Sycostang67

I did find one loose ground wire that was covered in crud, cleaned and tightened to no avail. I need to pull my big turbo off to get it resealed and remove my inter cooler and piping to clean them out so I may as well start that and get a better look at the rest of the harness while I’m at it.

They listed a ton of possible causes for failure to check. Basically every sensor on the truck, damage to the harness, TSB’s, faulty grounds, etc. The truck ran perfectly and has for the last ten years when I pulled into the garage so I had no clue what to even look at. I did check some of the harness and found one tiny hole in a wire possibly from a probe, it wasn’t close to touching anything but I wrapped it up anyway. If I have time this weekend I plan to go through the whole thing and check all the grounds and fuses.

Here is the email. SERVICE SUMMARY 📋 What You Reported The ECU was received with the following issue(s): Upon turning ignition on, wait to start light flashes and the truck will only crank, but not fire up. I also get no power to the fuel pump when bumping the key What We Found After functional and bench testing, we confirmed the following issues: ECM Faults No Communication to Lift Pump, Shorted Circuits (Lift Pump & APP Circuit)’ Cold Solder Joints on CPU, No 5V Reference for Sensors, No 9.5V Reference for Lift Pump and Bad "Wait to Start" Light These faults matched the reported concerns and DTCs provided. Further internal analysis confirmed abnormal behavior and internal component failure. Repairs Performed The following work was completed: ECM Repairs Replaced Lift Pump Circuit Restoring proper fuel pump communication. ⚡ Resoldered CPU and Flash Chip Eliminating weak connections for stability. 🔧 Resoldered 50 Pins Ensuring strong, reliable electrical connections. 🛠️ Replaced APP Circuit (Shares Ground Circuit with: MAP Sensor, Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor, Camshaft Position Sensor, Water in Fuel Sensor, Engine Coolant Temp Sensor, Intake Air Temp Sensor, and Engine Oil Pressure Sensor) ⚠️ Any of these could have caused the short!) Replaced 5V Driver and Replaced 9.5V Driver Restoring functionality. ⚙️ Replaced "Wait to Start" Light Circuit 🚦 Updated Software Bringing ECM up to the latest specs. 🔄💻 Post-repair testing shows full communication and functional success. ✅ Your ECU is now ready for use — once root causes are resolved.

They sent me a lengthy email explaining everything they did and how all the issues I had were reflected in the condition of my ecm. I even undid everything I did the day it died before installing it just in case. Right now I need to borrow a truck to move some stuff around to make room for the ram in the backyard before my hoa notices it hasn’t moved in over 6 weeks.

Finally got my ECM back and installed and truck does the same thing as before. 😡. In all the google searches I’ve done, haven’t found any evidence of this issue ever being resolved.

Still sitting on my thumbs with the truck. Not totally impressed with ACS, they’ve had my ecm at a work station for 2 weeks with no updates. I finally shot them an email today and was told it should ship out today. I’m going to assume that since I didn’t get an email with a tracking number that it wasn’t shipped. Even if it ships Monday, with the holiday next week I doubt I’ll see it for another week or two. Quadzilla has my tuner, or at least I assume they do. I shipped that to them a week and a half ago and haven’t heard anything from them. I sent them an email 2 days ago and haven’t gotten a response. My truck has been sitting for about a month now and I really have some stuff to do that I can’t do with a mustang.

Pulled the computer and realized I forgot to get the mileage from the dash. Would it be safe to hook the batteries back up and to get the mileage without the computer installed?

Ok, I found the ACS website and should get the ecm pulled today and hopefully in the mail tomorrow.

The ECM is the computer bolted to the driver side of the block, correct?

I went out and completely disconnected the Quad, and did the apps reset. Truck is back to flashing WTS light even with no Quad and still does the crank no fire. I feel as though I’m looking at an ECM rebuild? I did check the little bit of live data I get with my scanner and it showed TPS at 93% while not running obviously.

Pulled the truck into the garage to replace some lights. When I tried to start it the WTS light was flashing and the truck would only crank and not fire. I tried pulling codes and got nothing. I disconnected the batteries for a few minutes and nothing changed. I unplugged the Quadzilla and the WTS light functioned as normal. The truck started right up but instantly idled at 1200rpm and then went into 3cyl idle mode. I checked my idle control switch and it’s in the off position. My throttle is also unresponsive(Timbo). Thanks to my low stall converter I was able to get the truck out of the garage and back into its parking spot. When I parked it the idle dropped to 900rpm and still no response from pedal. I assume I need to do an apps reset due to disconnecting the batteries. Could the quad really be the cause of all this? I plan on doing the reset tomorrow and completely unplug the quad just to see if it runs stock.

