Sycostang67

That's what mine was doing, I would start the truck and no air movement. It would suddenly come on a mile or minute down the road. It would work on all speeds, but sometimes changing the speed would cause it to stop working. New resistor and motor and no problems since.

It will happen even if the rotor is stone cold though. I live on the corner, I back out of the driveway, pull forward 20' to the stop sign and it's already knocking. I was thinking of having the rotor turned to make sure it's flat and I can look for cracks as well.

I wouldn't want him to send me another kit, I'd rather find the defective part and have him send me a new one of those. Since it's a group of people who have recently purchased this kit, I'm wondering if something from the supplier is messed up. Hoping we can get this figured out before anyone else has to go through it.

I have, he's trying to help as well. It's just that he's sold hundred of these kits with no issues but suddenly 5-6 people are just now having problems. We are all trying some different things to see if we can fix it or find the cause.

Well I just ruled out the wheel weight, I only have one and it doesn't come anywhere near touching the caliper. I guess I will take the rotor in and have it turned just in case. If that doesn't work then I guess I will have to blow an extra $200 on some flat rotors.

I figured I would throw this problem at some fresh eyes. I have a 1967 mustang, I recently did a front disc brake conversion on it with slotted rotors and 4 piston calipers. On the first test drive, there was a knocking sound right away when applying the brakes. Upon investigation I had misread the directions and put the rotors on the wrong sides. Swapping them made the sound go away instantly, however it came back a few days later. This time I swapped the pads around and once again the sound was gone but came back a few days later. I have isolated the sound to the passenger side, at which point I swapped the pads on that side, inner vs outer. The noise went away and came back after a few days. This time I removed the pads, beveled the edges and swapped them again. The same thing happened, no sound then it came back. I have a 4 page thread going on my mustang forum, apparently a few other people are having this problem as well. I even have the gentleman who sold the kits trying to help out as he said he's never had this complaint until recently. The sound can be felt through the pedal and is loud enough to echo off buildings. It's only present when applying the brakes and the frequency will slow down with vehicle speed. I've included a video of it happening. Any ideas you guys might have would be appreciated.

I meant the shaft bluing was most likely from the lack of cool down. The housing cracks were most likely from my heavy foot. I have hit 1350 a couple times with my comp box, hence the reason I got the CTS to warn me before I do that again. I have it set to alarm at 1150 so I know to back off the throttle. I got my turn buckle back on today and was able to keep it on this time. Even though it's the same model turbo, it works much better than the old one, spools quicker and I don't have to push near as hard to hit 30psi.

I got the turbo back on tonight, made sure to pre-lube the heck out of it. Then I let it idle for 15 minutes and took it for a spin. It worked great on the first pull, then my turn buckle fell off, lol. I hopped on my bicycle and went looking for it. I did find it so I'll have to put it on tomorrow when the motor is cool again. I forgot to get my 2 mounting studs from my old housing so they gave it to me to remove them, here are the pics of the cracks. The shaft was a nice shade a dark blue around the middle, presumably from not letting the turbo cool before shut down. It's something I have been doing the last few months after I heard about it and will continue to do with the new turbo.

The cracks, there were 2, were both going into the waste gate opening, one of them was quite large. Due to a mistake made by their supplier, I got a brand new turbo. They said they were checking the price of a new turbo vs exhaust housing and decided to order the housing but were sent a complete turbo instead. They let me have the new turbo for the cost of the rebuild. At least I have a warranty and they said putting my turn buckle back on the waste gate wouldn't void it.

Yeah, mine was doing the same thing, new motor and resistor and no problems since.

Would the crack be partially responsible for my lack of boost lately? After I did the turnbuckle on the waste gate I could get 30-33 psi, but lately I'd been having trouble getting higher than 26psi.

My luck just keeps getting better, apparently there was a crack in my exhaust housing. There's more money I don't have. I probably could have gotten a better turbo by now.

Daily driver?

Those are nice, would be really handy working on my car.

