trreed

Hot retorques are dangerous. There is a video floating around of a guy snapping an ARP 625 on a hot retorque. Cold (or ambient temp) retorques are good. And I think the block heater won’t go over 140*, which is the high side of cold.

@Dieselfuture, I guess I missed why you didn’t go for OEM Cummins seals for the VP head? Can you elaborate on that?

Extended cab is a cab and a half, which is very popular because it was the largest cab you could get with a second gen. This is a crew cab with four full size doors: These are all conversions, usually using Chevy rear doors that have been reworked to match the Dodge body. There were three or so conversion outfits out there doing this. Some are done really well. Others are... well you get what you pay for.

They're all conversions. No factory crew cab was ever made. It's also not Mike's. He's got an extended cab long bed. But those conversions are out there. Matter of fact there's a guy in Texas who found a crew cab long bed conversion and he just finished a sport front end swap and dually conversion. Looks fantastic.

Just wait until you do the retorque!

Would be your best bet if you’re not looking to massage the sheet metal

I sure didn’t have a whole 1/4” clearance issue when I did mine. It does look like the relief for the passenger wiper arm mechanism is right there though

I don’t remember any issues like that when I did mine, but it has been almost a year and a half. No good way to wiggle it around?

I swear it used to be right side up. That Colorado air now affects YouTube apparently

You'll still find some smoke on the stock tuning because the Dodge ECM is calibrated for the smaller nozzles yet. Best advice is to not get on the skinny pedal when your under the turbo. That will cause the most smoke. Wait until the turbo is spooled to get on it. As for Quadzilla University: Unfortunately, as @Me78569 says, the video is flipped. Unsure if he's got a fix for it. But this is the basics for the V2 tuning.

Blue smoke is oil. It's either valve seals, bad head gasket, bad rings, or worse. There are no other symptoms. Cold oil gets in the cylinders and can't combust like the fuel does, and so you get the rough idle. Easiest is to pull the valve cover, dig around in the oil for parts of the seals, and check the seals visually. It's a 10 minute job.

Mike's pictures show you what to look for. Valve stem seals are about two hours to replace. 53 blocks are only really an issue if you start it cold and beat the piss out of it before it's warmed up. Most problem 53 blocks have already cracked anyways. It's been 17 years since they were cast. These trucks are a pain in the *** but these issues you're thinking of selling it over are general maintenance and upkeep.

Luck of the draw. Age, lack of use, excessive use, abuse (like @Dieselfuture said), worn guides, etc

With the cost of replacing injectors stock for stock, you might as well keep your eye out for a used tuner to use with your current ones.

Well, there’s a couple ways. Most likely is one or more of the 24 valve stem seals.

Oil is getting into the combustion chamber.

There is no way to say. It ultimately comes down to the specific properties of the batch of metal used for the springs and the nozzles, and there is always a tolerance allowance. All you can do is use clean fuel and 2 stroke.

Damn. I can only hope to find swap parts that cheap. Only reason I have compounds is because I found the pipe kit for $400

Yes. P pump for Quadzilla ?

Trade?!!!!

I can already tell you what Mike’s tip for that S03 will be.... sell it and get a quadzilla!

Are you wanting to use HP tuners on a VP truck? Can't tune mechanical injectors beyond pop pressure, pintle lift, and orifice size...

Yeah that's normal. It's not just an open orifice with a turn table in there to direct fuel. There's actually a check ball and a pressure relief slide to pressurize each injection line, among other little pieces.

Whether you need studs or not really comes down to timing. Low timing numbers will usually be ok with high boost. Once you start getting to 20+ degrees and high boost is when you’ll be playing with fire and have the potential to pop a head gasket.