Are the tires just being spin balanced? I had a similar random vibration that turned out to be a rear tire. I took the tire in and they did a road force balance that involves putting pressure on the tire. I’ve been vibration free ever since.

I’ve been running a pretty similar setup for about 2 years now, S357/S475. I have studs and my transmission was built to handle 650hp, I opted for the billet input. Also have a billet single disc low stall converter. The Quadzilla never lets my boost get too high on my daily and tow tunes, usually keeps it under 30psi. Honestly I don’t like letting it get any higher than 40 which my party tune would do if I got crazy. My main concern is my original head gasket with 265k miles, even with the studs. I usually drive like an old lady anyhow. I would think as long as you aren’t beating on it that it would hold together ok.

I’m running a moog track bar, beefier than the OEM unit. I was told it had a tiny bit of play but wasn’t in need of replacing yet. I swapped it anyway while I was tearing everything else apart last weekend. Lifetime warranty ftw.

I had scheduled an alignment the week prior. I get one done anytime I mess with steering parts or anything that could affect the alignment. The shop I prefer is about 20 miles away so I mainly didn’t want the truck to behave poorly during that time. I took slower back roads as well, just in case. No issues though, got it aligned this morning. Truck is quieter now and takes most bumps a lot smoother. Just pulling into my driveway is so much better than before.

I’ve had to do that before but my control arms are so far out of adjustment now that I’ll let the shop handle it. I had planned to reinstall the adjusters in the same position I removed them from as I marked them beforehand. After the sawzall, torch and grinder, the marks were lost. Rotating the alignment bolts also made getting the upper arms back in easier as well.

I got a set of OEM style control arms from TRQ. My truck still drove fine, but I could hear something knocking around under the front when driving. I couldn’t feel anything loose though. I figured the bushings were all 24 years old with 263k miles so they were probably due, same as the sway bar bushings. I was told my track bar had a tiny bit of play and I knew my damper was leaking but I had replaced those parts before and used the lifetime warranty to get new ones. It goes in for an alignment on Tuesday, I got the cams out of whack from having to cut the one bolt. The truck still drives straight but my steering is crooked.

No worries, I totally understood where you were coming from. I’ve come across plenty of posts like that where someone was trying to sort a problem like mine and there was no resolution. We got everything done today, did have to sawzall one of my alignment bolts out due to it seizing in the bushing. Thankfully they are stocked at most parts stores. As for my grid heater, found power to the relays but not the heater. I swapped in the new relays and I think it’s working now. I am once again seeing the random voltage drop on the battery gauge after starting the truck. I can also hear the relays clicking in accordance with the voltage drop.

Haven’t gotten to it just yet, the truck still starts which hasn’t helped to light a fire under my butt yet, lol. I am planning on working on it today though. Got some friends coming over and we are replacing the control arms, track bar, steering damper and the sway bar bushings/end links. I figured I’d pull the intake tube and check the relays while I’m at it.

Not yet, but I will when I get the tube removed. Thanks for the diagram, I was also wondering where the fusible links were so that’s quite helpful.

I checked the connections on the heater and everything is tight. I did pick up some new relays as they weren’t terribly expensive. Took me a minute to find the ones on the truck. I’ve had this thing almost 10 years and never noticed them before. I’m gonna have to remove my intake tube to swap them out though. My dark horse boots are a huge pain to remove and install, more so when they are cold. I’ll wait for a nicer day and then drive a bit to warm things up and hopefully not have to cuss at the truck too much.

It’s a two wire hook up, grounded it on the floor by the seat and ran the power wire to my extra fuse block under the hood. I wanted to hook it to a switched power source so I could leave it on and it would warm up when I used my remote start. I need to clean up my under dash wiring though, got some fuse taps and such and don’t even remember what they are for. It’s on my expanding list of things to do to my truck next year.

My new Mustang has spoiled me with its heated seats but unfortunately I can’t drive it in the snow. I found this universal seat heater at work and decided to give it a try. It was pretty easy to install as the factory covers kind of snap on. I didn’t even remove the top cover, just opened the bottom and had enough room to slide it up inside. There was plenty of space on the switch panel for the new switch as well. It works great, I put it on high and it heats up quickly. I usually drop it down to low after a bit though. It costs about $70 and took less than an hour to install.

It didn’t so much as stall as I let go of the key as soon as I heard the first sound of combustion and it wasn’t ready to go out on its own yet. It started the first try today as I made sure to hold the key a little longer until it was practically running. There was no voltage drop though, initially or even after it was running as I know the heater continues to cycle until certain parameters are met.

No, I was standing outside the truck reaching in to start it so I didn’t see the gauge. I’ll check it out tomorrow.