Tractorman

I experienced launch shudder problems when towing during two different time periods in the life of my '02 truck - approximately 340,000 miles. Both times I removed the driveshaft and thoroughly cleaned the slip yoke splines and then applied new grease. Both times it eliminated the launch shudder. This is a procedure that never seems to get mentioned when diagnosing launch shudder problems. Axle wrap happens when getting heavy loads moving and the slip yoke needs to accommodate the axial movement of the driveshaft during those high torque conditions. - John

@Alexio Auditore, thank you for details and photos on the axle seal replacement. My right axle seal has been leaking for about a year and you may have inspired me to replace it, now that I know what work is involved. - John

340,000 on original alternator and no issues, BUT very early in its life that very bolt was loose. I tightened it and it never loosened again. That bolt has to be tightened to the point of distorting the ears on the mounting bracket enough to actually make them clamp onto the mounting ear on the alternator. I think that is why some fail and some don't. @Dieselfuture is correct... you had better eat your Wheaties first. - John

Personally, I would not be that concerned about the broken ear on the alternator. There is still plenty of material left on the ear to allow for a good clamp. The reason the mounting ear failed is because the clamping fastener had lost its tension a long time ago. Once the tension was lost, the fastener beat against the mounting ear relentlessly at the frequency of the running Cummins engine. As long as there are no cracks in the remaining part of the ear mount, I would re-use the alternator. Just check periodically that the fastener remains tight. - John

You didn't say whether or not you disconnected the batteries for the time period your truck wasn't being used, so I am assuming that you did not. If you did not disconnect the batteries, then they could have completely discharged just from the parasitic draws from the many control modules that go into sleep mode after the engine is shut down. This would include your security system, as well. I seriously doubt that your grid heaters malfunctioned and discharged your batteries. If that happened, lack of air flow through the air intake heaters (grid heaters) would have allowed for serious heat to build up at the intake heater location which would have blistered paint, and you would probably see melted plastic on the nearby control solenoids. You are probably seeing heat buildup at the grid heater location now because your engine is not starting, so there is very little air flow to carry away the heat. - John

I understand about needing slack to avoid binding in the over center position. I was just curious as to how you arrived at the 1.5 turns out. Did you get that information from a service manual? Did you experiment and come up with a specific value on your own? I have always had a very small amount of slack in the steering wheel - about 1/2" of travel on the outer circumference of the steering wheel. It is unnoticeable while driving and the truck steers well. I have always used the 1/4 turn at a time technique to reach the final adjustment setting. Yesterday, I used your procedure to make a steering gear box adjustment. The steering wheel play did not change, but there was a small, but definite improvement on straight line steering and steering wheel return. I think I may have had the adjustment just a touch too tight previously. My testing consisted of local driving in Baker City and 28 mile round trips to my property and a 250 mile round trip to Nampa, Idaho today. Today's test was a good test as winds were 20 to 30 mph all day - head winds, cross winds, and tail winds. The truck was easy to steer under all conditions. @dripley, I will be curious to hear your results if you should decide to try it. - John

Your most accurate and fastest way to find the coolant leak is to get a pressure tester as @Royal Squire has already mentioned. Do the test on a cold engine. As far as engine oil leaks, I wouldn't start replacing anything right away. It is very easy to start replacing things that don't need to be replaced because the source of oil leak or leaks can be difficult to find. I would use lots of brake cleaner and spend some time thoroughly cleaning any oily areas - then start watching for the source of the oil leak, and there are many sources.. Two common oil leak sources are the crankcase vent and the seal on the vacuum pump. Both leaks can get very messy with the assistance of the engine fan. Some other sources are the oil feed hose to the vacuum pump, oil pressure sending unit, tappet cover gasket, valve cover gasket, head gasket, turbo oil feed hose, timing gear case gasket, oil pan gasket, etc. - John

I think I understand what you are saying about lifting the pitman arm / drag link and turning the screw the other way. How did you arrive at 1.5 turns in the other direction? How do you know that this final 1.5 turns is the exact position for adjustment? There steering gearbox on my truck has 3 1/2 turns of the steering wheel from stop to stop. Does this make a difference? Just want to be sure I fully understand this before I try it. - John

Can you elaborate a little more on this procedure, especially the "You'll have to lift the output shaft a bit so you can get the slack you need." I have never made the adjustment this way. I may try the procedure, but I would like to fully understand it before I try it. Thanks. - John

