kzimmer

Yeah I think that's the challenge with ATF, and especially with tractors with hydrostatic transmissions, wet clutches similar to ours, and also a need to power hydraulic implements and lubricate components in extreme situations. I'm confident that it'll do well.

So I want going to start putting my case back together today, and I thought I should check out the low roller clutch cam (race) pressed into the case. I noticed some discoloration on the it. Looks like heat, but also pretty localized to a small area. I put my hand in it and noticed it wiggled a little... Not good. So I pounded it out, and I can see it spun off its teeth. Now what? I've read about bolt-in replacements. I'm over 1000 lbft of torque. What are my options? I'm going to do some more research on this but I'd like to know if there's any first hand knowledge around here for this problem. Pictures below. Thanks in advance!

I've done quite a bit of research on oil for these trans. Learned a lot from the guys using 727's for racing as well. I've decided on John Deere Hy-Gard, the Low Viscosity version, J20D. I don't want to start an oil war here. I have my reasons. I just picked up 30 liters last week to flush and fill with my new rebuilt trans and converter. I don't want to use an oil that promotes slippage for comfortable shifting. I want the clutches to grab and hold on for dear life.

First of all, beautiful truck. Good job on the build. What is your converter stall RPM? I'm wondering if you made the same mistake as I did and got a low stall converter. Low stall, big turbo, all dog on the low end until it lights up. Super lame on the green light. I'm putting a Goerend stock stall in mine next month and pulling out a POS low stall unit I had. I'm really excited to spool faster. With my lockup switch, and second gear lockup ability, low stall converter is moot for me. I'd rather get the turbos lit. There are a lot of good points in the above posts. I'll talk about what I know from personal experience. YMMV. I ran 7x.014 injectors with the quad. They were a little hard to control smoke with power. Better with V2 but not great. When I checked the injectors with the pop tester, they were as low as 280 bar, and a mixed bag up to 295 maybe. I bumped these up to 335 ish +/- 5 bar (I'm sorry I can't remember the exact number at the moment, but that's the ballpark). I immediately noticed that I was able to add more fuel down low in the sub 10 psi range, smoke was much better, and it spooled the turbo like it never had before. THIS IS PURELY EXPERIMENTAL. Your milage may very. However, it's a cheap experiment. I don't believe I lost any fuel flow in the top end even with the higher pop. The truck doesn't have to smoke a lot, even with 300 HP injectors. The 7x.014's I had were dirty, and I was able to clean them up reasonably. Follow the tuning guides and you can make as much or as little smoke as you feel necessary. Once you get going on it you'll fly through it. Just start slow. Timing is a tough one, no two VP44's seem to be the same. Listen to your truck and watch the tail pipe. It'll tell you if it's not happy. Check out some other tunes and look at they're timing settings. Read about them. Play with low boost high throttle timing reduction to pick up some low end spool time. Tinker. You'll get it right. Not today. Not tomorrow. But you will. Take your time. I too have 35" tires and 3.55's. The truck drives fine. Would 4.10's drive better when towing? F yeah they would. Would it improve lockup and OD shift timing that for some reason no one has the tuning ability to alter? F yeah they would. Are they needed? F no they aren't. My truck drives fine, even with the garbage low stall converter. Again, I do want 4.10's, I think there's big benefit in doing so. But I don't believe it's going to render your truck non drivable. That thing's going to kick *** and take names. Don't give up. Also: Torque management. Enough said there. Possible to overcome, but hard to get consistent results.

If it was a closed transition transfer switch, it likely closed in out of sync and caused a bolted short. That could be a very large bang if there isn't proper upstream protection and arc flash mitigation.

The best way I know to make an electrolytic capacitor explode is to connect it reverse polarity. Kaboom. I've only seen it with tiny ones.

Yep, what you're describing is a 3 phase full wave bridge rectifier. Except it doesn't just look like DC, it is DC. Current only flows in one direction. The diodes actually don't clip the voltage, but block the flow of current in one direction at all times. 6 diodes are used in a 3 phase full wave bridge rectifier. There is, however, a small fluctuation in voltage. This fluctuation is measurable as AC voltage, and is what we call the AC ripple voltage. Moving the charge wire doesn't make this phenomena disappear. However, maybe it helps the effects be less apparent in other areas. In diode based rectifier design, it is imperative to use a properly sized DC filter capacitor to cut down the ripple, especially when sensitive electronics are used. For whatever reason, this isn't standard practice in the automotive industry. One might assume the engineers tried to design around this by adding extra power supply filtering before the electronics, IE right on the ECM/PCM. Even in our trucks, the ripple seems to be manageable until the alternator diodes fail open circuited. I'll be wiring in a 200A solenoid in series with my grid heater power supply that will not allow the grids to be energized while the truck is running. This should help save my alternator diodes, leave the grids fully functional before starting the engine, with no manual intervention or push buttons, and avoid any CEL's.

I couldn't build a square if you gave me four equal sides.

Good stuff, this has been bugging me for a while. @portlandareae28 did you find out if you have the harness behind your door panel?

Excellent, thank you. This is on my to-do list that's a mile long. Wait... So are the controls for the passenger side mirror located on the door panel right on the passenger side mirror? That seems counter productive, lol. Drivers control on the drivers door makes sense. Since the driver is adjusting. Or are they both controlled from the same switch? I hope so.

