Tractorman

I believe the OEM setup for Quads (Sport Headlights) is as follows: Outer lamps - 9007 low beam and high beam Inner lamps - 9004 high beam only Please correct me if I am wrong. - John

@sam, if you can get your hands on a radiator pressure tester, you would likely find which is leaking. I would pump up the tester to 15 psi with a cold engine. Personally, I would not use Bars Leak or any other sealant. I did once because I had a leaking heater core and I thought it would be a good fix. Although it worked for a couple of years, it took a few more years to clean up the coolant, even with many coolant changes. I finally added a coolant filter in the to the cooling system which made the coolant very clean again. - John

Interesting about your new transmission mount. I still have the original engine mounts and transmission mount, but a few months ago I replaced the transmission mount with a Napa brand. The first thing I noticed was the frequency of an idling engine was transferred into the frame, which in turn was transferred to the running boards via the running board braces. I could feel / hear the frequency at other engine rpm's as well. Since the original transmission mount was still in good condition, I re-installed it and everything is back to normal and quiet. I will be very interested to hear about the performance of the your new engine mounts. - John

@joeld779, I hope your problem is fixed when you get everything resealed behind the head. I'm sorry, but I don't know the part numbers. Some time ago I recall someone mentioning on one of these forums that he had similar symptoms and it turned out to be the input shaft seal on the VP44. After awhile I think he figured out that fuel was leaking into the engine oil as well. I hope this is not your problem. - John

We think you need to be honest here - we are pretty sure that you used that hose as a handle to lift the head from the block during your head gasket replacement. I know, it only lifted the head out once.... - John

If something broke off of the end of the filter minder, then it might be safer to have the filter minder located at the end of the air filter as it would have less of a chance for a piece to be drawn into the intake tube. Also, you will probably have a noticeable pressure drop with the filter minder located in the tube as opposed to being located at the end of the air filter. As the air flow accelerates in the tube, the pressure will fall, even with a clean air filter. My '02 Dodge has a 3" pipe connected to the BHAF with an in-cab mounted analog air filter restriction gauge sensing from the 3" pipe connection at the air filter. I see 10" of water at 2200 rpm and 27 psi boost with a new air filter (When the gauge was located at the end of the filter housing, the needle barely moved.) If and when I see 20" of water under the same conditions, I will replace the air filter. - John

Well, no wonder you blew the intake manifold gasket!! - John

Just for clarification, does this mean you are cracking open high pressure injector lines to get the engine to start? I don't know that pinching off lines is a reliable test since you can't actually see if the line is completely closed off. Did you use a soapy solution to check for the leaks? I know that you are trying to resolve this, but many times fuel lines will leak air in, but not fuel out. The fittings on the back of the head probably need to be taken apart and properly resealed. I personally have never had trouble at that location, but many owners have. Your symptoms do match fuel draining back to the tank, especially the nose parked up hill part. - John

3 VP44 failures: #1 - 87,000 miles P0216 code, fuel pressure 12 psi at idle and 7 psi at WOT at 2500 rpm during many test drives before replacement. Dealer replaced VP44 and installed in-tank lift pump under warranty. New lift pump fuel pressure 6 psi at idle and 3 psi at WOT at 2500 rpm during test drive. 215,000 miles - retest lift pump pressures - still reading the same under the same test conditions. 249,000 miles - install Smarty S03 251,000 miles - remove in-tank lift pump and install used frame mounted FASS DRP-02 lift pump - 12 psi at idle and 6 psi at at WOT at 2000 rpm during test drive. I performed this work because I wanted an easy roadside repair in case of lift pump failure. 303,000 miles - install RV275 injectors 325,000 miles - currently still running 2nd VP44 injection pump and same used FASS DRP-02 frame mounted lift pump. I do expect to have a VP44 injection pump failure sometime in the near future as the VP44 now has logged 228,000 miles. Who knows, maybe it will last much longer. Probably, the mandated 5% bio-diesel in Oregon has helped with the pump's longevity. I have never had a lift pump failure. - John

Set your waste gate to 10 psi and then you won't have worry about pushing out the gasket again. Plus, you will have less wear and tear on your truck and you would never have to worry about towing in sixth gear. Ok, seriously now, could you hear the boost leak when you were under load? Or, did the truck just seem under powered? - John