That was a good choice. I am sure that the Permatex is doing the sealing, not the gasket. - John

I used a gasket between the vacuum pump and timing cover case and it leaked as well. I removed the gasket and used RTV sealant only. No leaks and that was a few years ago. My thought is that having only a 2-bolt flange mount over such a large diameter hole doesn't provide the rigidity needed to ensure a good seal. I think the gasket compresses at the ears of he mounting flange, but not so much around rest of the flange. - John

I would think that this could very likely be the cause. If one side of the axle was bent upward, then it would show up as negative camber on both sides. - John

@smelonas, I didn't see anywhere in your post with information regarding year of your truck. Your signature shows 2007, but you mention VP44 in your post, so I assume your truck is a '98.5-'02 second generation. If your truck is a second generation with a VP44 injection pump, then your fuel pressure is normal for an OEM in-tank lift pump. With a stock engine, you will not harm the fuel pump. There is an internal vane pump inside the VP44 that supplies fuel flow to internal controls and to the 14 psi overflow valve. Just as long as you always have a positive VP44 inlet pressure, the VP44 will be adequately cooled. You need to talk to Grandpa again. I don't think the fuel is being shut off. I think he is experiencing the "dead pedal" symptom in which the engine goes directly to idle. It will feel like the engine died because all fueling stops except for idle. The dead pedal will usually last for about 5 to 20 seconds and then clear up on its own. If the engine truly does die, then the tachometer will go to zero. Not all VP44 trucks will read engine codes using the ignition key. I would try to get access to a quality code reader and check for codes again. A failing APPS will likely trigger a "dead pedal", but other things can cause this also. A failing APPS could also be related the TCC hunting, as well. - John

I assume that you are talking about a switch that manually controls torque converter clutch lockup. I don't have a video, but I think I can provide more information about how I used the switch than a video could provide. Coincidentally, my truck that had the mystery switch was also a '99 (with a stock automatic transmission and a stock fueled engine). My installation was simple - one relay and one momentary floor switch operated by my left foot. The floor switch was a durable, low profile switch that required very little pressure to operate, just the weight of my foot. A couple of helpful things to know: 1. A stock automatic transmission will only lock the converter in 3rd and 4th gear (overdrive). 2. A stock automatic transmission unlocks the converter during a shift and then relocks the converter after the shift. 3. The mystery switch does not lock up the converter. The mystery switch allows you to keep the converter locked up after the converter locks up on its own. This is important to know, otherwise you won't be able to maximize the benefits of the mystery switch. Behavior of the of torque converter lockup with mystery switch operation: 1. Fourth gear (overdrive), converter lockup, foot on mystery switch - converter will remain locked and transmission will stay in fourth gear (will not downshift) regardless of throttle position. When mystery switch is released, the transmission operation will return back to automatic mode. 2. Third gear (overdrive), converter lockup, foot on mystery switch - converter will remain locked and transmission will stay in third gear (will not downshift or upshift) regardless of throttle position. When mystery switch is released, the transmission operation will return back to automatic mode. Driving the truck using the mystery switch: Getting up to speed quickly from a stop - lock out overdrive (4th gear). Accelerate moderately until transmission shifts into third gear. Back off the throttle and let the converter lock up. As soon as the converter locks up, depress and hold the mystery switch and step into the throttle and continue to accelerate moderately. Pre select overdrive (the transmission will not shift). Continue accelerating to about 50 mph (this will be your shift point). Back off the throttle, release the mystery switch. You will feel the converter unlock, the transmission shift into fourth gear, and the converter relock. As soon as the converter relocks, depress and hold the mystery switch and accelerate moderately until you get to your desired speed. You can now release the mystery switch since the converter will stay locked on its own. With a little practice you will find the truck will accelerate quickly and shift smoothly. Slowing for 45 mph curve – Depress and hold mystery switch and back off the throttle. The transmission will remain in overdrive (fourth gear) and the converter will remain locked (even if the brake is applied). Upon exiting the curve you can accelerate as hard as you wish. Once getting back up to speed, you can release the mystery switch. Approaching a steep uphill grade (downshifting to third gear) – Depress and hold the mystery switch. Stay in the throttle as you approach the grade and preselect 3rd gear (lockout overdrive). The transmission will not shift. When you are ready to make the downshift, let the truck slow to about 50 mph. Ease off the throttle and release the mystery switch. The converter will unlock and the transmission will downshift into 3rd gear. As soon as the converter relocks, depress and hold the mystery switch and use the throttle to maintain your speed. Again, a little practice and the shift will be smooth. Downgrades – 3rd or 4th gear – Select whichever gear for the downgrade. After the converter has locked, depress and hold the mystery switch for the duration of the downgrade. Brakes can be applied to help maintain speed. Once these techniques have been practiced for awhile, the mystery switch operation will become second nature and you will be using the switch without thinking about it. Hope this is what you are looking for. - John

