator off of the truck and the butterfly still moves freely. So freely I had to wire it open or it just closes on its own. John's has been going 20 years without lube. Just use it. I need to add a little something though. Mine has a controller. This closes it until the engine warms to 140*, wont let it it come on until 35 mph, shuts it off at 15mph, but most importantly it shuts it off as soon as I give it throttle. That last is pretty important, you will send egt's thru the roof very quickly with very little throttle if its closed.