trreed

Yes, the pictures were fantastic. Most shops manually cut o-rings I believe. For the exhaust housing portion, the tighter the exhaust housing, the quicker the turbo spools, which means the torque comes in early in the power band, and torque is what breaks things. Low RPM, lots of timing, and a tight exhaust housing make for a sh*tload of cylinder pressure, and that makes head gaskets blow. Conversely, the larger the exhaust housing, the later the torque comes in. I'm assuming the guys who wrote this article saw studs that were improperly torqued or were just pulling **** out of their asses.

Head gasket failure is not guaranteed above 40 psi like the article claims. I know plenty of compound trucks (mine included) that are not o-ringed that make 70-75 pounds of boost with no head gasket issues. It's all about timing and exhaust housing size. The information about physically o-ringing the head is fantastic, but the information leading up to the good part of the article is wrong.

Now everyone is going to tell you how mudflaps are supposed to go right behind the wheels.

I replaced my ring and pinion due to a tiny chip in the ring gear (from shredded spider gears). A whole tooth missing like that is asking for trouble down the road, since helical gears distribute the load across three or so teeth, eventually the two surrounding teeth will give out too. A Spicer ring and pinion is $198 from rock auto.

Lol injector wiring on a VP truck huh? Email is written like a scam. But many members seem to have had good experiences with them.

Mechanical pump is usually good about keeping pressure up around 22-24 psi. Last WOT run I did, a buddy was watching my gauges and he said I had 12 psi of fuel pressure. Which was news to me. But not enough to alarm me for the little amount of time it was that low.

I don't watch any of my gauges during a WOT run. If I do, I'm watching boost cause I'm still setting my boot controller. Sometimes I'll look back, see that EGT's got to 1550 or so and not think anything of it.

Quadzilla does not have code reading abilities. It can monitor certain functions, refreshing about 4 times per second, and the data log feature will hold about 4 hours worth of data.

Obviously I need all I can get! Especially if I start collecting parts for that other project I mentioned the other day.

Also it's my negligence for not checking what seal they sent and being prepared. It's only money.....

Ha. No. Got sent the wrong pinion seal, considered leaving the pinion seal and front bearing alone until I found rusty oil on the bearing from where water had been seeping in. All the parts stores only stock the seal for the flanged yoke, so I gotta go to the dealer for this seal

The mark on the gear marks when #1 piston is at TDC. The keyway is a number of degrees off of that mark.

Wow, this makes me never want to order a new vehicle. I thought going to MN for my Passat with the options I wanted was extreme.

Today. Hopefully. It's been just about a month

I would be fairly conservative with the light throttle advance, since you don't have studs. I know you're not going to be going 100% duration with lots of timing under 2k rpm, but still better to be safe and deal with slightly lower timing.

Mine will fuel to 3500 rpm, and will actually blow through my limit of 3300 rpm. Quad will allow fueling to 3700, but only if the VP is willing to do it.

Just in case anyone was wondering about the size of the Dana 80 carrier. Is large

you have VCO. Here is a side-by-side of VCO (left) to SAC (right)

@Quadzilla Power @Quadzilla_Stephen I have a buddy with a 7.3 interested in the re-release of the Arachnid. Problem is, he's seen my V2 tuning capabilities. He is curious if there is the possibility to create a similar environment to the V2 where he can adjust his own tunes. Not knowing how the PCM communicates with the Arachnid, Hydra, TS chip, etc, is there a possibility of something similar to V2? My guess is he will be stuck with custom tunes that are emailed to him.

That's what they do for cruising to save fuel. Some of the new Chevy 5.3L motors can run on one cylinder when cruising.

Most are switching to a 48V alternator/starter combo, similar to gas golf carts. Audi calls it a BAS (belt alternator starter)

Thought about it.... But then again the stealth cover is probably one of the easiest installations I've done (not looking forward to setting pinion depth for my rear end tonight)

Auto start/stop. Usually in FCA vehicles you can't turn it off.

Stealth cover is your best bet. Secure connection. Just don't screw it too far into the PSG.

Vulcan manufactures their own fuel line?