Bicycles beat me of the line until I pick up a couple of gears. - John

You didn't say how many miles are on the truck. Is the APPS currently on the truck an OEM part? If it is the original part or a replacement OEM part with lots of miles, I would consider just replacing it with a Timbo unit. It may not resolve your problem, but it wouldn't be a waste of money. - John

The above test would be a good test, but before I did that test I would turn the key to the "run" position and rotate the temperature control knob and carefully listen with my ear close to the blend door actuator motor. If I could hear the motor operate (or try to operate), then I would think the problem would be a mechanical one downstream of the motor. If I couldn't hear the motor operate (or try to operate), then I would follow up with @Haggar's advice. I definitely want to know your fix because my Heater Treater part has been in use for 5 years now. - John

That is a good test. When you turn the key into the "run" position, the lift pump will run for about 1/2 second. When you bump the starter, the lift pump will run for about 20 seconds. Make sure the key is in the "off" position (key can be removed position) before you start the test or you may get erroneous results. If you are not hearing the lift pump run, the, check the condition of the fuse. If it is blown, the pump may be faulty and drawing an excessive amount current. If you are going to keep this truck, and it sounds like you are, then you should invest in a factory service repair manual for your year and model of truck. This manual will show the locations of all electrical grounds for inspection. Or, you could become a member of this site and use the site's available resources, such as wiring diagrams. - John

@Zekeworst, even though the 0216 code is a timing failure code within the VP44 injection pump, I wouldn't replace it just yet. I would inspect / clean all battery connections and ground locations. I would also investigate the APPS voltage to ensure that you are within the correct voltage range. Then, I would clear the codes, drive the truck and see what happens. - John

If the engine still runs smoothly, but is just having a fixed power loss, then the engine likely has de-rated itself because there is a problem that may harm the engine if used at full power. Likely, a DTC has been set, but as @dripley has advised, you will need to get access to a good code reader. This will be a good place to start with your diagnosis. - John

If the two wheel drive front bearing in this application does not use a sealed bearing cartridge (unit bearing), then this procedure does sound right. If the hub uses an inner and outer tapered roller bearing that are not sealed then tightening to 20 ft/lbs seats the bearing races, backing off 1/4 turn gives free play, and finally hand tightening sets the preload. There should also be a locking device to stop the nut from turning. If the two wheel drive front bearing uses a unit bearing, then the 280 ft/lbs procedure would be applicable. - John

@pepsi71ocean, I agree with the above statement. Another possible solution with other benefits is to wire the grid heaters with a manual momentary switch. You get to make the decision as to how long the grid heaters stay on with your first engine start of the day. No more post cycling after engine is started, so the alternator immediately goes to work replenishing the batteries. This would significantly reduce the electrical load on the alternator during your day with many engine startups. I have used this mod since my truck was new. I am still running the original Bosch alternator. It has received one bearing kit and two brush sets during its life. Also, I went down in battery size to a Group 24 about two years ago. So far, no adverse effects. - John

I had a fuel gauge strapped to a my windshield wiper for a week and about 250 miles. Fortunately, it didn't rain. - John

Just curious, have you tried getting the air bag code cleared at the dealer? I don't know how it is with Dodge, but some auto manufacturers will allow ABS and Airbag codes to be read, but not cleared by after market diagnostic tools. Maybe someone else knows that answer. - John

Awesome! I only have 162,000 miles to get to get to 500,000. @dripley, I think you're about 9 miles past warranty getting that air bag light fixed. I am I the process of building a house and a shop this summer - just moved to Baker City, Oregon in January. So I am hoping no head gaskets or VP44 before then, otherwise I will have to borrow your roof that you used when you did your head gasket - that is, if your chickens don't mind. - John