If this is true, I'd have to ask why as well. Everything is DC. DC current does not induce any substantial noise in parallel conductors, so there must be something I'm missing.

Mine is wired for it, but I don't have a switch. Where is the factory switch location for the power mirrors? And the defrost?

Yep. Been a while though. Unless there's something I missed.

But why not just fix the source of the AC noise? I thought the offender of the AC noise issue was open alternator diodes. You can move the charge wire, but electrically it's still connected to the same node that it used to be. Just instead of being 2 feet away from the fuse box, now it's 5 feet away from the fuse box. It's essentially the same connection it used to be, with some length of copper in between. Maybe having the point of contact closer to the battery does help filter a little, but I just can't see it being a major mediation of substantial AC ripple. Even a perfectly working alternator will have some ripple; that's the nature of any diode based rectifier. Did you know AC ripple can present itself across a bad cell / battery in a multi battery configuration? Ideally, DC filter capacitor would be the best solution to cut down the ripple on any 3 phase full wave rectifier. However, that's potentially another maintenance item. Was it moving the charge wire that helped, or fixing the deficient grounds? Sorry for the derail @Finlandese. The skeptic in me must know the truth!

I gotta ask, why do people feel this is so important? Definitely not trying to be ignorant here, no disrespect. I'm just asking as a professional in the field of electronics and electrical. And I love a good debate, haha.

The alternator field winding leads. I think this is a very rare failure, but since it happened to @Mopar1973Man it's apparently possible.

I wouldn't think so.

Wait... I can't remember, hopefully someone else does, but if a lockup switch is installed, and you set the switch in 3rd, locking the trans, and pull the lever down to manual second, does the trans downshift and unlock, or does it stay in 3rd locked? Reason I'd like to know this is because if you're lockup wire is shorter to ground it may act that way. But then, with the shift lever in D, it should be locking up in second, so that's probably not the case. You can lock the converter in Auto 2nd on our trans, just not manual second without valve body modification. Food for thought.

I don't have your answer, but have you contacted Smarty directly?

Because it locks when it should, and unlocks when you downshift, I would be inclined to say the problem is internal to the valve body. But I am not an expert, just my opinion.

I'd have to agree. Even on my Android head unit, IQuad is the only device that struggles. I've tried numerous devices, phones, OBD2 Bluetooth, etc, never any problems. But IQuad is very hit and miss, and with certain versions of android on this device it wont work at all. No other device has a problem. Maybe an extension harness to bring the Bluetooth module inside the cab would alleviate some problems, but I don't think all of them. I might just cut and splice the harness to test this theory.

That makes sense. Two different materials that are the same temperature may measure as different temperatures if you check them both with the same emissivity setting.

All of our IR devices (steel mill) that measure heat on raw steel use .88 for emissivity. Typically 1500-2500 °F for our application.

Oil changes Frontand rear bumper R&R Side view mirrors R&R Projector headlamp install with LED bulbs R&R all other light housings/covers Paint entire truck with Bedliner Double din android head unit install Drivers seat replacement Drivers door adjustment to stop wind noise due to warpage Radiator R&R for degreasing Thermostat change Belt change Front crank seal Timing cover gasket Rear crank seal Tappet cover gasket Compound turbo install Injector R&R Injector rebuild Injector pop testing & shimming ARP head stud install Rocker arm replacement 47RE trans rebuild at home Tie rod ends, ball joints, and other front end work Shocks Rear leaf springs Front and rear sway bar links/bushings Drive shaft R&R Trans/Tcase R&R Compound turbo install (HX35 over HT60) VP44 Injection Pump R&R Custom lift pump setup with a Walbro 392 (I don't care what anyone says, it IS enough fuel if lines are done properly) Fass fuel pressure regulator Probably missing some stuff here. All work done myself. More to come in the next couple if months: Snapped the flex plate last spring, so trans is out again. BD black oxide flex plate on order. While I'm at it, ordered a Goerend triple disk 17SS converter, no more slippage. While the trans is out I'd be foolish not to go through it again, and while it's apart I'm throwing in Alto Red Eagle power packs and cranking the line pressure up. Because of the triple disk I'm putting in a TCS Canada input shaft. Leaving the intermediate and output stock. The output shaft will be my mechanical fuse, since it can be replaced by dropping only the overdrive section. Trans will be getting John Deere Hy-Gard Low Viscosity oil (J20D). Also got some Crower valve springs and Manton 7/16" x .120" push rods coming so I can turn the Quad up to 3700 RPM and not worry about float, or worry about blowing a valve open at high boost. Got a different fuel pump off Amazon that flows a little more just for insurance. Will keep the Walbro as a spare. Truck will be mobile again this spring after being down for a year. Will get back on the Dyno some time in 2019 for some steady state timing tuning and to get some new HP/Torque numbers. Expecting some bigger numbers if I can keep the trans from slipping. Shouldn't be a problem now. I should also note that a few of these items were done with the help of the articles section. Thank you Mopar1973Man.com!

Need more detail. Are you saying the converter is locked up as soon as you put the truck in gear? Locked in all forward gears? Locked in reverse too? Or when you are driving and get to 2nd/3rd gear it locks and won't unlock? When you say early 47RE, do you mean from an older truck with different electronics in the valve body? @Dynamic maybe able to help with some more info about the symptoms.