kzimmer

I should also mention that the truck is almost impossible to stall now. I tried my best. I was only able to stall it once, below operating temperature, by putting it in reverse, holding the brake, and stabbing the throttle from 0 to 100 to 0 as fast as possible. And even that took a lot of effort.

When I put it into gear (Auto) while in high idle, it's pretty violent. Not a huge deal, just need to remember to bump the throttle before I put it in gear.

I think it's likely more effected with less commanded fuel, less effected with more commanded fuel.

I hate that they did that.

THIS POST IS A WORK IN PROGRESS, AND MAY CHANGE. I'm going to start adding data from my testing. Please be patient while I get everything together in one post. This may take a couple days. 365bar vs 330bar rev4.xlsx Above is the raw data and charts in Excel. I will likely revise this a couple more times,especially since I may redo my 330 bar 30 mph 3rd gear locked test to match up closer to the speed of the 365 bar test. The data might be a little skewed. All tests were done on the same road, same stretch, same direction, same time of day. 1 day apart. Ambient temperature within 3°C. Wind unknown, and very well could have played a factor. All results are subject to external variables out of my control. Notes for the Charts: I tried to get a lot of data in the charts, and I tried to get all of the data to look different enough to be legible. If something is too hard to read, please refer to the Excel spreadsheet attached to view the raw data. I will also post a couple "Summary" spreadsheets. The time unit for most of the charts is in 0.25 second intervals to match the Quadzilla logs. Example: Time units 0 through 10 would be 2.5 seconds. WOT From a Stop 365bar 0-80mph Take 1 20180105 101212-4.m4v 365bar 0-80mph Take 2 20180105 101442-5.m4v 330 Bar 0-80mph Take 1 20180106 111803-1.m4v 330 Bar 0-80mph Take 2 20180106 112000-2.m4v As you can see, the WOT from a stop is almost a complete wash. The data shows the 330 Bar being extremely marginally quicker, with EGT's very slightly higher. This is consistent with both logs. Question for discussion: Assume for a moment the information above has no error from extraneous variables. Could this small but measurable increase in acceleration, and a minor increase in average EGT's (especially in the low end, not shown in the summary charts) be a result of the lower pop pressure, allowing just a little bit more fuel to be injected? I think so. The theory makes sense. 3rd Gear Spoolup The following 3rd Gear Spoolup test data might be a little less reliable because of the difference in speed. 3 MPH faster start on 330 Bar, translates to about 70 rpm according to the logs. 365bar 30mph-80mph Locked 3rd 20180105 102428-6.m4v 330 Bar 30-80 Mph Locked 3rd 20180106 112241-3.m4v Regardless of starting point, you can clearly see faster spoolup with the 330 Bar, with higher EGT's. Not a ton higher, but higher. This follows the data from the 0-xx MPH WOT tests. Here's some charts comparing one parameter at a time between 365 bar and 330 bar: Again, higher EGT with the 330 bar. From more fuel? And finally, here is the results from cruise control set at 64 MPH, in 3rd gear and OD. This one really caught me by surprise. Same road, same direction, same time of day (24 hours apart). I believe wind conditions were similar, but I don't have that data. I think the data speaks for itself here. Or does it?

Do you think it's possible that this truck has had some kind of manual to auto swap? Maybe check the VIN with dodge?

I think there was a TSB to flash a change to the trucks to make the oil pressure gauge read more like an idiot light, "good" or "bad". Because people complained that pressures would appear to be high or low in certain circumstances (high vs low temp, low vs high rpm). Not the stupidest thing I've heard this week but it's in the top 5.

Fair enough. Don't forget, however, that the 2nd gen fan clutch is not electronically controlled. I don't know if that's really an argument, but the temp of the fan clutch is not necessarily the same as the coolant temp. I had the same thoughts that you have posted however. I did quite a bit of reading about it and decided the fan shouldn't run any more unless I have other problems and the thermostat can't keep up. I'm excited to find out.

I kinda thought maybe it was sized to remove the crossover tube or something. Mines still in the box.

I'll monitor my fan lockup this summer, but I was under the impression the fan wouldn't lock up until a temperature quite higher than 200°F.

