trreed

Headlight build is again on hold until I get a new retaining nut from Morimoto, as the little thin one stripped . Meanwhile, I now have this: So if you care, come check out the newest level of degenerate shenanigans courtesy of me.

Recently made a purchase. It is a 1996 E350 Club Wagon, complete with a forged rod 7.3L Power Stroke. Buddy found this van on Craigslist for $1000 advertised as non-running, non driving, had a bad title, and no pictures. But they guy responded. So we headed to look at this thing, and found that it DID run, DID drive, DID have a clean title, and of course was nasty cause he was living out of it off and on (and it was $1000). We talked the guy down to $600 and the Boost Bus was acquired. Right now the rear seats and interior panels are completely stripped out, side doors don't work, only one rear door opens, and the lock cylinders in the front doors don't work so the lock is a padlock on the rear barn doors. I want to lower it, put a tuner on it and take it down the drag strip at least once. Eventually we want to put seats and a mini-bar in it. Additional thoughts or ideas? Of course, a $600 vehicle with 309k miles is not without issues. Turbo needs a little help before any burnouts can take place.

That's a pretty accurate description ^

Manton makes the pushrods for Hamilton and DAP. Last I checked a set of 12 was around $130 for the same thickness and diameter as the top right picture from DAP..... Crower springs are $113. Good parts can be had at good prices with some asking around.

Good it's not a crack! I just have springs and studs. No pushrods yet, and stock cam. You shouldn't need any of that for 500 hp. If you're dead set on springs and studs for peace of mind reasons, going directly to manufacturers can save you hundreds versus buying from a name brand (and the name brand is just re-branded anyways).

First picture, left side, on the external stud and boss. If you floated the valves, you'd have way bigger issues than just torn seals. I think it's just the luck of the draw. For aftermarket springs, I'm using Crower units out of a Neon, P/N 68190-24. Once installed the Cummins, the seat pressure is ~110# I just went through again and tuned a little more out of them at low boost..... Too much off-idle smoke yet.

Why is there a crack in your head that extends from the boss through the washer? Without pulling the head, there isn't really a way to take one spring out at a time. Easiest to pull injectors. Stock springs will look like they almost bind when the valve is opened. I wouldn't be worried.

SCR is probably the best emission control out there. The Stage V Cummins industrial motors were released not that long ago, without an EGR because the DPF/SCR combination can control emissions better than the EGR. Now if only it wasn't so damn corrosive.

We got both definitions on here. As always, it's all open to interpretation!

It's also an old (lol, released in 2004) Blake Shelton song about how his day has gone to **** and he wants to be anywhere else. Which I think is what @notlimah was going for.

Yeah I got sidetracked. Trimming of shrouds and housings is complete, and tonight I should be aiming and closing the housings up, and setting the adjustable bucks.

Laramie Limited this time, right?

The world is telling you to stick with a 2nd gen....

It's just what compounds do. If I'm lucky I can cruise at 5-7 psi

Getting closer to done!

lol, considering level 3 for me is roughly the same power as my old 62/ 7x0.0095 combo on full wiretap, it's nice to be capped. Also, I cruise around 10 psi of boost usually, so the fuel savings are real

I'm always on lvl 2. It's a nice cap for the truck to keep it at the DD power I want versus all the time, all the time.

Thank you! I'm leaning heavily towards the Arachnid. My buddy (who went half in on this van with me) is still leaning towards the Hydra. Decisions, decisions.

People will run VCO for smoke control mostly.

Another question about the Arachnid. Pardon my ignorance about 7.3s, but I might have picked up a '96 model and want to try this out, and know nothing yet. Is there a list of tunes per switch setting floating around? I'm curious because a friend of mine is pushing the Hydra, but I really like my Adrenaline.

I waited an hour for the rtv on the cover to set. And it hasn't leaked yet. I had a lot of pinion play before I filled mine and drove it. Afterwards, almost no play at all.

How did the pattern turn out?. If you took the carrier out easily, that means the original preload was gone. My D80, the carrier fell out of the housing, and when I put it back in, it was so tight that I had to kick it in lol.

Sounds like your ECM isn't regulating voltage during cranking. Usually, the ECM commands 50% duty cycle to the lift pump during cranking to keep cranking pressures to 7-12 psi, as Bosch states. You are correct, originally, you are supposed to hook the relay fuse to the ECM to control the AirDog. What fuel pressures are you seeing while cranking?

I believe it is the thickness of the shim pack to get you started. Dana parts usually have a +/- # to indicate how many shims to add or remove to get to the correct pinion depth. Obviously, you'll have to set up the gears and that number may change.

Separate probes.