trreed

I have a 50-100* difference between my adrenaline and my AutoMeter gauges. And my adrenaline always reads high for boost. Trust the analog gauges

I agree with @Mopar1973Man. The whole velocity stack idea works so much better on an N/A engine than a FI engine. The process of compressing the air mostly negates the cold air intake theory (but cooler, denser air is always the answer), as the intercooler is going to bring the IAT value down, and you sure won't have laminar flow after going through the compressor wheel.

Not sure you're going to see much benefit from one.

You might see a small gain. There is only few percent difference in flow acceleration versus a pipe with a slight radius (stock, BHAF, etc) and a smooth radius. A longer stack will net more gains than a short guy like this:

Only thing a velocity stack would do for you is reduce the amount of turbulence of the air going into the compressor wheel, and speed the flow up (hence the name).

Do you have a pin gauge? Without one best you can do is guess the orifice size. I would pull all 6 to be able to check all tips for damage.

Do you have a dragging brake? Have you looked at the injector nozzle tips? Something is still goofy.

I was up at Cody. Back in Denver now

Man oh man. Glad all my vehicles are covered and I’m in Wyoming. Found out my pickup fits in the garage, just barely.

Perfect timing! not....

Compatibility charts state this is compatible with D70's found in 2nd gen pickups, but there is never a spelled out sentence where it states it is for a 70U

There is is! Right out of Eaton's catalog

Not the greatest explanation, but shows how the moving parts interact. Operates on the principle of gear separation. Basically the helical gears mesh harder into each other when the side gears have a difference in speeds, even down to stopping the wheel that has little traction to equalize the load.

VCO is the nozzle you're wanting.

Our transfer cases use these mechanical vacuum switches. Regardless, the Chevy transfer case would be difficult to adapt a mechanical switch into a motorized unit. If you don't have a vacuum pump/PS pump combo, how do you use your HVAC controls? And is the replacement pump able to run the power steering and your separate circuit for your other hydraulic needs?

Agreed. I see stuck unison ring issues in the future of many of these units. @04Mach1, 6.0 trucks had Garrett turbos. 6.4 had the factory compounds from Borg. (which were still problematic)

For every day driving, it's hard to beat a Dana Trac-Lok (factory unit). Easy to pull apart and restack clutches as mentioned above. In a perfect world, I'd like to find an Eaton TrueTrac unit because it's a helical design so no clutches to wear out.

CAD is vacuum switch. No computer control.

Because gravity is trying to accelerate you towards the Earth's core at 9.81 m/s^2. That's really fast, and really good at holding things down.

Don't be so quick to condemn. They'll pop up again under some other account in a week or so. Just how it works.

Depends on the shop I've found. I had one in golden test mine like you describe, and I've never gone back. Others have put it on the rollers, ran it light for 30 seconds and handed me a sheet that said all 0's. So that's my preferred shop now lol. Oh and they didn't care about the additional turbo or lack of anything in the exhaust pipe.

Rock Auto also has genuine Spicer gears for around $200 for the ring and pinion. Timkin bearings are another $200. Shim kit is separate for some reason. There is also a carrier break somewhere around the 4.10 area for Dana axles. I've seen accounts that the break is at 3.73 / 4.10 and also that the break is at 4.10 / 4.56. But I'm almost certain that it's at 3.73 / 4.10, so you'd need a 4.10 carrier. Something to research before buying gears. Edit: Do you have a D70 or a D80? If you have the D80, it looks like rock auto offers Spicer gears with a thick ring gear to use your current carrier. D70 does not have this option looks like

That wasn't directed at you @MtnManMegaCab....

Ignorance is bliss!

I’ve heard a rumor that if you take the crankshaft position sensor plug and plug it into the camshaft position sensor that everything is happy.