I'm having similar problems. I think I'm losing prime. I'm going through the fuel system from start to finish either this weekend or next. It gets worse the longer the truck sits without running.

Any EGT or boost level defuel set?

I don't know, and I don't wanna know. Lol.

I'd keep the wiretap off with that turbo. Here's my old one. And this was while it was compounded with an HT60. Replaced the HY with an HX.

Any chance you can post the tune details? In order to view it in iQuad I have to change my vehicle type.

That makes sense. It's just strange they all settled the exact same amount. And only in a month and a half. I almost want to pull them and check them again. ... Just kidding no I don't. No more injector removal please. Haha.

I data logged a bunch of stuff for @Me78569's thread, got a couple videos, and pulled my injectors today. This is really interesting and I'm wondering if @dieselautopower might have some insight to an amature pop tester. When I installed these injectors in November, I set them all to 365 bar. I'm very sure of that. Each one triple checked. When I took them out, they all tested between 350-355 bar. So I lost 10-15 bar. Same testing fluid, similar temperature conditions. Same pop tester. I'm happy that they were all still balanced, I'm just confused about the change. I set them all between 330 and 335 bar. I'll do some more logging tomorrow at the new pop pressures, and take a couple more videos. I have a lot of data to go through and no computer with me. Yes absolutely. And I don't want to comment as absolute yet, but I immediately noticed a longer spoolup time when going WOT from a dead stop at 330 bar. Also more visible smoke. Timing and fuel adjustments might make this better, but too early to tell, and I'm not changing anything until all my data is collected tomorrow. I haven't noticed much different up top yet, but sub 2000rpm (spoolup) seems to have suffered.

Yeah yeah I'll get it haha. 3rd or OD for the 35mph pull? When my torque converter slips it should really help spoolup lol.

Don't I know... Add in nozzle changes, cleaning, and amature pop testing (I'm a noob so it takes a while)... FFS. 340 bar better be good, lol. First thing tomorrow I'm hitting a stretch of highway and doing some data logging before I change out.

Let me know how they work for you, I'm at the same setup. I'm repopping tomorrow to 340ish. I am curious how they start in the cold. I wish you were in a colder climate so we could compare.

It's pretty common. There's at least a few threads about it on this site alone. Happened to me once. One theory, that I particularly like, is that while standing on the throttle, maybe timing is a little too advanced, pressures in the cylinder are very high. While cylinder pressures are still high, and you let off the throttle very abruptly, the pressure in the cylinder may overcome the injector, and backfeed air into the fuel line. I'm not saying that this is for sure the problem, as I think there are multiple schools of thought for this. I'm not 100% sold on it, but it has some merit. All I know is I bled my fuel lines and it never happened again. I have also since raised my injector pop pressure, maybe that's coincidental. Try not to let off the go-pedal too fast, and carry a 3/4 wrench with you. I've learned not to let off too fast in most cases anyway, because I don't like to bark my turbo.

I'm surprised to hear that you guys just get in and go. I always have this guilty feeling if I drive before things are warmed up. I guess I just always assumed it could do damage. I use my ears a lot when I drive, and when I hear something different, I assume something is wrong, or in danger. I never thought about just not driving it hard...

I had something similar happen once. I was driving and the check gauges light came on. Volt meter went to zero, but the truck didn't die. Made it home. Shut the truck off. Turned the key back on, and the volt meter went back over 12 volts. Hasn't happened again since. I'm sorry my experience won't be of any help, but I am definitely interested in hearing the solution to your problem when you figure it out.

I hear that... We finally warmed up to -7 °C today. On Saturday morning we went on a road trip, and it was -35°C at home, -37 in the first town we passed. Crazy cold. It's been while since I've experienced that much cold. I took the VW. Couldn't barely build any heat inside. The manual trans groaned every time I stepped on it from the cold gear oil. Brutal. @Me78569 are you still running 330 Bar?

I have a 150km drive tomorrow evening and I'm planning on doing some logging on the way there at 365 bar. The wife can take a couple videos in my cracked passenger side mirror (woops) and then Friday or Saturday I'll re-pop a little lower.