dripley

My 02 has the CAD axle. Bought it in October of 01. Some other 02's here do not have them.

Sounds like quite the journey but happy to see your well on your way to solving yhe problem.

I just keep remembering something a long while back in the 2500 to 2700 range. But again it is not something I know for sure.

Check those wheels for weight rating. I heard somewhere a good while back they are not rated for a lot of weight. Not something I know just something I heard. Could be wrong.

All this coolant temp issues and my sensor goes on the fritz last Thursday afternoon. By the time i got halfway home Friday it really wacked out. Put a spare in this morning am and its working just fine again.

How are you checking for codes?

Where did you get it for $520?

I will use them one. Never stop telling yourself that. It sustains me. Welcome. Good luck with the truck.

I towed with mine in 6th all the time. If i dropped to about 1700 rpm on a hill and still loosing I would downshift. I have about 300k on my current trans. I dont tow near as much as @NIsaacs does though.

I used a volt meter the first time I installed my Timbo. But once I saw what reading the voltage was for l have not used one since. Even the instructions say you can bolt it on and drive off.

Keep a good eye on the fuel pressure. Good advice above. This way you still have use of the wastegate so you don't overboost.

Are you currently running the truck on Smarty tune? And a big question is your tranny built for the extra HP? If it is not and you are pushing more power and pulling more weight something is going to break.

The instructions tell you to drill a 2 3/4" hole in the low point of the tank.

And all this time I thought peach brandy was all you needed.

It does look promising. But I get shivers up my spine when I start thinking about drilling a hole in the bottom of my tank. My AD set up will drain the tank. Would not like it if it did not. I run my tank low on long highway runs. As far as any experience with that sump, I have none.

You can get a brand new Holset for $500. It takes a bit more to spool than the HY but if you have a smarty you should be sble to work around it. It might even be better to go with injectors but thats above my pay grade. If you have goals for the HP you are looking for post that up. When this started I thought you were just looking for a small boost in power. How bout some more help here you guys. Getting out of my comfort zone.

@dieselautopower

If it is plugged into the ECM pigtail then the ECM should operating the lift pump at a lower pressure during cranking. It does that by cycling the pump on and off. You can see that happening on a fuel pressure gauge. Mine shows round 7 to 12 psi during cranking and near 19 at idle.

OE style lift pump?

It is not just about pressure it is about how much volume of air the turbo can move in cfm. This is when it gets over my head.

You can get a new set of Bosch RV275's for for about $400 US. I know nothing about diesel USA. You can put boost elbow on the waste gate to bleed pressure off so it opens later also.

The Smarty should boost fool. Do you have a boost gauge? Different turbos are capable of different pressures. I know your HY, if you are still stock, is good to 30 to 32 psi. It will go higher but anything above that is detrimental. My HX is good to around 34 psi. There is more to it than just the pressure and I am not the expert by any means on them. I would have to defer to more knowledgable.

I did a swap to LED's a couple months ago in clear housings, not the ones Mike linked. The reflectors are much different. Housings and bulbs $110. So far so good.

DAP is a good ource for injectors. New rv275 or remns. I have set of the remans in mine now nd they're working just fine. My fisrt RV275's were new ones and they were great to. Nothing special in the way of tools is needed. There is a removal tool for the cross over tubes but it is not necessary. A small bladed screwdriver will pop them out. In OE trim the ecm will only allow about 20 psi of boost. It will set a trouble code and defuel the engine when you go over. The fooler fools the ecm into not seeing anything that high. In oe trim the waste gate on the turbo opens near 20 psi to stop that from happening. You can build more boost with boost elbow that bleeds pressure off the waste gate so opens later. More air=more fuel=more power. Believe or not your fuel economy will helped unless you ride around with foot on the floor. If you just put the injectors in and remain stock you dont need one, but whats the fun in that. I drove mine around for about 3 years with nothing but RV275's and it is a nice little bump power. You can try it out that way and see how you like it and if you want more you can ad a small tuner with the fooler built into it and get some more power. It all depends on how far you want to take it.

It does not take much to tighten those bolts. I usually do mine with a 1/4" drive socket wrench and snug them down. Never has leaked.Nothing wrong with torquing though.