dripley

I would change the rear end fluid and see whats in that fluid. Dont just pump it out pull the cover and have a good look in there.

Wheel rpm but not engine rpm. If the fluid is like muddy water you do need to change it if its not the problem it will be.

It was 300 7 years ago. FWIW

Check your rear end fluid. If you get your finger in the fluid see what color it is. If cant touch it with your finger you might have problem. Just speculating. Easy to check.

I just did a new dash bezel from LMC. Good product and fit again. But $200 to the door. Rock auto has a bezel very reasonable but I know nothing about it. It was not available when I bought mine.

Codes are good to have but are not always definitive for sure. My VP did give the 216 code but my ECM gave out a butt load codes but not a 606 to say it failed.

Not really other than maybe compared to the last few days of its life.

That is a strange noise but my old ears can barely pick it up.

Mike is pretty covered up right now but I cannot speak for him either. I will say that there is wealth of knowledge here with the members on the VP that we readily share all the time. Post up your questions, you might be surprised. This is not difficult to do if you can turn a wrench. It is all bolt off, bolt on. The pump is already set up. Just bolt it on bleed the fuel sytem and drive.

Manual or auto trans?

Keeping an eye fuel pressure is highly recommened at the least. If the lift pump craps out you will know before the VP lets you know by crapping out itself. This is true for the stock or heavily modded engine.

@Dynamic might could help with this. I know I cant.

@the7t7 Never hurts to see a mans handy work. FWIW the 02 wiring diagrams dont quite match what made it into my 02.

Well I can offer this for the ECM repair.

First off, after rereading your original post, the Chiltons manual lacks a lot to be desired. There is a factory service manual available for dowmload here. I do think you have to be a member to download though. That in itself is worth the cost. Second, what makes you think the ECM is bad? They can be pricey to fix and there a lot of rebuilders out there who dont have clue as to what they are doing.

Was anyone able to determine what caused the ECM to fail and who rebuilt it? Warranty issues seem to be the big thing with ECM's these days. When I installed mine thats what I did, plug and play. I did not know any better. Grounding yourself is a good idea. Seems the only time I get electrostatic shock on my truck is in the winter time.

The key trick is not a good way to check codes on an 00. At best you might get one computer. OBDII scanner is the best option. Maybe @Dynamic will pick up on this. He knows these trannys inside out. Good advise above to start on.

I would go back thru all your connections at the ECM VP and Cam sensor. Especially if the new sensor did not fix the 341 code. The sensor could be bad out of the box, you just dont know. These all could be bad connections or a bad VP down to a bad ECM. You have a lot diagnostics to look at. I wish I knew a quick fix. But I dont excel with this kind of issues.

@Mopar1973Man is right on the exhaust brake. I used to go maybe 60k on set of front pads. After the EB close 200k.

I belueve he just has the FASS ddrp. Hence the small strainer.

Do you have ABS sensors in the front wheel bearings? If not you only have RWAB.

How did you check for codes?

Oh yes. This one was my second plus a couple other times removing for other reasons. It is not difficult. Did this last one in a Motel parking lot. I spent about $1300 on the pump, shipping, and a couple tools I did not have with me. Not to mention motel and rental car. Close to a couple grand. A shop would have added about another $500.

I dont think so. But it is not going to care when or where it quits, if thats the problem.