kzimmer

I can't remember where the final revision ended up for quad takeover of fuelling. @Me78569 might clarify. I thought TPS had to be >0%, and RPM above a certain number, maybe 1100 or something, and 100 rpm hysteresis? That's a complete shot in the dark. Likely about 10% truth there so take it for what it's worth. Now that I think of it... I think maybe TPS was not part of it, because of the trucks with drive by wire cruise control. TPS = 0 on these trucks while cruising.

I only have a 4km commute to work. So even my diesel Jetta, with the draw from the glow plug cycles on a cold day, it doesn't keep the batteries fully charged. The trickle charger is key.

Agreed, you're good. On my diesels I always wire up a permanent trickle charger under try hood that charges the battery any time I plug the block heater in. No issues with the quad.

When I had my truck on the dyno, smoke started coming out from under the hood. Turns out, some of that insulation fell down and was touching the exhaust manifold. Started to smolder.

This has been the longest coldest winter in my memory. I said the same thing last year, but this was worse. So many -30°C days and -40 to -48 windchill mornings. I'm ready do dig the camper out of the snowbank and go.

I'd say the map sensor is a good place to start. Also make sure your jumper in the ADR box is set properly. See this post:

Heres a panoramic picture of my back yard this morning. -22° C. Plenty of snow left. Play structure I put together for my girls last summer. BBQ, Bradley smoker, and my Green Mountain Davy Crockett pellet grill, which currently has a meaty pork shoulder sitting on it. Pulled pork this afternoon. https://photos.app.goo.gl/6HpaWarUpWdv41DX9 Not sure if this picture is viewable with the Google link. If not, let me know and I'll upload it as an attachment.

The same thing happened to me. I still worry about it. Got what I could by hand (hopefully all of it) and that was about 20,000 kms ago.

I don't care what boat it is, if I can retire on it, at 50, sign my *** up. Looks like spring compared to here, hoping for some weather above freezing some time soon!

Hourly... Thankfully! Did it ever... Gave the government 47%. I'm not sure what income tax is like down there, but we get molested.

I hear ya... Last pay period I clocked 187.5 hours in 14 days. Busy time of year.

Don't play with wiretap until you get your canbus fuel map adjusted properly.

My map is also close, 1-2 for sure.

I don't know if this helps but when my truck had a bad map sensor it was stuck at zero all the time.

This was almost a year ago. I broke the truck shortly after this post was started and haven't fixed it yet. Haven't done any work with the lockup. Very interesting article though, I haven't seen that one around, thank you for the info. As someone that works in the electrical controls industry, it is not standard practice to run one analog device to two separate analog inputs on two separate measurement devices. Will it work? Probably. Is it a good idea? Likely not. I think there is probably a reason the ECM repeats the signal to the PCM, instead of paralleling the two inputs to the one sensor. I was able to watch the throttle position % on IQuad and recreate the problem every time. I'm confident a dirty signal didn't cause my problems. 3.54 gears, 35" tires, and a non adjustable PCM caused my problems. Fixing any one of those 3 things would help my situation. I'd prefer #3 but as far as I know it's impossible. My truck is also calibrated for tire size. I could move the lockup and 4TH gear shift if I lied to the truck about tire size. But then my speedo would be off. To add: I just saw the part where they say to tie the apps signal return wire to ground. Ugh! No! Wtf ATS?

If I had been discouraged every time a female told me to F off, I wouldn't be married with kids. And... Don't forget to test drive her several times before you bring her home. Lol.

I'm out of my level of expertise here, other than knowing it should be 0% with your foot off and 100% when it's to the floor. Is it the same with the truck not running, key on? Is the idle rpm correct?

Should see 0%. Have you performed the APPS relearn procedure?

I definitely don't think it's normal. My point was that the quadzilla likely won't help. When mine does it, it's caused by the quad and how it's set up.

I don't believe the quad will help this situation. This may not be relevant, but if I free rev my truck with heavy throttle mine will studded and blow a bit of white smoke. That's from retarded injection timing due to the low boost high throttle timing retard feature to allow faster turbo spoolup.

Looks like max AC ripple of about 30 mV peak to peak, divide by 2 to get 15mV peak, divide again by √2 (square root of 2, or 1.414) to get 10.6mV RMS.

Agreed. But his meter doesn't show 0.57 volts, it shows 0.57 mv, or .00057 volts. Low quality meter or not, it's on the mV scale. Will likely be more accurate than a meter that's sitting on the 20v scale or similar. Regardless, telling him to pull the alternator based on that reading was bad advice. @2001white I'm a little late to this, but if you want an easy way to test the alternator's contribution to this problem, disconnect the main alternator fuse and go for a drive. Hopefully your new apps solves your problems.

That's not 57 millivolts, or 0.57 volts. That's 0.57 millivolts! That alternator is likely fine!

Follow the front line from the trans. That's the pressure line. The return is the rear. If I remember right, the pressure line goes to the oil/water heat exchange on the passenger side block first, then to trans cooler.

Yep. I broke my flex plate. That's why my trans is out right now. I am going to get a BD black oxide flex plate. Doesn't appear to be any damage to the trans but I haven't pulled the pump yet. The converter stayed in place, so I don't anticipate damage. I guess we'll see.