dripley

The ECM does have a ground in a splice in the engine harness near the front of the motor, driverside. It is a glued splice, the WT's ground mod article covers it with pictures. Fixing that splice is part of the modifacation. When my oe VP crapped out I had the blue smoke and no power you describe. I dont remeber any white smoke. But it would be fine one moment and screw up the next, but I never had a no start issue. That being said and you are wiggling wires and seeing improvement, thats where I would start. Thowing high dollar at a problem can get pricey and you might still have the problem.

I have to agree with @Mopar1973Man on that. The ground for cicuit board is in the wiring harness and ties to the passanger battery. I can only assume that strap to the firewall is just for the case for a static charge maybe?? Not sure.

Well welcome to the forum. I cannot help with problem due to my electrical dumbness. But I have had many moments that a stay in a Holiday Inn express has helped my education. My only overdrive hunting issues involve me looking for 7th in the 6 speed.

Over heating with the fan running would worry me. Maybe something is clogged and not allowing either good water or air flow? I know the 2nd gens are prone to the radiator clogging from the crank case breather. But dont know enough about the 4th gens to offer any advice.

Next time I am down by the parts guy I found out of Charlotte I will see if he has a burl bezels and see what wants for one.

I would disagree with one thing. I have no shift linkage except for the stick sticking out of the floor. One less thing to do. All good to know though. Thanks

It is good project especially if you plan to keep the truck for while. And the benefit to your eyes is priceless. Felt like I had a new truck again. Having the AC back was almost secondary. And just to add the method @Gregturley describes is good if you have some help and would definitely make the dash pad install easier. There are 2 screws on the drivers side that are very tough to get to with the dash still in the truck, but not impossible. i have never pulled the steering column to know what time that adds to the job.

I have something that was easier if you have one. A manual tranny. Works like a charm.

I did not remove mine completely the driverside was still hanging on the mounting bolt, so the screws on that side are fun to get to. It was the easiest for me since I was alone for the tear down.

I spent 2 or 3 days on mine. I had time to do it and just did not get in any hurry. Some beer breaks were taken also. My son helped me reinstall the dash. And beings some of the screws for the dash have to be installed from the back having him was benefical. I also rebuilt the hvac box while itmwas out.

Mine have white lights in them. The gauge is the same except with a black face. But I do have little green covers to put on the bulbs to turn them green. They came from ISSPRO.

He has an 01 so it should be. I know it changed in 02 to the switch like I have, one wire to it and not 3. I dont know whether that means some late model 01's might have seen the change or some early model 02's have the 3 wire sensor. Bought my 02 in October of 01 and it has the one wire switch. I seem to remeber a few discussions on here a while back involving a bad oil pressure sensor causing other issues. Thats about all I remember though.

No, 7's at the craps table. So l learned. Thats the first alternator l ever owned for 10 years. All was working fine until l noticed it. Part of the "lf it aint broke dont fix it syndrome".

I have an AZ alternator l put on 5 years ago, 100k + miles ago. Before the WT's ground mod l was at .035 ac volts and after .010. I cant disagree on the crap shoot part but it would appear l got one built on a Wednesday from parts the were manufactured on a Wednesday. On top of that it was free due to a warranty replacement from the one i bought in Oklahoma 5 years prior. On the alternator l came out rolling 7's for about 24 hours straight. Still have oe Denso. I did not stop working but failed externally. Never lost one like that before.

I think the core charge is the least of will440's problem. The shipping and taxes in Britain would eat his lunch.

ECM rebuilding seems to be crap shoot. Replaced mine back in 09 with a lot of heart ache. We have an article on the better ones folks have used with sucess. You can hot wire the VP which takes it off of the ECM and see if you elminate the VP as the problem. Both articles can be found in articles, 24v 2nd gen, engine, and fuel. Scroll thru them they they are both there. Sorry but I cant link them with this tablet.

Check the return line tee back in behind the fuel filter canister. Follow the return line off of the the VP to where it joins a tee. The upper portion of that tee is where the return line from the head attaches as mentioned above. It could drip right on the starter. It is a pain to get to but if it is leaking you will soon be having hard starting instances.

We are all sneaky that way. If you do try plugging it in there is absolutely no reason to plug it in all night. Even at 14* an hour is enough. Ususlly put mine on a timer to come on 30 to 45 minutes before l leave when gets around 20.

The original problem you mention sounds like the lift pump died and took the VP with it. Was there a specific reason you changed the ECM and PCM? Also who rebuilt your ECM and PCM? The 237 is usually a bad MAP sensor. The 4.98 volts you are seeing is normal going into the sensors. The sensors operate on a 5 volt system. They do not make the 02 sensor any more and newer ones require a harness pigtail to put on the sensor and plug into the wiring harness. There could already be one there and I dont think the oe harness will plug onto the new sensors anyway. Worth checking if you are still getting the code. The truck should however start with a bad MAP. The 1689 is the troublesome one. No communication between the ECM and the VP. Either could be bad and that would stop the truck running. Might be time for some warraty claims.

Thats pretty much how I do mine. Next time try cycling the WTS light twice see if it makes a difference. 14 is pretty cold but it should start ok. My grids are disconnected and it will be 24* in the am. It will start but aint happy for a minute or so. Usually when gets like this i will plug mine in for 30 minutes or so before starting. That will get the block temp up to 50* or 60* and she is very happy. It still could be loss of prime as @IBMobile mentions. Just not always a cut and dry answer things. Started mine once when it was 6 months old in 10* weather without waiting on the grids, I just hit the key. It started but complained mightily. I did'nt know an engine could make that kind of noise without spitting something out. Never did that again.

Oh yeah!! Just another readon it's time to go home for me.

A leak any where in the fuel system can cause. Pressure side you should see it, return side maybe not.

Man we have come a long way thru the years. I think we have drug @JAG1's thread off topic. Sure is fun.

I have a Ryobi. The battety died. One I day l will replace it. Washer is 18 to 20 years. Dryer is 20+. Fixed them both a couple times but they just keep on doing there thing. Fridge is about 5 and the dishwasher is probably 8. Sticking money back for those right now. Between SS and my 401k I will be taking home what a bit more than I took home working with very little in taxes to pay. Or so the theory goes.