I went to remove my filter to look at doing the lockup switch the other day. I noticed an oily mess on the firewall and around the A/C components. At first I thought my A/C was leaking though it still works great. I checked the turbo and noticed a fair amount of shaft play and the blades are turning black and sticky. It also appears oil is seeping out the back side of the housing as well which is where I think the mess came from. I was really hoping to do something different with the turbo when this happened but unfortunately I am strapped for cash as I can barely afford the rebuild. I dropped the turbo off at Master Tech in Boise as they came highly recommended and we also do a lot of business with them through my other job. Hopefully I'll have it back Monday or Tuesday. At least the weather is nice for the next week and I can enjoy driving my mustang for a bit.

That's not a bad idea.

It turns out my BIL still had a weather proof solar charger he used to keep his old tractor battery charged. He sold the tractor so I put the charger on the trailer for now. It's parked in an open field, so sunlight all day long. The plug hangs just outside the battery box so we can unplug it and go. If he want's it wired into the trailer, I figure he can do it since he is much more experienced in the electrical aspect than I am. I finished installing the winch, tool box and battery box, everything should be good to go next time we need it. I like this trailer more than mine, it's much lighter. Mine was about 3500lbs empty, I think this one is about 2k, can hardly tell it's there when empty.

I'm getting rid of my flatbed and installing my winch and tool box on my brother in laws brand new trailer. This new trailer has a break away battery system for the brakes and according to the description, charges through the trailer plug. I had the winch battery setup to charge through the plug on my old trailer but it was the only battery. Can I just tap into the new trailer harness and run a charge wire to the winch battery so both get charged? I have a feeling it won't be that simple, but that's why I'm here. I'll verify the break away is charged by the tow vehicle as I know not all do. Would it perhaps just be easier to get a small solar charger for the winch battery to keep it maintained?

I didn't think to check with a mirror, but where I live, that kind of nature isn't around to get into my system. I'll definitely check when I do the entire dash though. Swapping the parts was really easy, took me about an hour but that involved swapping the cage and plug and cleaning the built up dirt off the cage as well. Having that fan going full blast was really appreciated during my camping trip when outside temps were over 100*. Before the truck would get cool but I would still sweat pretty good. Now I actually have to turn the A/C down after a bit.

Yeah, just had a sliver or 2 of ceramic come off while I was removing it. The box was pretty clean too, only had one pine needle in the cage.

Sure, no problem. I imagine this is original as I think the fan was as well, 17 years and 226k miles.

Got a new fan and resistor switch installed today and everything is working great right now. I went through all the switch settings and it never shut off like before. The old motor was fairly difficult to spin, I'm surprised I got any strong air from it at all. All the exposed metal on the old resistor was nice and green as well. Now I shouldn't fry in the 100+ temps we'll be getting this week.

What about the switch? Today I was checking the various speeds on the switch and when I got to low, the fan stopped and I couldn't get it going again. It started back up on it's own about a minute later. Could that still be the resistor? I am getting ready to sell my flatbed, planned to use some of the proceeds for a new dash core, top, bezel, and heater core/fan. I guess I will add the resistor to the list. Hopefully it can hold out another month. EDIT: I just realized those 2 parts can be replaced without dash removal, lol. I guess I'll grab them in a day or two. Still, do you think the switch could have anything to do with it or is it most likely just the other 2 things?

Lately I've noticed my fan works really good sometimes and then other times it just doesn't feel like giving 100%. Sometimes I can feel the air on my face sitting back in my seat and other times I have to be right next to the steering wheel to feel it. It usually changes after the truck has been stopped and then re-started. I've never noticed it to change while driving. Is there anything I can check or am I too assume the fan will be exiting stage left eventually?

As a kid my family spent a summer cruising the country in an Astro van pulling a 25' camper. Dad took the van to get some supplies and left us sitting in the camper. A wind storm came in and pushed that camper up on 2 wheels, scared the hell out of all of us.