From the FSM.... P0216 (M) Fuel Injection Pump Timing Failure High fuel supply restriction, low fuel pressure P0382 (M) Intake Air Heater Relay #2 Control Circuit Problem detected in #2 air heater solenoid/relay circuit (not heater element) @Twistr71, have you tried to clear the codes? You should verify lift pump fuel pressure at the inlet port of the VP44. You should have at least 6 psi at idle if it is a factory retrofit in-tank lift pump. This pressure is adequate to charge the inlet of the VP44. Some will say that you must have at least 14 psi under all operating conditions, but I do not agree. There is a gear pump inside the VP44 that pushes fuel over the 14 psi overflow valve under all operating conditions. Hopefully, the P2016 code was caused by the fuel restriction and no damage has occurred to the VP44. It is possible that the timing piston has be damaged. - John

Personally, I don't think so. In the past I have just used the exhaust brake at regular idle and the engine warms quickly. And, it is certainly much quieter. - John

Leave it to Smarty to keep everything a secret. Mine didn't ramp up to 3 cylinder high idle until 2 or 3 minutes after the engine was started. I am going to try to figure out a way to fool the software into eliminating the 3 cylinder high idle. I did notice that once I depressed the clutch pedal or touched the throttle, the feature was immediately disabled. - John

I would be happy to have no high idle, but a six cylinder high idle would be acceptable. Can either modification be done and how would you do it?

Thanks to this forum, I have heard about the thee cylinder high for very cold days. However, I have never experienced this occurrence until last week during an overnight low of 20 degrees at my property near Baker City, OR. I fired up the truck, turned on the exhaust brake, and went inside. A couple of minutes later I heard the engine slowly increase in RPM. Then all of a sudden it started making such a wild clatter that I thought I was going to have to shoot it and put it out of its misery. After thinking about this for a couple of minutes, I realized that this must be the three cylinder high idle feature. I touched the throttle and the engine went back to a normal idle. I had to do it again a few minutes later. I have had the Smarty S03 programmer on the truck for about three years, so I'm guessing that it has the high idle feature included. I actually do not want this feature. Is there a simple way to disable the three cylinder high idle? Thanks in advance for any help. - John

Check all of your battery connections - especially on the driver's side. With that many codes, you may have a loose wire or a ground problem - again, inspect wiring near the area where you were working when you repaired the fuel leak. Coincidences happen, but are rare. Many times I have repaired something and then found that I unwittingly created another problem. - John

I would be looking a problem either related to the work you just did or triggered by the work you just did. I say this because you said the truck was running fine before you performed the work. An example could be that maybe the lift pump has not been operational for awhile (and you didn't know that before you opened up the filter housing) and now the gear pump inside the VP44 is trying is trying to draw fuel from the fuel tank instead of being charged with fuel from the lift pump. I would start with the basics. Re-inspect your work and confirm that you have lift pump flow. If you need further help then you will need to let us know if there are fuel modifications on your truck and what those fuel modifications are. - John.

I have been told the opposite - that the six speed transmissions are stronger. I have a NV5600 with 320,000 miles on it and it has been trouble free and still operates like it is new. I tow frequently (12,500 - 17,000 lbs gross combined weight). The six speed does solve you "missing gear" problem. It seems to me that a six speed transmission and your 4:10 gears would be a great match for your towing and mountain grade issues. - John

I am having the same problem when I try to post. I put the same radiator in my truck last March, 13,000 miles ago. It seems to be doing its job well. Most of the miles have been towing throughout the summer months over lots of mountain grades. - John

Interesting. My radiator had the same failure at 309,000 miles. I guess we can't complain - that is a lot of trouble free miles. - John

If your hard starting truck is a '99 (as in the signature), then you will have better luck with help if you post in the 2nd Generation category. If the truck is hard starting when pointed uphill, then there is likely to be some fuel draining back to the tank while the truck is parked and not running. A small fuel leak can let air in, but not necessarily offer a visual fuel leak. Do you mean that you have to hold the key on for 10-15 seconds before the starter starts cranking? or do you mean the starter is cranking, but it is 10-15 seconds before the engine starts firing? This is an important clarification. Usually "turning over" means starter is cranking, but engine is not firing. - John

You're not hen-pecking the foremans, are you? - John

@Mopar1973Man, I think @Evanis referring to the 12 valve engine here. - John

I replaced my APPS with a Timbo (my truck has a manual transmission) and I seem to recall that there was a note about the Timbo not having an idle validation switch to control additional after-market devices, such as an exhaust brake. I don't know this for sure, but it is something that you may want to check out. - John

All turbos have some play when they are stationary. To correctly assess for excessive side to side movement, you would need to have one hand on the compressor wheel and the other hand on the turbine wheel and then move the shaft side to side without rocking it. Moving the shaft from only one end will give you misleading results because you are rocking the shaft like a teeter totter with the bearing being the fulcrum. My guess is that your turbo is fine if there are no witness marks showing contact of the shaft to the housing. I have 316,000 miles on the OEM turbo and it does not feel any different now then when it was new when I check for play. - John